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Wilksy

Wishbone Conversion - Advice & Help Please

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Members Help Please

I'm just bucking up courage to attack the beast with a grinder to convert the sliding pillar to wishbones. I dare say I'm not the first.

I've gathered the following materials together to undertake the work myself:- Mk5 Cortina Front Hubs and 304 stl st 50mm sq tube for cross members, general stainless for gussets/ brackets etc + panel sheet, I also have a good set of tools and Tig / Mig Welders

Has anyone personally undertaken wishbone conversion either from scratch or from a proprietary kit?

I'm now retired so time is no longer a constraint, though want to complete the beast this year.

I'm' looking for guidance on set up dimensions and wishbone tube diameter / section thickness as well as Pitfalls to avoid

I'm also a little unsure as to top & bottom ball joints - whether to go with Rose joints or Ford / Makers assemblies - any advice

I'm looking to aim for 5 deg Castor and 3 deg Neg Camber with a road height around 130mm. Rear end is Standard Sierra with no camber change.

Ideally it would be good to view finished or nearly finished wishbone conversion, I would travel a reasonable distance

Hope to hear from anyone who can help

Wilksy

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I know it may not be totally helpful but my Kit is a Westfield chassis and suspension. If you need any dimensions to get the geometry fix let me know what is required and I will try to help. Westfield chassis is made from 25mm square tube but axis points should be ok and is a double wishbone set up.. However I will not be able to help on upright details as I am using Cosworth units which have different dimensions to either Sierra or Cortina versions, having a greater caster angle amongst other variations. Shhh don't tell Westfield🤪

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I can't contribute much but I would ask/question where you got 3deg of negative camber from, because that sounds like a LOT 😮 !?

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Steamer / red7  converted mine with a replacement front end from a converted chassis for me .he maybe able to help

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Gents,

Thanks for responses, much appreciated.

Mark B, thanks I've looked at the kit, its a bit pricey for me and requires a fair amount of work to fit anyway, however as a geriatric  masochist with plenty of time on my hands I'll have a go freelance.

Mr Toad, Thanks but I think its a bit far off piste at present

Brumpster, You're probably right,  other members whats the general consensus of opinion for front end camber  - power block is a 2l Pinto

Maccavvy, Thanks for the information.

Wilksy

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Hi, Quite agree, would be quite a task.

Normal road use setting is .5 to 1 degree negative front and rear camber. The only real reason to increase this is for track or special use. The extreme of this was long time ago when Mini Rod racing on circular tracks we set the inside wheel to 0 and the outside wheel 3 to 5 degrees negative - not scientific though as adjustment was by sledge hammer!

My reference book that I could not do without is the Haynes publication - Build Your Own Sports Car On A Budget by Chris Gibbs. Chapter 5 shows full details about constructing wishbone suspension sizes, materials, and how to construct. I would strongly suggest you get hold of a copy  as it really is essential reading.

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Mr Toad,

Thanks, the thought had been going through my mind, I had the previous book initial edition "Sports Car for £250" by a guy called Champion, but for the life of me can't find it - A trip to the library I think

Will revise camber design to 1 deg.

Wilksy

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You should make the upper wishbone ball joint adjustable.

Most use a transit drag link. Either thread the w/b to take the threaded part, but that

means you can only adjust by one thread turn at a time, which has been OK for me,

or use a close fitting tube, and fit a lock nut on either side. I'll look for piccies to explain further

HTH

PS when designing the upper wishbone, be aware that the dummy strut sits at a considerable -ve camber angle. Set the tube taking the transit ball joint at 90 degrees to it otherwise when the suspension drops it will  jam the ball joint at full movement putting a huge strain on it.

PPS an Astra bottom ball joint is an easy fit with 3 bolts to attach it to the w/b & the same taper as the Sierra hub

Edited by Bob Tucker

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Bob,

Many thanks, most helpful details.

Looks like I should also increase ride height from 130mm to 160mm, it evidently works for them on road going cars.

Wilksy

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I wouldny worry too much about exact measurements for height at the front.

The important thing is to make sure you have adequate sump clearance, esp. with a pinto as the sump can hang really low.

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If got photos of a sliding pillar to wishbone conversion which I can transfer by Dropbox, we transfer or burn to disc

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Snapperpaul,

That would be a great help, 

If you let me have the dropbox ref I'd be grateful - e mail John_v_wilks@yahoo.co.uk. Could let me know if it was a Freelance conversion or Kit 

Thanks

Wilksy

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