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Zetec Rattle


nelmo

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Most starters (in the olden days) had two long screws which hold/clamp the end plates onto the central body. Usually the slotted screw heads are on the 'free' end and the screw threads into the plate at the bellhousing end. They should be very tight. Impact screwdriver often needed to undo them. Loose is 'not right'! Tight as you can.

post-21-0-08023200-1532425611_thumb.jpg

Edited by Longboarder
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Well, the saga continues... :(

 

My starter motor is a Lucas one - there were no visible nuts to tighten and the only bolt heads were rock solid (I've also since spoken to a Ford mechanic who doesn't think the rattle is the starter motor).

 

So, yes, after putting it all back together, my rattle is still there :( :( :( - the guy at Ford said it sounded mechanical/internal to the engine but also suggested it might be knock. However, I called a RR tuner and he said that if the rattle is there with no load ie. just revving at standstill (yes, it is), the issue can't be timing/tuning, it must be mechanical.

 

After a YouTube session, I've got 2 things to test:

 

1. Oil pressure - pretty sure it's ok but I've ordered a gauge to check it.

2. Remove spark plugs one at a time - if sound goes away on one cylinder, then it's a problem with that piston/big end.

 

I'm expecting these 2 tests to be fine (had the sump off, nothing was loose) - after that, rocker cover off and check valve clearances and...er...other stuff in there?

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You know when you took the sump off did you check the bearings and could it not be a bent rod? Does the noise speed up when you rev

 

Wiggled them by hand - no movement. Looking on YT, any bad bearings are very obvious. Not sure about rod...?

 

Just put it back together and use it. If it's anything serious it'll go bang and you can fix it over the Winter - at least that way you'll be getting some use out of it.

I was thinking about doing just that - glad someone else suggested it . Only problem is it sounds horrible...

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Just put it back together and use it. If it's anything serious it'll go bang and you can fix it over the Winter - at least that way you'll be getting some use out of it.

Having a super spec I'm used to a rattle or 2 !!. As richey said use it till it goes wrong and get the use in the summer while it lasts

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What about a bent valve I hate to say it but I think your going to have to take the head off

According to internet, bent valve symptoms:

 

1. lack of power

2. sputtering/popping/coughing exhaust note

3. engine will will visibly shake/stutter at idle

4. it will want to stall with timing set right

5. increased oil consumption (valve seal may break on that valve)

6. uneven compression at idle/ low compression in one or more cyl

 

I may have slightly lower power but using a lambda sensor now which should be leaning off the previously rich tune?

 

Exhaust does pop a bit when lifting off and it does want to stall when pulling away (have to use more throttle than before - lambda again?) but idle is fine and symptoms don't mention a rattle which is the most obvious symptom I have. Dunno about 5 and 6...compression tester ordered.

Edited by nelmo
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At first I was going to suggest a small-end bearing may be the cause but couldn't see how it could be on a low mileage engine. But then looked at the sump pickup photo. If it were my engine I would be concerned that it had insufficient oil flow/pressure because of the pickup clearance issue and that would cause all sorts of problems.

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Given everything else that has been checked/replaced, I agree with Bob (CB750).

It could well have been starved of oil, & knackered the mains & big ends and the small ends.

Best to get an oil pressure gauge (a proper capillary one, not an electronic one)

& see what the pressure really is.

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