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And if it doesn't survive?

Once we knew where the canopy needed to be attached to the main roof, we could mark off the roof for trimming. The ensure we had a strong, waterproof join, the roof material was folded back on itself and we added some diamond shaped material reinforcements where the pins on the frame go through. The holes had eyelets rivetted into them as well so there wouldn’t be any chance of the awning tearing. The canopy could then be sewn to roof. The roof went on top with the canopy underneath to reduce the chance of water running off the roof and in to the joint. The awning was refitted to the caravan and we marked out on the corners where the side surround and the end surround panels needed to be cut, folded over and sewn together. We started by pulling the side panel tight around the frame and marking where the corner poles came to before repeating with the end panels. We wanted the join to run down the pole and we were also aiming to get it as neat as possible. We can adjust the position of the cornet poles and the size of the frame to pull things tight but although we had made the end panels flat, when there are fitted, they actually curve around up on to the roof, so the marking out proved to much more difficult than we had expected. This is the front corner and you can see where the material in the bottom half has been trimmed back ready to sew together. At the top, we still need to mark out the angled cut where the end panel will join up to the canopy. At ground level the grey PVC skirt is visible that tucks inside the awning and goes under the groundsheet. We wanted the top of the skirt to be the same level all around and we had to shorten the side panel to raise the skirt. This was additional work but at least we were removing material rather than having to add it on. Here the front top corner has been joined to the canopy and we have cut away the excess material from the back of the awing ready to fit the rear side panel. Here’s the final panel fitted. There are no guy ropes pulling the material tight and the bottom isn’t pegged down but that’s pretty much it. Just visible inside is the groundsheet. We made this out of offcuts of the waterproof roof material and as well as covering the floor, it extends vertically up to close off the area underneath the side of the caravan. It has the same edging on it as the main awning and slides into a plastic awning rail that is rivetted to the bottom of the caravan side panel.

Oh FFS, I'll be rallying in a pedal-powered sofa wrapped in blacmange-filled bubble wrap at this rate

Since passing the SVA a few months ago I've not been able to drive my car properly because of heating issues. Last week I finally fathomed out my errors and did a bit of re jigging of the pipes. On the test run the temp stayed just under 90 degrees even driving on a duel carriage way which would have gone up above 100 previously. On the same run the car just wouldn't pull and seemed to have no more acceleration than a normal family car. Yesterday I finally found time to connect the laptop up to the Emerald ECU and found I had no feedback from the throttle position sensor. During my work on the water pipes I must have disturbed the plug. A quick fix and then another test run. I have 3 maps on the ECU, emissions, low boost and high boost. I have never tried the high boost as the car simple wasn't ready or run in. Low boost runs at 0.4 bar and high at 1.1. Wow what a difference that makes. It actually felt like the front wheels lifted although I'm sure they didn't I can actually start to enjoy the car now and attend some events in it. Jez

Hi Dan I had similar problems with my kit, there are quite a few wiring diagrams on the forums that will really help, I printed one for a mini motor and one for wiper & light stalks, Regards Harry