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Clutch Pedal Problems


Guest Brynjon

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Guest Brynjon

Having been a bit of a cheat and bought my S7 already built I have encounterd a couple of problems apart from my first one which was within 24 hours someone driving into the side of me as he hadn't seen me. A small amount of adjustments and checking over, and checking over and more checking over all appeared well until my clutch pedal seemed to click. It dropped a little and then came back up before dropping again.

The car is now at a mates and he asked me how he got into the pedal box?

 

I scratched my head and pondered a while then admitted to him I didn't have a clue.

 

Anyone out there let me in on the secret or will I have to - well I will be honest - will he have to climb underneath and discover himself.

 

I will post a photo online as and when I can get one with the smallest amount of kilobytes or whatever to get it on.

You will all be impressed by her.

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take the "box" apart that is under the bonnet, behind the dash, the pedals are there. You'll find that the plastic ratchet is worn, so you will need a new one. It could even be worth finding out what uncle Henry wants for a new one, as taking one from a scrap car is a pain.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Mike Gouldsborough

I had a similar problem after the winter lay-up, except the clutch pedal failed to operate the cable entirely. I took the whole assembly to pieces and found that the spring had broken. Replacing it restored the operation, except there is still unwanted slackness with the inner cable tension. I don't remember any obvious problem with the ratchet condition.

 

This appears to worsen after say 20 miles or so, to a point where I have to make sure I press the clutch pedal to the floor to ensure quiet gearchanges. I am thinking that this extra movement is caused by the inner cable heating up and stretching. The outer cable is tied away from the exhaust as much as possible, but it is bound to pick up some heat with time.

 

Anyone any ideas on improving the normal operation, and then about the extra pedal movement with mileage? What about converting to hydraulics - anyone with experience ot this?

 

Regards

Mike G:unsure:

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Guest Mr Pid

If the problem is heat, you could try putting some heatproof sleaving along the whole cable.Got mine from demon tweeks.

 

I have tried this as mine runs very close to a rather warm turbo. I may even consider getting a new cable made to avoid all sources of heat, but dont know anyone who can do this yet! :huh:

 

Its worked ok so far, although i havent really driven it yet (pre SVA).

 

Good luck

 

:rolleyes:

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Guest cjbailey

I had an interesting one whilst driving the donor home yesterday. Went to change gear part way home and there was a nice big twang and the clutch pedal now clicks like mad when you push it down. It still seems to change gear and all, but I will need to fix it before it goes into the kit.

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Guest Andy Sparrow

Having replaced 2 clutch cables in only 2000 miles I realise that despite heat protection and keeping it off the manifold (which is also wrapped) Its just too darn hot under there..

 

Has anyone got a more 'permanant' solution to the clutch cable problem

For example - is there a longer cable that we could route right away from any heat source... ?

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Is this a common problem on Hoods? I've held my clutch cable exactly half way between two of the pipes on my 4 into 1 manifold, using a thin bracket onto the inner two exhaust manifold bolts.

 

There must be a company out there who make custom length clutch cables. Richfield speedograph in Arnold, Nottingham, make control cables of all shapes and sizes. They may do clutch cables - worth a try.

 

Ant

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Guest cjbailey

Currently the clutch in the donor clicks at the top and drops about 1/3 of the way down before actually doing anything. The clutch seems to work fine, but when it gets back to the top 1/3 on the way back up it clicks 5 or 6 times before it reaches it's rest position.

I think it is something to investigate, it's bound to be something simple. I will be buying a new clutch cable anyway, may as well change it!

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Guest Brynjon

I've had the side off the pedal box and I discovered what the problem was with mine. The builder had placed a wooden wedge - purposely as it had a couple of notches and a groove - on the top of the pedals. It must have become dislodged and over the weeks worked its way over towards the clutch pedal.On doing that the pedal wouldn't return to its proper position so I was riding the clutch.

Alls well that ends well. Well it didn't did it - clutch is great but now I have a water problem. Water not heating and running from overflow on radiator. It is an old style rad with metal cap - no expansion tank. Seeing as it is sunny it is more of a pain cos I can do less posing around an more time under the bonnet.

Don't you just love it?!!!!! :blink:

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The wooden wedge was a common mod to brace the angled top of the pedal assembly to the stainless pedal box. Check the rest of the clutch mechanism to make sure the wedge was the culprit. Then if not fitted it may be wise to make a metal brace from Firewall to pedal assembly to the plate the mastercylinder is bolted to to stiffen up the pedals.

 

Nigel

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Guest Mr Pid

Hi all,

 

I have contacted a company who claim to be able to produce and manufacture any cable of any sort to fit anything! :huh:

 

I have explained our dilema and informed them of the many potential customers, so i shall keep you posted if i hear anything in the near future.

 

With any luck the melted clutch cable will be a thing of the past. :D

 

Stu :rolleyes:

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