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I was working in area so have had a nice steak and pint see ya all in a bit

Wind deflectors, as fitted to my 2B. Made from 4mm plexiglass, which can be bent by heating gently with a soft pencil flamed blow torch, along the bend lines, both sides. Keep the torch moving, (if you heat too much in one place it will bubble and burn) and apply gentle force, when soft enough it will bend. If you havn't done this before, try it out on a scrap piece. As Alan has done before, I have used the same type of lift off hinges to fit these in place, I can therefore change from full doors to wind deflectors in seconds. Try to fit these as close to the bodywork as possible, to stop the airflow short cutting to the low pressure behind the windscreen, as this is what causes the turbulance, and bufferting. Don't forget that these are handed, so you will need to bend them in opposite directions to get a pair. I should add thet the tab at the top, is bent forewards to stop the deflectors moving , and should be adjusted to give a snug fit. The bend at the bottom should follow the join above the the side panel.

http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ A very useful source of info including some info on the tie bar conversation

The most important thing to check is the V5. Make sure it is correctly registered as a Robin Hood. If not, then walk away Later: Ignore this, I just did an MOT check on the number plate and it does come up as a Robin Hood.

I think it it was mild steel it would be painted so 90% sure its stainless. The tie bars replace the old heavy and over stiff sierra front anti roll bar which joins the front suspension under the car side to side. The conversation just improves things but i think many exist happily without it. I'm not super mechanical but managed the conversation myself.

Should be there. Nick