Coolant flow

[Mrbarry]

I have done a fair bit of work to the zero lately, added strength to the peddle box surround to make sure the throttle cable doesn’t flex it, fitted a oil catch can, re-routed some wiring and spotted an oil leak whilst I was doing it so fixed that (new CAS seal), adjusted the aux belt so it doesn’t scream on cold start, re trim of the interior and decided to make all new stronger tins whilst I was on, re packed the exhaust, did a compression check and got 160, 163, 161, 161 so very happy with that, re gapped the plugs whilst they was out from 0.75mm to 1mm and cold start is now much better. 
Next on my list is to fit a header tank and swirl pot for the coolant system on the bulk head. The idea being it will be at the highest point to remove any air bubbles via the swirl pot and push them into a built in header tank. The filler cap will be integrated into the swirl pot to make it easier to access and fill/check. I have a few things I’d like to answer first tho. 
does anyone have a good diagram of coolant flow for a 1800cc Mazda NA engine? I am undecided weather to leave the heater tails looped together as they are or block them off. In reality when a heater was fitted in the factory car you turn the heater off via a slider knob thus blocking these pipes. This will force more flow thru the front main radiator. With no heater matrix fitted you won’t be removing heat when the water flows thru that pipe but flow thru the main rad still reduces. Thoughts???

Edited June 13, 2020 by Mrbarry