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Rh Suspension Upgrades? Ditching Sierra Rear Arms?

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Front look like Spax, yellow with small slotted adjuster screw.

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Nothing wrong with Spax. Might be worth spraying the adjuster with some penetrating oil before you start fiddling with them.

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2 things to check on the rear. Tyre pressure (which you already mentioned) should be 20psi or there abouts. I put 30psi in once and it was really bouncy and rather dangerous.

 

The other thing is how low the builder set the suspension. The sierra setup gets more toe-in and more negative camber as it gets lower. If you set it too low you have too much toe-in and it skips all over the place.

 

Building a double wishbone rear end is on my list of things to do but still haven't got around to it yet. There is a thread on here where we discussed ideas, I'll see if i can find it.

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That would be really good if you can. Im wanting to see the Robin Hood rear end stripped down so I can get a clearer idea of the chassis/fab work involved to ale this work.

Thank you 👍🏻

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found it http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=44187&hl=%2Brear+%2Bsuspension&do=findComment&comment=358486we didn't go into too much detail.

 

my thinking was to use the 'build your own sportscar' plans to build a subframe that would replace the ford sierra subframe, but with a few more pickup points.

 

On the 2b the sierra subframe mounts using the original subframe outer arm mounts, outer wishbone bolts and the diff rear mounting bolt. I plan (one day) to build the diff cage and wishbones as per the book plans and then custom fabricate 2 lower arms to mount where the current subframe rubber mount goes, 2 arms backwards picking up more of the chassis tubes, and 2 arms upwards into the rollbar tube to also take the upper shock mounts.

 

The main problem is the rollbar is not inline with the hub so i have yet to work out how to secure the upper suspension mount, unless i build a frame across but i don't want to take up too much space in the boot.

 

is it worth it? don't know but it's more about the experience for me. :)

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In my head I know I should sell and put the money into a better chassis but Im here now and with the right work in the right place this can be good no doubt 😁

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Inboard shocks on a square frame chassis doesnt look like any Robin Hood I know

What car is it?

 

Essex Kit Car Club is near you, get in touch on Facebook

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Front spax look same as mine. They had 180lb springs and changed to 120lb. Only had a short drive but it made a massive immediately noticeable improvement.

 

As snapperpaul says though, from what we can see it doesnt look stock, though I am thinking its a modified setup that replicates the original.

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Not want to steal you topic, and if I need to make my own, no problem.
I also want to upgrade my suspension front and rear. I think it's original now, all adjustable (at one time) but all rusted up and drives hard. I would like a bit more relaxing ride, and I would like the car a bit lower..
Any info on what set I need to buy, what load springs etc?? Robin Hood S3a with inboard coil overs, rear are also coilovers.

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Front is stiff due to antiroll bar, change to tie bars and reduce springs to 130lb

Rears can stay at 180lb

Original shocks were motor bike shocks with coil over collars put on them, changing to adjustable coil overs such as Gaz improved mine no end

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Thanks.. Where can I find sizes and measures for the Tie bar conversion? I would like to do this.

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