Best breather set, up 2.0l pinto

[Kevxathome@gmail.com]

Ive removed the red part...doesnt look like a pcv.

[IanS]

If alternator is tested good then charging circuit will be at fault.

Check resistance from alternator body to battery negative it should be 0ohms.

As car starts there is a good earth connection to the starter but the alternator mount might have paint / rust preventing a good earth connection to the engine.

 

12V 55A alternator should be good for the simple electrics our cars have

Edited August 22, 2020 by IanS
add info

[Peter Bell]

Re your red bit, looks like it’s been modified, I suggest the upper hose goes to a catch can, possibly the lower was supposed to be a return from the can but as it will be slightly pressurised when running it wouldn’t work. Try blocking off the lower connection. Make sure your catch can has a decent breather on it. 
This hopefully is a link to Dave Andrews site it has loads of useful info and this may be the oil breathing bit! http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/wateroil.htm

[Kevxathome@gmail.com]

Cheers for the link Peter. Ill get onnit when kids are down!

[Snapperpaul]

You need to take the PCV off as it only works with manifold vacuum.

the catch tank should be baffled with wire wool in and have a separate filter outlet or vented cap.

you run a pipe from the crank case to the tank and another from rocket cover vented cap to second catch tank inlet or out of the rocker cover itself.

i run 16mm outlets and pipes.

another system is to run the crankcase breather to the rocker cover and run a second outlet from the rocker cover to the catch tank to reduces oil loss.

on later blocks there is a plug into the crank case on the right hand side that can be used as an oil return or a second crank case breather
 

I have learned this by painful experience and a lot of trial and error

[Kevxathome@gmail.com]

Oh its been a long few weeks. Car is sorn and officially off the road for winter. With so many variables i decided to strip the engine down, inlet and exhaust manifolds off cylinder  head off i got a compression test and got front to back 175, 150, 45 and 25 psi. and ive got visual damage on a piston and im sure rings will be done in too. I am however stuck. The sump bolts are all out but im struggling to get it off. Its a cork gasket but the whole thing is locked on. Any pointers?? Am i missing something? Thanks in advance.

[nelmo]

I had a nightmare getting my sump off (Zetec and ERA sump). Turned out my windage tray was too close to the wall of the sump and as I pushed down,  the tray dug further into the wall of the sump in one corner. In the end,  I had to drill a hole in the bottom of the sump and use a screwdriver to lever the tray off the wall!

[Kevxathome@gmail.com]

Nightmare. Its a cork gasget looking at it but i think its been bonded with some kind off adhesive! All bolts were pretty easy too come out i expected the sump to drop off haha. Im cutting away with a stanley blade. Prob going to take a week cpl hours a night! Cheers Nelmo.

[Kevxathome@gmail.com]

On 9/29/2020 at 11:26 PM, nelmo said:

I had a nightmare getting my sump off (Zetec and ERA sump). Turned out my windage tray was too close to the wall of the sump and as I pushed down,  the tray dug further into the wall of the sump in one corner. In the end,  I had to drill a hole in the bottom of the sump and use a screwdriver to lever the tray off the wall!

Sump popped off. Stanley blade 1/3 of the way round...couple of leaver softly applying pressure as i went and heard it go. Thank goodness.