Fuel Tank Leak

[CAF]

My car has been off the road for 6 months, so I thought it was time I should think about getting her back on the road again (inline with the corona virus rules, shopping only). First I had a leak to the carburettor, so I fitted a new fuel pipe, OK now. Then when around the car with the engine running I noticed a fuel leak at the rear of the car, seem to be running down the tank. I have not yet investigated further due to weather and as I did not build the car am not sure what I should be looking for. The car is a Robin Hood S7 and was built in 1997, I had a look in the manual supplied with car, but that does not say more than couple of paragraphs about the fuel tank . Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[kevin the chicken]

Probably from the fuel sender/ pick up at the top of the tank. Mine still had the sierra unit so yours may have too. Have to pull the boot out or drop the tank. My builder had thoughtfully left a little inspection cover so it was easy. If it happens after the car has been moved it could be the seal at the top when the fuel sloshes about.

[CAF]

Thanks I will investigate further.

[brumster]

Agreed, if it happens without the car moving it might be that the hose has perished where it connects onto the sender/pickup/return and is just leaking...

[CAF]

Having now unbuilt the rear of the car to get to the fuel tank, I can see that the fuel sender/ pick up pipe is where the leak is coming from. The weld/solder is not sealing the pipe to the top of the unit, it appears that when the guy built this car 1997, he also had that problem and sealed it with a silicon type material, which I am sure was not the right solution , but it last a few years! Could anybody suggest a suitable solution, I really do not want to have to take the unit out as I am sure that will then cause further problems, which are nor easily solved in our current Corvid-19 situation. Please see attached photo, thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[fry61]

If you decide to remove it -- ( & why not -- high days & holidays are a long way off )  the solution maybe to replace the pipes with compression joints ( 8 mm elbow ) silver soldered to the plate & just a short stub of 8 mm tube from elbow to flexi-hose.

Working for a fix in situ will not work with that amount of gunge/rust arround the leak.

Araldite may be another way if hot work is a problem, but for sure a larger contact area between fitting & plate would make it stronger.

Edited April 5, 2020 by fry61
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[CAF]

Thanks for your suggestions, I think a plate Araldited to top with a hole the size of the pipe could be the best solution?

[Bob Tucker]

If you can clean it right up, i've had very good results in similar situations with JB Weld

[CAF]

Thanks Bob JB Weld worked great .