Strange noise - Clutch/Type 9

[peter_m7uk]

My Robin Hood is running a 2.0i Pinto with Type 9 box.    I'm finding that everything is fine and smooth when cold and warming up, but once hot, the gearchange can become notchy and releasing the clutch makes a worrying clunk!

When I'm changing gear after about 20-25 mins of driving (nice and hot), it decides to clunk, particularly from 1st-to-2nd and 2nd-to-3rd.   If I stop the car, put it in neutral with engine running and move the clutch pedal in and out, there's a clunk when I release the pedal.  With the engine off, no clunk.

It seems strange that the problem takes so long to appear, so it seems heat-related.  I shielded the clutch cable so it can't get hot and expand.   I adjusted the clutch so it's definitely disengaging gears when hot if I press the pedal halfway and beyond.

The Type 9 had done 100,000 miles when I took it out of the donor with no gearbox problems.   All I did was change the oil, change the output shaft oil seal and fit a new clutch release bearing.

Any ideas, folks?  

Edited February 27, 2021 by peter_m7uk

[peter_m7uk]

To clarify, the noise seems to happen at the point of clutch bite as the pedal is raised, whether in neutral or in gear.

[Sparepart]

Just a suggestion for something else to try, with a hot system, engine not running, in gear, handbrake off, rock the car back and fore, see if the same clunk occurs. It might help differentiate between a problem with the clutch release mechanism and some "play" in the drive train. For example, a defective spring in the clutch plate, pressure plate, worn spigot bearing, input shaft bearing.

Edited February 28, 2021 by Sparepart
Add info

[richyb66]

Weak clutch diaphragm.

[peter_m7uk]

3 hours ago, Sparepart said:

Just a suggestion for something else to try, with a hot system, engine not running, in gear, handbrake off, rock the car back and fore, see if the same clunk occurs. It might help differentiate between a problem with the clutch release mechanism and some "play" in the drive train. For example, a defective spring in the clutch plate, pressure plate, worn spigot bearing, input shaft bearing.

Thanks, Sparepart, I will try that.   The suggestion I'm getting on another forum is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft - A guy said he had the same symptoms when his seized.    I suspect, whatever it is, it's not a fun fix 

Edited February 28, 2021 by peter_m7uk

[peter_m7uk]

1 hour ago, richyb66 said:

Weak clutch diaphragm.

It's a brand new clutch, Rich, so that's very unlikely and it feels nice and strong, but thanks for the suggestion

[peter_m7uk]

I am facing up to the fact that, whatever the cause, this is probably an engine-out (or even gearbox) job    I've never done that in a complete car, so just wondering about any tips??   It's bloody tight in a Seven, so I'm giving it some thought.

Obviously, I disconnect exhaust, fuel lines, electrics.   Removing the engine+gearbox together seems extremely difficult in a Lightweight, involving scuttle and battery tray removal, so I definitely want to avoid that.   Separating the engine and gearbox also looks tough!  I suspect, after removing the propshaft and gearbox rear mounting bolt, I need to jack the box up underneath, support the engine and bellhousing and remove the bellhousing-to-engine bolts.   Then try to move the gearbox backwards up the tunnel until the gearbox input shaft separates from the engine.   At this point, with engine mounts off, I can freely hoist the engine up?

Cheers

[richyb66]

Can you remove the prop without taking out the diff because you can't on a 2B. If you can't, you'll need to remove the engine and then pull the box out forwards.

[Leslie Walters]

Don't know if this helps but on my Haynes Roadster the gearbox will not come out with the engine in so I removed the engine mounts from the block as well as from the outboard end which allowed me to slide the engine forward on a jack under the sump with a wooden block to spread the weight the gearbox then came forward enough to come out, seems like a bit of a mess but it was actually quite simple and didn't take long, obviously it might be totally different on yours, hope this helps if in fact you do have to remove the gearbox.

[IanS]

If your car is like mine to remove the engine disconnecting the exhaust manifold is not enough, I have to remove the studs from the head to get enough room to extract the engine as the exhaust manifold cannot be extracted with the engine on its mounts.

I have to remove the radiator to remove the engine. This gives enough room to move the engine forward releasing the gearbox input shaft.

Then it is support the bell housing and remove all the bolts connecting the engine to the gearbox.

from there on it is straight forward if you have removed engines from front engine rear drive cars.

Refitting the gearbox use a new rear seal for the propshaft (how do I know, had to fit twice).

remove windscreen if fitted and then it is posible to slide the gearbox onto the propshaft whilst juggling the propshaft end through the hole in the transmission tunnel for the gearlever. I supported prop shaft on old lifting strap and had gearbox on trolly jack kicked back with left foot whilst right hand held lifting strap and standing on right foot in engine bay, could have been a charlie chaplin film.

2 sets of hands are a real help for this

[peter_m7uk]

Hello chaps.   Yes, it's straightforward to remove the propshaft on the Lightweight, you just take the tunnel top cover off and access is easy.   However, I've measured it up and I think I can get the engine out first without moving the gearbox!    It may turn out differently when I come to actually do it, but I think if I take the pump and thermostat housing off the front of the engine to allow it to move forwards, I can get enough movement to release the gearbox input shaft.  Then I just lift.   We shall see!