1186497

Cheers both, I'll give that a go and see what happens. Fingers crossed. One last question. I have a pressure cap on the expansion tank...and also one on the radiator. The radiator one is a legacy thing from when I ran a pinto. Is this an issue at all, people have suggested you should only run one pressure cap. Given it was running without issue I never changed it

Happy saturday all, So, a few weeks ago my alternator belt went whilst i was about 3 miles from home. I managed to get the car home, stopping every few minutes as the radiator started to boil over. Fingers crossed I've not done more damage! Now when I've re added water to the cooling system its boiling over at the radiator end. Also the carb side of the engine isn't getting as hot as the exhaust side ??? It doesnt seem to have air in the system as all pipes run hot, and water seems to be pumped around the system. Although the fan sensor is on the top rope into the rad and measures only 80 degrees as it starts to boil. Any ideas? Should I be worries about the uneven heating of the engine, did I do more damage? Cheers all Simon

For now its user error....always check you have enough fuel! Still knocked with a full tank so hopefully that has now gone once I fill her up. Cheers for the help.

Cheers guys, moved the pump to the back of the car today but not made any difference, if anything it's worse. Looks like its struggling to pump fuel through. Changed the filter as suggested so can see the lack of fuel now. Looking at the fuel pump rating its 1-2 psi, should this be sufficient? All I can think is that the filter in the tank has become blocked.

Hi colin. R1 electric pump. Seems to provide enough fuel but I had read its better near the tank. Bit of a pain to move but will if that's the issue. Where ideally should it fit in relation to the tank?

Hi all Hope everyone is keeping well. I've got a knocking fuel pump. Zetec engine running r1 carbs. Thought it was a faulty pump so bought another off Ebay but same issue. Loud knocking as it pumps fuel through, car runs and doesn't seem to be starved of fuel. Any ideas? Fuel pump is meant for an r1 so should be ok, I'm thinking maybe I'm asking too much of it due to the angle of the inlet (see pic). Also when I changed the pump there was no fuel in the inlet pipe, again I assume this is due to the angle. Any advice welcome!! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x9BaGJ-d8Pe-pIDUe_zXlr0ooSVmZsno/view?usp=drivesdk Thanks Simon

Finally got around to fitting the new pump but it’s not cured it. Car idles ok and will run fast when chocked Slightest press on the accelerator and it tries to stall, sounding like it is pulling in to much air vs fuel. Any other ideas before I strip the carbs down? Thanks Simon

Good stuff, pleased youve got it sorted. Just ordered myself one as thats a pretty good price! I assume you just have this and a filter, no regulator etc?

Cheers, I might check the filter in the tank too just in case that is blocked. Confused a little why it would work fine and then just stop if fuel pump. What one did you go for?

Hi all Hope youre all enjoying the nice weather. So after a successful run out I tried for a second bash, only to find that after a mile the car wanted to stall every time I dipped the throttle. It would however run on full choke...so we limped home at 10mph. On inspection I think the fuel tank may have been running on fumes, however now on a full tank and the same thing. Every time I dip the throttle it sounds like the engine is sucking in air but goes to stall. Its always done this on first start but stops after a minute so wasnt an issue. I assume fuel starvation? So I changed the filter, but the same. Fuel rate from the r1 pump seems to be about 1l in just under 30 seconds. Next step is to get the r1 carbs off and give the jets a clean in case they are blocked. Any other advice/ideas before I undertake this??

Cheers guys, will give that a go

Evening, I think they are drilled to 1.7 but would have to check as cant remeber what I decided in the end. Does that sound about right?

Hi guys, sorry to open an old post. So first run out in the sun yesterday and all good. But still the muffled backfire sound when turning off. Im happy ignore it but dont want it to be caused by a build up of pressure that I may regret one day! Fuel taking venting - I have now disconnected the return pipe as only have a need for main pipe to the r1 fuel pump. I have left the old return outlet from the fuel tank as just the short piece of metal that protrudes from the top of the tank (rh 30l tank). Is this sufficient as a breather? Thanks Simon

Cheers, I feared that....getting to the r1 carb screws to increase the fuel mixture is a right pain!!

Logos start, seems I cant upload pictures as I get a fail message. Link instead Thanks all. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3sjej77e8x7mhpj/Photo%2029-03-2018%2C%2014%2053%2011.jpg?dl=0

Hi all Think my Zetec is running a bit rough and before I take it to a rolling road for tuning I thought Id check a few bits on here first. Dont want to waste a session by turning up with a car that has bigger issues! So here is a pic of my plugs - I think they look ok but welcome any thoughts. Only done about 40 miles.

Hi all Thanks for the response, apologies for the lack of feedback, pretty rude of me but I've been far too busy with work to play with the car! Anyhow took it back out tonight and after a five mile stint it lost 1.5L of water. Whilst the header tank is boiling the water seems to be coming out of the rad cap. Fan kicks in at 85 which is in the top rad hose. Water boils in the header so obviously a lot hotter here! The above gives me some stuff to go on as my set up is listed below which differs a bit so I'll try and align to the above. Rad overflow to header overflow Top rad to top engine thermostat Bottom rad to water pump and bottom thermostat and bottom header Top header to very top small outlet on engine thermostat Header has a pressure cap, not sure on rating (140? Maybe) Rad has 13LB one I'd upload some pics but can't seem to on here, if anyone has anymore advice then great Thanks Simon

Hi all Quick piece of advice needed please (I hope) My 2B is overheating when running, this can be as simple as just ticking over, just before the fan kicks in i have noticed that the header tank starts to boil and inevitably lose some water. I'm pretty happy the pipes are 99% correct, and hopefully the stat is not knackered, i believe this issue is this; I have the top pipe on the header tank as an overflow I have the top pipe on the rad as an overflow Solution - connect the two together to pressurize the system? Given it is glorious outside and the lack of extra heater hose, does anyone see an issue with just blocking these two pipes up as an interim solution? Thanks Simon

Thanks Nigel, just tried that and the light is constantly on? Faulty switch or possible miss wire? Have the ignition live through the light to middle pin as suggested and then earth to the outer pin Thanks Simon

Evening Just trying to wire up my brake fluid sensor and having a few problems (pretty sure it's me) So I believe it is a standard sierra reservoir with a 3 pin connection. I have no connector so wiring direct to the pins. So far no matter how I wire it I seem to be getting power to the middle and left pin (i.e. Power to middle gives to left and vice versa). The right pin seems redundant. I would expect that one of these pins should only get power when the level is low, does this suggest a faulty sensor or schoolboy wiring? Any thoughts/diagram would be great! Thanks Simon

Exactly what i purchased! Cheers all.

Cheers guys Sounds like the rad option is better but more expensive - but probably worth the extra. Just a shame not to use the existing connector in the thermostat housing however if i wire this to the megajolt it will no doubt come in handy when i get round to a rolling road session

Thanks, would the rad be a better location for it or doe sit not make a difference?

Hi all Wanting to make my fan come on automatically on my zetec blacktop. I have been looking at the thermostat switches from the likes of Burton Power, these look relatively simple as they just slot into the existing cooling system, however at £70ish they are not cheap. My question is - can i use the top sensor in the zetec thermostat housing and use something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180F-ELECTRIC-FAN-THERMOSTAT-SWITCH-1-4-NPT-BRASS-SENSOR-PROBE-CHEVY-350-383-/331810356926 It seems this would be ideal given it is not currently being used (temp dial is using the bottom one). However is this the best place in the cooling system to have this sensor. Thanks Simon

Morning. Yep when the ignition is on you can here it pump for a few secs max and then cuts off. The carbs haven't been balanced yet, i suppose i'm trying to get them working ok before taking to a rolling road session. Good to hear a few other experience similar things - gives some confidence that they are ok but just need balancing etc...