magh

I used the following technique from north west hoodies. http://nw.rhocar.org/supporting_the_steering_shaft.htm

the easiest way is to flip the wheel boxes over. If you look they will most likely be forward of the metal pipe so by taking them off and flipping them so they sit to the rear of the pipe it flips the direction rotated but you will need new arms designed for the other way.

If it’s the savage switch you are running simply swop the switch fronts the emblems pull out to change them. And as you say if it’s just a retest that’s all they will check

Look up the wiring diagram for the cartek version using the savage switch as I’m sure I had to loop 2 pins on the switch

Basically as follows. Run a 12v feed (permanent) to your savage switch. And connect the yellow wire to the switch so when the switch is pressed the 12v runs through the switch and into the yellow wire. Connect the red wire into your dipped headlight cable. ( this is how the box knows to allow power to the fog if your headlight is on or not to allow power if it’s off ) Then connect the brown to the positive feed running to the fog light. And finally the black is simply an earth.

I use that switch ( savage ) with the cartek version of your box I think there were only 5 wires dead simple and worked great. keep at it I’m sure you will crack it.

Just checked the garage and it’s the earlier manual that does cover it thaf would be great brumster, I shall message you now.

I have one in the garage which I will be checking to see which I have the green/blue one. As I can’t remember which one I have. I have ordered a clutch release bearing just Incase luck is in my favour lol.

I’ll have a look is it a specific Haynes manual for the type 9? Thanks

Weather depending the engine and box will come out Sunday. Then I can have a look. I comfident with most things mechanically but I think a gear box is prob asking for trouble lol.

IanS, the car is stationary and neutral and the noise exists press the clutch in and it stops. When driving it home in gears 1-4 the noise is there, press the clutch and I think the noise was still there select neutral and coast and it went. Sadly the box will have to come out to remove the cover. As it would mean removing all cockpit trim and drilling a lot of stainless rivets to get the trans tunnel top off and even then it’s under the dash as I built a sealed firewall the engine won’t take long to get out will prob be the box that takes the time. Sadly it’s not been modified for a drain hole plus I’d rather work on the box on the bench to inspect it. Always at the start of summer lol.

Def 21w those 5’s will be like candles 🕯

Thanks. It is pointing more towards layshaft bearings from looking into it unfortunately something I really hoped wasn’t the case. The clutch release bearings I’ve heard failing in the past usually whine and this doesn’t. Is it possible to drop the prop off and the box backwards and out from under the car instead of pulling the engine out then the box. Just saves me a trip to collect an engine hoist. The car car isn’t going anywhere now as it’s home in the garage so hopefully not too much damage has been done.

Thought as much. Reverse still engages and works fine and when moving backwards I still get the noise.

It has crossed my mind, I’m even hoping a flywheel bolt has maybe come loose and catching the fork arm. It’s just so strange neutral and 1-4 all do it yet 5th doesn’t. I tried 5th as low as 20 and silent yet 4th does it right up the speed.

Forgot to mention this is a pinto with type 9 5speed box.

After some help please guys. After a good day at Stoneleigh yesterday had a few issues once I got home. Car drove faultlessly until I stopped just before I got home. There is a horrendous metallic clunk/crunching coming from what I think is the gearbox/ bell housing area. So when stationary and out of gear the noise happens in a constant pattern and does seem to increase with engine revs. If I then put my foot to the floor on the clutch after about half a second the noise stops completely. I can can select all gears fine and drive with no slip of the clutch. Gears 1-4 continue to make the noise extremely loudly but the strange thing as soon as I engage 5th it’s all whisper quiet and perfect. The drive to Stoneleigh was 150 miles each way almost all motorway and in 5th the whole way. Obviously i I realise it’s engine out and maybe box. I’m thinking maybe the release bearing or arm is catching something if it was a bearing in the box surely 5th would do it too??? Thanks mike.

The first leg to Stoneleigh is complete 127 miles and to say the car hasn’t moved or ran in 6 months I’m rather happy just a further 30 in the morning looking forward to it and hoping the weather stays good!

Wow that’s a mess. So glad I wired all mine myself and inserted separate ignition and permanent live fused boxes for future upgrades. Makes life so much easier.

I fitted the magic box just to be safe. I remember them checking the fog light worked but not to see if it remained on after ignition cycle

I made my own alternator bracket out of some 5mm flat bar and plate and welded it. The original bracket worked but the alternator was miles off the engine. Then just used the top adjustable bar as standard

Download this and study it! It will help no end. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/738819/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-passenger-vehicles.pdf

Do we know what time the gates open on Sunday morning and is there a time limit we have to be through the gate by to get onto the club stand before the gates are shut? First show how in the kit so looking forward to it just hope I make it down it will be the longest journey it’s done since been built.

As above that’s my understanding also.

Mine is about inch and a quarter and I wouldn’t recommend it