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Electric water pump


Guest MrToad

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Guest MrToad

Hi,

I need to source an electric water pump for my radiator system as my radiators are remotely sited down the side of the chassis. 

Everything is running fine and temperature is well under control however when I stop the ecu continues the fan going until the engine has cooled to 82 degrees(quite a long time), as the radiators are off to the side they get cool very quickly but the engine remains hot. Engine is Cosworth YB with T3 turbo and large intercooler taking the position in the front so I don't really want to fit a front fan.

Has anyone any recommendations of a pump that will fit in the main hose whilst keeping the mechanical unit?

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Will watch this with interest. I am casually interested in fitting an electric pump for post-cooling, not something I urgently need but a future enhancement I fancy doing. However given their proliferaiton in production cars now, I'm loathe to spend big bucks on a Davies Craig thing when I can probably half-inch one from a production car :)

 

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From what I know of K-Series discussions, the Craig Davies are popular just for convenience/ease because the "80" model pump fits the hoses easily.

Me, I'm thinking something like a Bosch auxiliary pump (candidate cars include VW VR6-powered cars ie. golf, corrado) that I can put on a simple post-ignition timer, one I can trigger myself with a button (probably a circuit I'd make myself to be honest) that can simply run the pump on for 5 minutes or so. I'm not fussed for having the fan still going, I really just want to circulate water around the block for a bit, but I appreciate for you you might still need the fan ;)

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I have used one of these for my chargecooler setup https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BHKW92Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I remember correctly, the impeller will free spin  when not in use, so you could fit in-line and use one of those cheap ebay turbo timers to turn it on when you turn ignition off and have it run for a set period of time,  but also have the option to manually turn it off should you wish.

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5 hours ago, brumster said:

From what I know of K-Series discussions, the Craig Davies are popular just for convenience/ease because the "80" model pump fits the hoses easily.

Me, I'm thinking something like a Bosch auxiliary pump (candidate cars include VW VR6-powered cars ie. golf, corrado) that I can put on a simple post-ignition timer, one I can trigger myself with a button (probably a circuit I'd make myself to be honest) that can simply run the pump on for 5 minutes or so. I'm not fussed for having the fan still going, I really just want to circulate water around the block for a bit, but I appreciate for you you might still need the fan ;)

I have exactly this on my K-Series buggy, it's the auxiliary water pump off an Audi-TT like this one Fleecebay it's on a bought adjustable time board which when the ignition switches off makes the pump run for 5 minutes, the only issue I had was the timer worked the wrong way around & made on power off, I just added an extra relay. On the K-Series there is a pipe with a 90 bend just under the senders, all I did was cut the 90 off & join each side of the pump. But whether it will do what the OP wants not too sure 19mm hose just fits nicely

20150412_113227_small.jpg

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Hi the davis Craig ones are great  

I just sold two complete ewp 80 kits with controllers  on ebay  that were sitting in the garage for a while  

I had one on the zero but removed the impeller from the water pump  Temp stayed rock sold and after you turn it off the pump run for a couple of mins 

It was fit and forget 

 

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Guest Phill Blundell

Hi, if your looking for something with smaller hoses my 04 Mercedes Sprinter had a aux heater that had a separate pump in-line into the heater hoses. Should be plenty of them in breakers yards by now and I would think it would give enough circulation to cool a non running engine. 

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Guest MrToad

Thank you all for your input I will have to do some investigations. The problem with the OEM pumps is finding out the hose diameter, I suppose a trip to a breakers is the ideal solution.

theduck - thanks for this info, what size are the hose tails? I'd like to insert it into the bottom hose which is 32mm.

My system is automatically set for the sensor to keep the fan going until under 82 degrees, I have this sensor in the hose close to the thermostat, I have been advised by another mechanic that it would be better in the bottom hose but I have had other advise otherwise🙃.

I have fitted a smaller Craig Davies 16mm pump into the system and although I have it on the turbo circuit it bypasses the main system not affecting the cooling of the fan.

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I would say without fail you want to be measuring the temperature of the water as close to the output from the cylinder head/engine as possible, that way you're getting a figure of what the temperature of the water in the engine is (which is surely what you're really interested in?)!

Granted a short run to the bottom of the radiator isn't going to lose much but... well, why bother? Must be a reason most manufacturers put their senders where they do :) all those millions spent on R&D!?

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Have a friend with an A series who had issues after a blast then stopping the engine would boil on heat soak, he didn't want to put the electric pump in the normal pipes in case they restrict the flow so he put 2x tees in into the circuit & put the pump on the branched tee.

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Guest MrToad

Hi phaeton, I was wondering if this way as well. So your friend fitted with effectively a lay-by, however wouldn't the flow take the route of least resistance? I'm so paranoid about affecting the flows on what is a complex system that seems otherwise to be working well and I'm loath to fit a non return valve with their restrictions and failure record.

I have fitted a Davies Craig pump in the cooling line from the header tank(directly fed from the turbo) and this then feeds through a small non fan radiator back to the bottom hose but it's not reducing the cooling time, I think it's following the route of least resistance back through the main pump and through the turbo again.

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I think this is where the diameter of the hoses comes into play; during normal operation of the main water pump, water will indeed take the path of least resistance which will be the larger-diameter main coolant pipes, not the smaller auxiliary circuit that's tee'd off it using much smaller diameter hoses. Sure, a very small percentage of flow may go down there, but if correctly done it shouldn't be significant. Of course, "if correctly done" is easier to say than execute :)

 

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