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Robin Hood 2B or GBS Zero


2bTom

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Hi I am new to kit cars and decided to jump in the deep end and purchased a Robin hood without knowing much about kit cars. I have since found out with a lot of investigation that it is a 2B with a 1.8 pinto engine and a type 9 5 speed gearbox. It needs a lot of work to get it on the road.

I got in too a conversation with someone that knows about kit cars and he advised me to go for a GBS zero kit and use the parts from the robin. The reason for this that it will be easier to get it through the IVA as the 2B’s can be hard to IVA.

So my question is whether to push on with the 2B and risk struggling to get it through the IVA or to go for the zero and have an easier time with the IVA? I am trying to keep the price down.

From what I have read about the zero’s they are a lot better than the 2B’s. is this correct?

And changing the subject a bit I have the tags from the donor car (88 Sierra) but I don’t have the V5. How do I go about getting the car registered without the car going on a Q plate?

Before anyone says I am daft and should have done my homework before I got the car I agree but at the time I thought now or never (and the wife approved).

So thanks in advance for any advice and pointers.

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Welcome to the club Tom.

The 2B is one of the strongest chasses kit cars. A lot heavery than the GBS Zero.

It all depends how much you want to spend to put the 2B in a good state to get through the IVA.

I would think that it would be a lot less than buying a Zero chasses base kit. £3000 +

If you have the Reg No. from the donor vehicle you maybe able to get a V5 for it from DVLA.

We can all talk you through what needs to be done to get it on the road.

So lets see some pictures and then explane what needs attention.

Regards

Martin

 

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I wouldn't say that a 2B is any harder than a Zero to get through IVA, the Zero is probably easier to build but if you've got to spend £3k+ to get the kit then it certainly isn't going to be the cheaper option and it's debatable whether the final value would justify the extra cost.

Your main issue will be getting the donor V5 if you're set on not going down the Q plate route and you probably need to sort this out first. In either case, don't underestimate the amount of time it takes to build a car. Starting from scratch, you would build a Zero quicker but if you've not in a hurry, the 2B is a good option with plenty of scope for future modification.

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1.8 Pinto isn't the most desirable engine. I think if I was in your position I'd consider a couple of other options.

Option 1, keep the type 9 box and use a 2 litre zetec.

Option 2, sell the type 9 (which fetch decent money) and fit an Mazda engine and box.

Both these options would mean a Q plate after IVA but that makes the emissions test a bit easier and means you don't need to worry about getting the V5 and ensuring the engine numbers match.

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Thanks for all your advice. One of the main problems I am finding is that I need to replace all the body panels (this is what you get buying from ebay) as they are all in a poor state. Finding these at a reasonable price is difficult which means going to Kitspares and that will cost me about £1300 without the tub and the insides. I am not too bothered about the inside as I will just get some sheet aluminum and cut it to shape. That is why I am considering the zero kit.

I think that the 1.8 pinto is good enough for what I need at the moment I am not going to race it I just want to use it mainly on the road.

I did get the registration plate with the car so I still would prefer to go with that rather than a Q plate unless there is no other choice.

I have attached some pictures of the car.

Yes it looks like someone used advertising hoarding for the insides :)

IMG_1783.jpg

IMG_1781.jpg

IMG_1780.jpg

IMG_1777.jpg

IMG_1771.jpg

IMG_1777.jpg

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If that windscreen frame is ali I would not think that it is strong enough to take the load at speed without folding.

There is a reason for the steel mount and support we have for cars fitted with a screen.

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