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superspec ignition coil


wanderer
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Help with wiring required  on the old type coil with plus and minus poles minus comes from ecu via rev counter plus has two wires one ignition live can anyone tell me where the other wire goes to as mines come adrift and cant get a spark thanks in advance

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Hi Ivan

My +ve coil connections has 3 wires!!, I know that 1 is ignition and another 1 goes to a fuse and if I take the fuse out car turns but wont start, and the other +ve wire disappears in to the snakes nest!!

So maybe look for a fuse with a wire missing

Im sure someone else may have a more definitive answer

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I just checked the wiring diagram (the original one) and it shows the -ve wire goes to Pin 25 on the ECU (Ignition ) and the +ve wire (via a 10A fuse) to Pin 11 on the ECU (ignition sensing) and the second +ve wire just plugs into the engine loom with no indication of what that represents, but I assume it is simply an ignition switched live.   No sign of a 3rd one.

Also checked AndyW's wiring diagram and he shows the same, with the added extra that the -ve wire also goes to the tacho.   We know from historical posts that there were 2 different marks of Escort instrument panel and RHE issued an addendum to the wiring that changed the wiring to the tacho.

So it's all a bit of a mess.    I would still like to see a MEMSScan logfile while you crank the engine just in case it shows anything obvious.

Have you tried just feeding the +ve side with a 12V supply direct from the battery ?

Later:   Thinking more about it, if you are getting 12V on the positive terminal then the answer if probably that the fuse on the wire leading to Pin 25 has blown.   So the ECU is not sensing the ignition has turned on and so does not provide the spark. (As Graeme suggested)

Edited by alanrichey
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when i turn the ignition on and use a test light i have power at pin 25, my pin 11 goes to a type of connector and i dont think its ever been connected but just connected it and now have spark but engine still wont start will have to get a compression tester next week and see what that shows will email MEMSScan

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35 minutes ago, AndyW said:

Hi Ivan, according to my Rover T16 docs...

image.png.8baab8e8fd957b0a5b5c00bb216f53eb.png

Thanks Andy mine reads 1.383 thats with sensor out of car, due to fact i dont really know what ive done next step is a compression test should have tester delivered today if i understand it, it has a 10:1 ratio which i think is 147 psi do you know if this is correct thanks

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Yes it does have a 10:1 ratio, but I've read that the compression on the T16 non-turbo engine should be around 170-180 psi.  When I checked mine a couple of years ago I consistently got 240-250 psi, so don't know if my gauge was duff or what, although I did later find I had a lot of carbon build up.

When you run the tests, clamp off the fuel hose or remove the fuel pump fuse, remove all 4 plugs, and crank with the throttle fully open until you get a stable reading.  You're really looking for cylinders that are different from the others rather than absolute values.

 

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On 9/25/2019 at 12:47 PM, AndyW said:

Yes it does have a 10:1 ratio, but I've read that the compression on the T16 non-turbo engine should be around 170-180 psi.  When I checked mine a couple of years ago I consistently got 240-250 psi, so don't know if my gauge was duff or what, although I did later find I had a lot of carbon build up.

When you run the tests, clamp off the fuel hose or remove the fuel pump fuse, remove all 4 plugs, and crank with the throttle fully open until you get a stable reading.  You're really looking for cylinders that are different from the others rather than absolute values.

 

done compression test not good will have to take engine out

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Oh dear! What readings did you get?

You don’t need to take the engine out yet. On the T16 engine it’s fairly easy to undo the inlet and exhaust manifolds from the head intact, then able to take the cams and head off, leaving the block in the car. You can then see whether the problem is with the valves in the head or the pistons in the block.

Been there, done that (twice now!)  I’ve got Rover’s engine overhaul instructions if you need them. 

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6 minutes ago, AndyW said:

Oh dear! What readings did you get?

You don’t need to take the engine out yet. On the T16 engine it’s fairly easy to undo the inlet and exhaust manifolds from the head intact, then able to take the cams and head off, leaving the block in the car. You can then see whether the problem is with the valves in the head or the pistons in the block.

Been there, done that (twice now!)  I’ve got Rover’s engine overhaul instructions if you need them. 

thanks will have a look on a cold engine 45 30 60 75  dry and 110 65 75 100 wet test if your instructions are easier to understand than workshop manual they would be greatly appreciated thanks

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