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Hybrid Sub K


Guest Knoxy

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Guest Knoxy

New to building robin hood type kit cars as I've been building minis for the last 16 years. however I've always wanted a Westfield type kit so back in January when things in life changed an late night on eBay I became the owner of a robin hood rolling chassis.

 

After sending a couple of photos to GBS they confirmed that it was a sub k version. can I find any information on them....nope anyway.

after picking it up about 30 min's with battery drill the shabby steel panels were removed an shoved out the way. initially I was going ford route as I have a sierra diff and suspension fitted to the rear and front hubs.

 

after looking up various engine options I have settled on Mazda mx5 engine. couple of weeks back I bought an mot failure of an mx5. so the plan is to put the 1.8vvt engine gear box and now the rear sub frame diff and suspension in, removing the ford rear running gear.

 

Has anyone else fitted a Mazda to the older chassis? is there anything I should be looking out for?

 

wiring, steering column, seats, fuel tank etc have all been donated by the mx5 too

 

I know fitting the rear diff isn't going to be easy as I will either end up with mazda - ford shafts or I will be virtually cutting the rear end out and fitting the mx5 rear subframe and suspension.

 

I will upload some pics once I've taken them off my phone.

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SubK (later 2b/04) was, as far as I am aware, just a variant of he 2b with a different front suspension setup.

 

Personally id just keep the complete ford rear end and fit the mx5 engine and box with an suitable custom propshaft.

Edited by theduck
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Guest Knoxy

I'm currently weighing up the options. The ford diff is unknown, I will be having to strip it out and find its ratio plus overhaul it. The Mazda diff to fit yes will be alot more work but it would mean i have an lsd and rear disc set up off the Mazda if I use the rear subframe and suspension.

 

Decisions decisions.

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You dont need to strip the diiff to find its ratio.

If it has a tag, there is a code that defines the ratio.

Or just lock one of the driveshaft hubs, turn the other one 2 exact turns,

and count the number of times the propshaft hub turns.

Most common diffs are 3.62 and 3.92, so just over 3 &1/2, or just under 4 will provide the answer.

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Sierra diffs are pretty tough, as is the whole backend running gear and it all works pretty well. The drums are also fine for use and much less trouble than changing to sierra discs or MX5 items. Sierra viscous LSDs are available and work well. They may be a little tired but it's a much lighter car than the sierra so detuned by wear to match its new installation. Add in decambering wedges and the rear will work well for very little work or expense. (After market LSDs are also available.)

All sierra diffs have their ratio on the crownwheel in white paint so easily read if you take off the cover. Mines a 3.62 LSD.

post-21-0-70797800-1524577586_thumb.jpg

Edited by Longboarder
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Guest Knoxy

thanks longboarder,

 

looks like I may now have raise a few more pennies being able to sell diff and rear suspension from the mx5 then ^_^ and leave what's in there alone.

 

think I have most of the main items for the build, its then mainly body work that that I need to figure out such as the cockpit foot well panelling I think its pretty much self explanatory. although if anyone has a measurement for how far back their pedal box is from a common point on the chassis that would be great give me a starting point for fitting mine.

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Guest Knoxy

Well I've liberated the engine and box from the donor mx5 and it's now sat in then hood chassis.

 

It's amazing how much further along it looks with an engine in rather than just a rolling chassis.

 

Now to fab some mounts up and make it permanent.

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