magh

I just run a simple earthed switched that I can flick on to immobilize the kit and if it breaks you pull the 1 wire off lol

Accuspark plugs run the 3 prong setup, although mine were removed on the rolling road in favour of good old ngk’s

I would def be interested in watching that Brumster! May give me the confidence to pull mine apart if my funny bearing starts making noises again lol

Has the timing been checked or is it an air leak?

Correct the one with the cut out is the drivers side the other the passenger side. The corners that are radiused go around the tubed chassis. If you search YouTube there are the build videos albeit rubbish they will show you where to place the folds.

Most people use the Lucas set up from a mini and some landrovers. Lots of info on here have a search.

Or just simply apply for the v5 for the donar.

I’m not down south but have them on my pinto. Fantastic setup run very well and sound great. I’ve you want to save a lot of time and hassle there is a very well known company local to me called bogg brothers they have been doing these for years and will sell you a complete kit ready to bolt on. Alternatively you could just purchase the inlet manifold from them or carbs pre jetted etc. Cheers Mike.

I have their 3 ton trolley jack and it is fantastic for the money.

Sgs stuff is pretty good as well.

No I’d say it’s very similar I shall take a photo tomorrow night when I’m in the garage for you. Yes those photos dont don’t look anywhere as close to the manifold lol maybe loose the cable tie for the throttle cable on the brake pipe too. It’s all the silly little things they will look for.

On another note they may pick up on that brake pipe running directly over the manifold if the fluid boils not good. I routed mine from the tunnel and turned it right along the servo mounting plate then brought it down the chassis rail to the master cylinder then went to the scrap yard and pulled off the aluminium exhaust heat sheid from under a car and cut it up and Formed it into shape between the servo/master and the manifold to prevent heat soak.

My 2b also only cleared the manifold by about 5mm but nothing was mentioned. I know he had a good look at the steering rack as he noticed I’d forgot to fold the tabs over on the locking washer on the triangular joint. Mine went through Iva last summer but most likely depends on the tester.

I used the following from eBay as it’s got Velcro on so wraps around and holds itself in place and has worked great even with my clutch cable running through the middle of the manifold. On my winter list to change for a longer cable just for piece of mind really. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-75mm-Heat-Shield-Shroud-Aluminized-Line-Sleeving-THERMO-SLEEVE-EXPRESS/152499888003?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D2f79ab2f2f524dbbbdf0124e781d5a68%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D263832835660%26itm%3D152499888003%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

That’s genius lol i used a heat shield to get mine through I’ve and the edge of the heat shield has some aluminium u trim on it.

Its coming together now and looking amazing

I can highly recommend a tin of acf50 it’s used a lot in the aircraft industry as can be used with all sorts of materials and doesn’t conduct so it excellent for spraying inside all wiring connections I’ve used it in every one on the kit.

Well done it sounds like that is a good fail sheet I’d be happy to come away with that. As you say the presentation of the car goes a long way to getting the tester on your side. You will have the items ticked off in no time. If you haven’t got the original steering wheel let me know I have the original Sierra one from my Iva for sale.

So you only moved the ball the thickness of that c clip? I thought it needed to be about 7mm?

That’s a pretty good suggestion. Thank you

Hi I’m looking to fit a Quickshift on the kit. Now I think I’m going to follow the Dave Andrews post and convert my original stick unless someone has a secondhand one for sale. Otherwise does anyone have the metal spacer plate from the kits kicking about they don’t want and before I order one. I think it will be much easier and neater than trying to fill the gap after spacing it with nuts. Many thanks Mike.

Def do the trailer option fortunately I have access to one so used it for my Iva just piece of mind that you will at least get there! A rolling road road session is well worth the money whilst on mine it wasn’t running quite right and I too had the accuspark plugs in. They whipped them out and fitted some good old ngk plugs and that made a huge difference to the running. Maybe worth a try.

It’s most likely not going to be needed but something as simple as a wire and switch that will take all of 10mins to fit for added piece of mind I feel is worth it.

Afternoon all as above I’m wanting to fit a device to prevent the car starting / been hot wired when I leave the kit parked up places. Due to it it been a pinto I’m sure I’ve read on here and understood that if I simply run an earth to a switch and on to the negative side of the coil when the switch is on and makes the earth the car won’t start? Didnt want to try it and blow the coil as it wasn’t cheap. Also the reason for not killing the electric fuel pump is a, it’s next to the tank so means running cables through the car and b, I’m running bike carbs so there would be a short supply of fuel allowing it to start and move granted not far but even so. Cheers Mike.

Mines the orange mudguards to the right haha I’ll take that