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fed up


kelvinnoel

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following on from my last post about clutch problems i decided to change the clutch assembly ,I got the car up on ramps and axel stands at the rear only to find that the floor pan has been welded ,so the gear box carn,t be slid back to get to the clutch ,so the engine need s to come out ,not easy when you don,t have lifting gear ,thing is the clutch looks almost new no oil on it in fact it has a little rust on it so its dry ,I am at a loss as to why it won,t disengage ,well half the time i got it on the ramps with no trouble .I am at a LOSS at the moment ,maybe i wil loosen it off while in place and blow out any crap with the compressor never know i could work .rant over i,ll try it tomorrow

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Rant number 2 on our way to the caravan for a few days and a prat in a jag 4x4 decides he needs to be over the white line to overtake a parked car and hits my door mirror smashing that and the drivers side window and just keeps going .I can,t remember breaking a mirror lately rant over

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  • 1 month later...

Finally I have got a working clutch (admitedly we have had 2 holidays inbetween and i have had major problems with my kia but thats for another forum) it turns out the heat from the exhaust had melted the plastic sheeth on the cable and blocked the cable running free,so out it went and a new one fitted but its over long ,the rprevious owner had split a piece of wood to space it off ,I AM not quite that much of a cowboy ,so i,ve made a bracket and sleeve to fit the cable and hey presto a working car ,now i need to give her a good clean down and polish and the open road here we come ,but not today its too warm and i,m tired with a capitol "F"

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Why not purchase an adjustable clutch cable (Escort), fix the quadrant permanently to the clutch cable and do away with the auto adjustment. Having said that my auto adjuster worked just fine and always did (once I worked out how it was supposed to work). It is worth wrapping insulating sleeve round the clutch cable and further binding it in copper wire for heat protection.

Escort cable is

DSCN0749.jpg

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You can get thermally insulating and heat reflective sleeving covers that can be applied with the cable in situ. Randomly selected example below -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Retrofit-Aluminium-Fiberglass-Heat-Reflective-Sleeving-With-Adhesive-Strip-10mm/263832835660?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563188448403&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

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I used the following from eBay as it’s got Velcro on so wraps around and holds itself in place and has worked great even with my clutch cable running through the middle of the manifold. On my winter list to change for a longer cable just for piece of mind really. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-75mm-Heat-Shield-Shroud-Aluminized-Line-Sleeving-THERMO-SLEEVE-EXPRESS/152499888003?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D2f79ab2f2f524dbbbdf0124e781d5a68%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D263832835660%26itm%3D152499888003%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

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Forgive me if you have already done/tried these things but have you tried a larger quadrant? the standard yellow is 45mm I think. Then there is a 50 and a 55 from memory. 

The longer cosworth cable needs even more pull as there is more slack.

I modded (bodged) mine by ramming some cable down the gully to pack it out thus increasing the radius to approx 50mm. This still wasn't quite enough when i switched to the cosworth cable and i realised it was because there is a rubber piece on the pedal box end that i assume is to take out some of the shock. It is too squidgy though. I found that an old bush off the front suspension fitted almost perfectly with a light sanding and takes out that extra movement.

job done and i can now put it in reverse when it's warm, which was my issue. 

 

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