Jump to content
johnhetherington

Zetec Overheating

Recommended Posts

Had my 2B Plus SORN for the winter and beginning of April got it back on the road. First run it overheated, silly me didn't check the coolant level. Topped it up and again it overheated and boiled over. Thought it was the thermostat so put in a new one but still the same problem Also the fan is now not kicking in at 90 C as it was before but nearer 100C.

The set up is a 1993 Ford Zetec Silvertop 2.0 l with a raceline water rail, thermostat at 88 C  Fan at 90C.

It has been running perfectly for the last 1500 miles so it is not as though I have plumbed it wrong.

Any suggestions please.

Thanks

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you might have an airlock, can you let it idle with the rad cap off  and see if it will purge any air out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

I feel for you, I've had this, and its a real pain.

top tops I have learned

1. Drill a hole in the thermostat - it allows a little bypass

2. Take a hose off at the back of the engine and fill up  the cooling system 'behind' the thermostat, afterwards, resecure that hose and fill the rest normally 

3. Make sure the water level in the tank is as high as the top of the head coolant gallery

Hope it helps

 

Edited by Fossett

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Basic problem is the water rail. Designed to took good but ignores the problems remote thermostats bring and the install instructions do not suggest using a header tank (or they didn't when I bought one years ago). Having the stat 9inches down a blind tube with no flow is not a great plan so you have to create flow. Hole drilled in the fixed part of the stat and I would suggest 5mm diameter is the best solution. Fill, run up to temperature and keep topping up as you run the engine with occasional rev-ups for 10 minutes. Addition of a header tank is also a good thing. If it doesn't self bleed air under these circumstances the cooling system has other flaws.

The raceline rail is much better designed, cheaper but not so blingy. The original stat housing works perfectly and the raceline one saves less than an inch of space in comparison. (My blacktop stat housing cannot be removed with the engine in situ but I can change the stat in situ.)

Edited by Longboarder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Checked but no air lock, was still puzzled as to why it has behaved for the last 1500 miles, then the suggestions to drill a hole in the thermostat made me think. Checked the original thermostat and I had drilled a hole in it but not in the new one which was still fitted. So I took it out drilled a hole and hey presto all working again as before.

Many thanks for all your prompt and accurate advice.

Happy now

Thanks again

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

To be honest I wouldn’t bother with a thermostat I’ve never had a problem on my zetec 

I have to disagree with you there. Thermostats are simple and amazingly effective devices that have been around for a hundred years and remain the cheapest most effective and efficient way of maintaining the engines operating temperature within relatively narrow parameters. The design of the cooling system is also important to avoid air locks and allow proper flow of coolant. The thermostat flow control also allows the fitting of a radiator with sufficient heat exchange capacity to cool in hot weather when driving hard without over cooling in subzero winter days. I wouldn't want to drive without one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×