How do you get to the prop?

[Guest JabawokJayUK]

I have a 2B, its been carpeted inside so I know I am going to have to cut some of that out, but how does the tunnel cover bolt in and is that the best way to get to the prop and gearbox mounts? I have developed some wobble / movement (circa 1" of up/down travel) on the gearstick so I think a rubber mount has failed on the back end of the box.

Pictures appreciated!

[Derek]

Best way to get at the prop shaft is from underneath.

If its the Ford type 9, the gearbox mount is at the rear of the box really only accessible from underneath.

To replace the gearbox mount the prop shaft does not have to be removed.

To remove the prop shaft, the floor at the front of the diff has to be cut away.

It is this part of the floor that is in the way to allow the prop shaft to be lowered sufficiently to clear the front of the diff once it has been unbolted.

The gearbox end slides out on a splined shaft at the back of the gearbox.

 

Edited July 27, 2019 by Derek

[Guest JabawokJayUK]

Thanks Derek. So the best option is to cut through from below? I take it I am going to compromise the floor mount in some way and as such will need to bolt / secure it better?  I see the tunnel top bolts through the floor either side of the cockpit as I have already used these bolts to add some side to side structural reinforcement (25mm angle iron). Are these the only points that secure the floor in the centre or is it welded to the bottom of the chassis members where the tunnel bottom is?

What I am trying to understand before I take a grinder to the area is the compromise to the structure of the floor and what options may exist to regain that structural integrity once the tunnel bottom has been cut out. I am happy to cut and make some access panels to replace the cut away floor under the car afterwards, but that will not add much in the way of structural support.

Thoughts?

[agent_zed]

Have a look at derek's pics again. You don't need to cut out the entire piece front to back to remove the prop. Just the bit in the second photo Derek has marked in red, which as he says is just the bare minimum to allow the prop to drop below the diff. I'd just remove the diff flange bolts and see where the prop drops to and remove a bit at a time until the prop clears.

This small piece is unlikely to reduce integrity as there should still be a bar across that holds the handbrake cables which you can see in the first pic.

Or if you have any oil leaks on the diff use it as a time to remove the diff at the same time then you won't have to cut any of the floor. It's not a huge job. You just need to take off one brake drum and remove the drive shaft on one side. Then you can drop the diff and slide off the other drive shaft.

Depending on how the builder mounted the gearbox at the rear that should hopefully be just a case of unbolting the mount and replacing. The mount bolts to the chassis.

It's unlikely the builder welded the floor to the chassis but you never know.

Whilst you are at it give the UJ's a good greasing.