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Panel Infill At Rear Of Side Panel/arch And Rear Shock Mount


magh

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As above how have people filled/ blocked the back of the side panel from water spraying into the cockpit of rear tyres and Im sure I read somewhere someone failed Iva on rear shock mount not having a tube welded in to prevent the chassis cruahing when bolt was tightened. Below are pics of each area in question. Thanks all.

 

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A piece of thick wall tube with bore a clearance on the bolt, turn in lathe ( or cut & file ) to make the length of tube equal the inside diameter of the roll bar tube. This can be held in position with a piece of plastic waste pipe that sides easily inside the suspension tube, drill hole in plastic to suit outside diameter of crush tube at same height as roll bar hole. Take photos when made & how it was fitted, worked on Florin & IVA man was pleased.

 

Opps --- the plastic tube should fit inside the suspension tube & the suspension tube should be a good fit inside the roll bar/tube.

Edited by florin metal works
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Yep i failed SVA on a lack of crush tube. I somehow tacked it into place. can't remember how. Doesn't need to be super strong weld just enough to stop it moving when you fit it.. I like Florin's solution too.

 

For the infill i made a cresent shape. The outer bit just touches the side panel. The inner part has an angle on it to attach it to the inner back panel. Doesn't seem to let water in, or if it does i haven't noticed and i've been in some pretty heavy downpours.

 

hth

 

- Thinking about it i probably used the stick welder as it would long enough to get down the tube and just catch it a bit

Edited by agent_zed
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The fixing bolt goes through the crush tube -- it's a good sliding fit in the roll bar the plastic tube is just to hold the crush tube in the correct place.

 

I made an error -- the plastic tube fits inside the suspension tube ( that fits inside the roll tube ) I found with Florin's build that the suspension tube supplied was a very slack fit in the roll bar/tube--- so I used a piece of prop-shaft tube from the old Sierra donor & welded a new bracket to the end. this tube was a good sliding fit , so good it needed greasing when pushed into the roll bar.

 

Trust that hasn't confused you even more --- the leg bone's attached to the knee bone etc etc

 

Post above has also been corrected.

Edited by florin metal works
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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest danny_samb

Sorry to hijack the post. On my 2b the coilover mount is not all the way into the roll bar tube it's out by an inch. This could be why I got such a big arch gap. Also how high have people got the coilovers set. I think mine are at a really long length so maybe needing winding in a couple of turns

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Ideally if you can take the spring off the shock you can then move the piston to the best position and set the rest up to match. I am no suspension expert so if i am talking rubbish please correct me but my thinking is... on the front of my car i have 3 inches of shock movement so i set it so i had 2 inches of travel upward and 1 inch droop when in a normal position. I am assuming the same 2:1 setup for the rear would be ok too. E.g if you have 6 inches of shock travel set it so you have 4 inches upward and 2 droop.

 

Once you know how much travel you have you can temporarily hold the piston in the correct place. If you stick a wheel on and lower it so you have ~7inches from the floor to the side panel the wishbone should be in the correct lower position. remove the wheel without altering the height. Stick the shock in with the height set to minus 2 inches (this should leave 4 inches of upward travel still available) and then adjust the top mount to fit. If you can't remove the spring you'll have to know what the shock travel is and then minus 1/3rd of the length. You can just a piece of wood to this length to set the top mount.

 

Once you set the car down on the spring it will obv sink down so you'll need to wind it up a bit to where the shock should sit, hopefully with a nice amount of space between the coils. You should now have the correct height so that the shock has enough movement to go up but also drop down when needed.

 

Hopefully my thinking is not complete nonsense and someone else can either correct or confirm.

 

hth

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Guest danny_samb

That's gave me something to look at. If measured the front and the rear chassis height. The front is 7 inch and the rear is 8.25 inch so deffinatley need to slide the coilover mount into the roll bar more as it's just over an inch from being all the way in. I would say I have an arch gap from the top of the tyre of about 6-7 inch so needs dropping a fair amount

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I'll have to measure the heights on my car but i think from memory people often say about 6-6.5 at the front and 7-7.5 at the rear.

On the front my lower wishbones are pretty much horizontal. I have 350lb springs though on the front which is 30lb harder than the green zimmerides.

If you don't have camber shims to correct camber and toe-in if you drop the rear too much you'll wear the inside of your tyres (like i did :) ). You'll also start catching the subframe mounts on road bumps (depending on how you fixed it on)

 

I have the sierra springs and shocks still so it's a little different on my car but i still have a top mount that slots into the rollbar tube. I have a couple of different holes where i got it wrong so drilled another. I would have to change holes to change ride height as no adjustment on my spring setup.

 

Because of the pivot points be careful not to adjust the top mount too much if you move it up an inch it will change the ride height by a fair amount more than an inch. If you can put some bits of tube/shims around the tube that slides in to get the correct height without having to drill the hole until you get it in the correct position. Also stick some glossy mags under the wheels so when you jack it down they can slide out to natural position or make sure you roll the car forward and back to settle the wheels. :)

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Guest danny_samb

I'll have to take a look. It looks like the coilover mount has a couple holes drilled in to adjust the height so shouldn't need to drill anymore. I'll see how far out the camber is once done.

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