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2B Roof Fitting Guide


Liam672

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I am not aware of any videos but it is fairly straightforward.

Start with the frame, lay it round the rear of the car just in from the edge this will give the position for the brackets to mount the frame. It lies on top of the bodywork.

If your roof has been fitted to another car it will probably not come with the press stud fittings from the body side so you will probably have to source these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/heavy-duty-press-studs/bn_7024768456 unfortunatly you will have to buy both parts but they are not that expensive.

Robin Hood used press stud in thier kits but some owners used ither fittings like lift the dot https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-58-lift-the-dot or turnbuckle https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-14-turnbuckle-fastener

With the frame fitted you will need adjustable straps / rachet straps to hold the frame(s) in place (I only use the main frame and the use the  roll bar as the other frame). The main frame should end up almost over your head when you are seated the secondary  frame points back and ends up very near the roll bar. The rachet straps can use the roll bar as the other end.

Use parcel tape to hold the hood in place on the windscreen and check that the back is correctly positioned, adjust the frames to get this correct. Parcel tape to the back holds everything in place for the next part

The next part is drilling into the windscreen frame knowing that getting wrong will crack / shatter the windscreen.

Mark the frame where the fittings need to be fitted, remember measure twice drill once! Remove the hood for the next part.

Obtain suitable self tapping screws to suit the fittings, the length of the screws should protrude no more than the thickness of your screen frame when pushed through the fitting, file the end off to achieve this. Select the correct diameter drill bit for the screws in aluminium and slip a section of pipe over the drill bit to limit the depth (copper brake pipe can work) and set the bit in the drill such that it protrudes just the thicknes of the screen frame and drill the frame and fix the fittings. I used stainless screws so as not to have to worry about rust causeing problems in the years to come (25 years and still going good).

With the hood now fastened to the frame the rear fittings can be marked out and fitted as above but with out the need to avoid glass (but you will still need to check that there are no wires / fuel pipes etc. before drilling), some will be into fiberglass and some into metal.

You need permanent straps to the back or just keep using the temporary straps. I popriveted the end of 2 straps to the hood frame and used buckles to hold the frame down when not in use https://churchproductsuk.co.uk/products/black-plastic-cam-buckles-lever-flap-25mm-fastening-straps. The strap goes through the buckle and is popriveted to thre correct length when fully pulled through. The strap wraps part round the frame so that the poprivets are not in contact with the hood.

Good luck.

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9 hours ago, IanS said:

I am not aware of any videos but it is fairly straightforward.

Start with the frame, lay it round the rear of the car just in from the edge this will give the position for the brackets to mount the frame. It lies on top of the bodywork.

If your roof has been fitted to another car it will probably not come with the press stud fittings from the body side so you will probably have to source these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/heavy-duty-press-studs/bn_7024768456 unfortunatly you will have to buy both parts but they are not that expensive.

Robin Hood used press stud in thier kits but some owners used ither fittings like lift the dot https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-58-lift-the-dot or turnbuckle https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-14-turnbuckle-fastener

With the frame fitted you will need adjustable straps / rachet straps to hold the frame(s) in place (I only use the main frame and the use the  roll bar as the other frame). The main frame should end up almost over your head when you are seated the secondary  frame points back and ends up very near the roll bar. The rachet straps can use the roll bar as the other end.

Use parcel tape to hold the hood in place on the windscreen and check that the back is correctly positioned, adjust the frames to get this correct. Parcel tape to the back holds everything in place for the next part

The next part is drilling into the windscreen frame knowing that getting wrong will crack / shatter the windscreen.

Mark the frame where the fittings need to be fitted, remember measure twice drill once! Remove the hood for the next part.

Obtain suitable self tapping screws to suit the fittings, the length of the screws should protrude no more than the thickness of your screen frame when pushed through the fitting, file the end off to achieve this. Select the correct diameter drill bit for the screws in aluminium and slip a section of pipe over the drill bit to limit the depth (copper brake pipe can work) and set the bit in the drill such that it protrudes just the thicknes of the screen frame and drill the frame and fix the fittings. I used stainless screws so as not to have to worry about rust causeing problems in the years to come (25 years and still going good).

With the hood now fastened to the frame the rear fittings can be marked out and fitted as above but with out the need to avoid glass (but you will still need to check that there are no wires / fuel pipes etc. before drilling), some will be into fiberglass and some into metal.

You need permanent straps to the back or just keep using the temporary straps. I popriveted the end of 2 straps to the hood frame and used buckles to hold the frame down when not in use https://churchproductsuk.co.uk/products/black-plastic-cam-buckles-lever-flap-25mm-fastening-straps. The strap goes through the buckle and is popriveted to thre correct length when fully pulled through. The strap wraps part round the frame so that the poprivets are not in contact with the hood.

Good luck.

Very Helpful Ian, thanks for this! I shall keep reading what you have said

 

cheers

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