******* Exhaust Manifold

[Guest docter fox]

just finishing the rewiring at the moment and thought wed take it for a drive to test it, it runs great! a lot smoother and still very quick

got to the top of olivers mount and stopped to have a look, when we tried to leave we realised the exhaust manifold had melted through the outer layer of the clutch cable we havnt had any problems with it before and we havnt moved it so not sure on why it decided to happen now but nevermind

i emptied the car of the mountains of tools that were shoved in the back before we left so we didnt even have any tape to bodge it

so coming back without the clutch through traffic was interesting to say the least

has anyone else had problems with the manifold? iv burnt other things such as speedo cables aswell is it just me?

seen quite a few people with exhaust wrap, would this help? although im definately cable tieing everything away from it now

[chris n]

I used to burn clutch cables like no tomorrow with my old manifold on my S7. The cable was no where near the manifold it just melted all the time :angry:

 

I hope the the Pilgrim sumo manifold which I have fitted will not do the same, Ive wrapped the clutch cable in a load of exhaust wrap seems ok at the moment, so finger crossed when the car go's back on the road

[Guest salty_monk]

I have had to wrap mine in exhaust wrap which seems to have worked ok but found this http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=261_264 today which may be of use.

I have something similar that "Petemate" aquired for me off an aircraft, he's got it on his & a couple of guys in their branch use it too.

 

By the way - wrapping tape around where the outer has melted will be as much use as a fart in a wind tunnel... just replace the cable & get it shielded...

[Longboarder]

I have seen my manifold glowing dull red at night. That radiates a lot of heat which is why cables melt. They don't have to touch. Heat reflective tube does the job on my car and is neat to fit.

 

Nigel

[Guest chris brown]

has anyone else had problems with the manifold

Yes I think most people have had problems there are various methods to overcome the problem some have used the transit cable which is longer and can be routed away from the manifold. Do a search as this has been discussed on several occasions

[Guest John Church]

Here's something I pulled of the site in June 2004. Not sure who wrote it.

 

I've never had the problem, but kept it just in case.

 

Clutch Cable

 

I first heard of this from someone at the Derby area meet up last summer. Can't remember who it was, but thanks to you! I mentioned it on here a couple of times but nobody seemed to know much about it.

 

With the RH 4 into 1 manifold fitted the Sierra clutch cable has to go between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust runners in order to have a smooth route from the pedal box down to the bell-housing. This means it gets very hot and the nylon covering on the cable melts when the engine is warm. When cooling the nylon sets again and glues the cable to the outer, hence when the car is just started again the clutch has a very stiff and notchy feel to it. This has been bugging me for some time now, and when I took the cable off yesterday I'm surprised it worked at all. It was so tight I couldn't move it without a vice and a pair of pliers!

 

The solution is to fit the cable from a transit. After several trips to my local ford dealers I finally got one which was close enough to do the job. It's originally from a "early 90's dohc transit" and the Ford finish code is F6177410. Part number 88VB-7K653-AA. This cable is about 18 inches longer than the Sierra item, has the same end fittings, and allows the whole thing to be routed around the front of the manifold and down the back of the alternator before going underneath to the bell housing.

 

One modification was required when fitting it. Compared to the Sierra cable, the inner cable relative to the outer sheath is about 2 inches shorter, hence at first it wouldn't reach onto the half moon wheel on the pedal box, even when the wheel is rotated to its limit. The solution to this is to remove about 2 inches from the outer sheath. This is simple enough to do. Un-crimp the fitting at the pedal box end, cut back the outer plastic, then the spiral metal rings, then the red plastic liner, and then put the end fitting back on again using a small jubilee clip to hold it in place.

 

The whole job took about 1/2 hour to do, and the clutch is now vastly improved as a result!

[Guest Ant]

Here's something I pulled of the site in June 2004. Not sure who wrote it.

 

I've never had the problem, but kept it just in case.

 

Clutch Cable

 

I first heard of this from someone at the Derby area meet up last summer. Can't remember who it was, but thanks to you! I mentioned it on here a couple of times but nobody seemed to know much about it.

 

With the RH 4 into 1 manifold fitted the Sierra clutch cable has to go between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust runners in order to have a smooth route from the pedal box down to the bell-housing. This means it gets very hot and the nylon covering on the cable melts when the engine is warm. When cooling the nylon sets again and glues the cable to the outer, hence when the car is just started again the clutch has a very stiff and notchy feel to it. This has been bugging me for some time now, and when I took the cable off yesterday I'm surprised it worked at all. It was so tight I couldn't move it without a vice and a pair of pliers!

 

The solution is to fit the cable from a transit. After several trips to my local ford dealers I finally got one which was close enough to do the job. It's originally from a "early 90's dohc transit" and the Ford finish code is F6177410. Part number 88VB-7K653-AA. This cable is about 18 inches longer than the Sierra item, has the same end fittings, and allows the whole thing to be routed around the front of the manifold and down the back of the alternator before going underneath to the bell housing.

 

One modification was required when fitting it. Compared to the Sierra cable, the inner cable relative to the outer sheath is about 2 inches shorter, hence at first it wouldn't reach onto the half moon wheel on the pedal box, even when the wheel is rotated to its limit. The solution to this is to remove about 2 inches from the outer sheath. This is simple enough to do. Un-crimp the fitting at the pedal box end, cut back the outer plastic, then the spiral metal rings, then the red plastic liner, and then put the end fitting back on again using a small jubilee clip to hold it in place.

 

The whole job took about 1/2 hour to do, and the clutch is now vastly improved as a result!

That was me.

 

The modified end stop did break when I was in Le Mans, but only in that I'd weakened it by turning it down in a lathe. A better solution is to remove the end stop completely and chuck it, and use a jubilee clip on the outer sheath to act as a replacement end stop instead. Or turn up a shiney new brass end fitting like I did eventually.

 

Ant

[niduncan]

I have gone through a couple of cables due to heat from the exhaust manifold. My latest cable is from a Sierra 2.0i Cosworth (Exc 4x4) (1985-93) Part No: QCC1585. Both ends are the same as a standard cable and it has an overall length of 72 inches. This means it goes over the top, down the front then back under the alternator. Well away from the exhaust manifold. It cost £10.49 from my local auto parts shop.

[Guest docter fox]

I have had to wrap mine in exhaust wrap which seems to have worked ok but found this http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=261_264 today which may be of use.

reasonable price for the actual tube but they want £8.50 for delivery! :angry:

i feel like ordering something really big and cheap

coincidentally its £8.50 however much you order i think... any ideas?

[Guest red7]

Hey Doc whats the score on Olivers Mount? I have never been but I hear it's a great place for a blast. We are looking for somewhere to go for runs this year any ideas mate? By the way I hear Slingsby in Kirby Lonsdale are busy making escape submarines for NATO and are looking for engineers, get your resume in there.

[Guest Battery Bill]

On ours Joey made a heatshield that goes above the manifold and we have routed the Clutch cable down through some Copper pipe after surrounding it in Exhaust lagging.

[Guest Battery Bill]

And here it is below.

We have just used standard pipe fittings. So the whole thing cost next to nothing.

We have had extensive testing of it at last years Barkston and have had no problems.

[Guest docter fox]

olivers mount is just a normal road when not being used for competitions, so you can have a blast up and around the roads with a stop at the top and have a look over Scarborough (even better at night!), the roads to scarborough from driffield are pretty good and include staxton hill too

id definately be up for a run into and exploring the north yorkshire moors this year aswell

how far away is scarborough from you? a club run perhaps?

got to pass my test first though theory is on friday

 

bill,

have you got a pic from slightly further back?

 

Thanks

[Guest docter fox]

By the way - wrapping tape around where the outer has melted will be as much use as a fart in a wind tunnel...

but wrapping tape around a spanner and the outer cable can give it the rigidity needed to work well enough to get you home with a lil more clutch than none....

[Guest chris brown]

You could run water through that Bill and keep it even cooler