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Everything posted by david_l_perry

  1. Glad you are getting there with the brakes Dino - Shame I didn't get it right first time, but then we all learn bit by bit....generally by others mistakes Hopefully, once you get them setup correctly, it may also remove the need to upgrade as the existing may well (and probably should) do the job of stopping well enough !
  2. Looking good Dino. Rear brakes lines are the only part that had not been replaced as part of the engine swap - that would all explain the lack of rear brakes at the MOT at least !
  3. Sorry Dino - I cant recall fully. I remember looking at ratios at the time and simply went off the advice that the Compbrake people offered.
  4. Yep, larger wheels and similar tyre profile depth so overall rolling radius increased . The reason was to increase the rolling radius to suit the high torque of the Jag and give the car a little bit more clearance and help with longer legs for cruising. It worked on all counts and had no impact on ride cumfort - built for cruise comfort. It will have effected braking effert now I think more about that. Howevore, that thread I linked tonwas before the wheel change.
  5. Have a read of this Dino:- I did a lot of the above...upgrade was always on the cards if I didnt get toe grips with it. It also has the pedal assembly link on the last page detailed http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=42385&hl=%20brake%20%20pads&page=3 I stripped and cleaned the front pads and discs, and they are mintex pads from memory - didnt make much difference. The thing was, I had changed from sierra brake pedal with servo assisted, to twin cylinder, bias bar and non servo assisted but longer pedal stroke....impossible to make a direct comparison as every part was different.... At the MOT's, the fronts always passed easily, but the rear was always close to the bone - handbrake was never great. Having said that, and just thinking about it now...., all previous MOT's where with the original smaller wheels. The new bigger wheels / tyres would probably make a previous close call on the MOT a fail on the larger wheels ??
  6. Cheers chaps. Any info greatly received
  7. That's the One Richard - I knew I had seen that somewhere ! What was your favourite bits of both tours ?? And are there any sections that you would not bother with again Cheers
  8. Trying to find the maps and routs of the last two Scottish road trips that you guys did... Planning a trip for next year with my brother and couple of others (instead of going to France again) and fancy the highlands. We have done Europe the last 4 years , and fancy a change and something closer to home.....its all weather dependent, but we have had crap weather when we have been to France/Germany for the last few years so may as well have crap weather closer to home and save the ferry crossing We normally do a 6 day trip...so could do a good highlands tour Anybody have the links to the maps, B&B's used and any bits that worked didnt work...... Ta !
  9. Sorry Si - its not leaving the garage until Dino picks it up now....knowing my luck I would take it out for just one last drive and spin off and crash.....
  10. Work commitments stopped me from getting down this weekend
  11. Loved owning the Hood over the last 4 years, but decided its time to move onto something different (not entirely sure what yet...- perhaps a Z3 or Z4 or similar) So decided to put the Kit up for sale. Looking for £4995 - open to any sensible offers. Its going to be up for sale in all of the other usual places as well 07702 682888 Lots more photos Here http://s273.photobucket.com/user/david_l_perry/library/Robin%20hood%20completed%20photos?sort=3&page=1 Robin Hood 2B+ V6 240bhp Jag engine Up for sale is my much loved Robin Hood 2B+ fitted with a V6 3.0l 240bhp engine and gearbox from a 2001 Jag Stype The car was built 2003 and correctly registered as a Robin Hood 2B. Its on an age related plate (J reg) that it based upon the original Donor and not a Q plate as is often found on kit cars. All stainless construction including a full stainless tubular spaceframe chassis, Stainless and GRP panels. The car comes complete with full wet weather gear, doors, Surrey Top, and detachable Wind deflectors. Its in excellent condition with only a very few minor marks as can be expected, This car has always been garaged and maintained to a very high standard. I bought this kit 4 years ago from the original builder who was at the time the North West area secretary of the Robin Hood Owners club (RHocar). When I bought the kit it was originally fitted with a 2.0l Pinto, bike carbs and mega jolt. Its now fitted with a superb 240BHP Jag V6 engine (same engine as the Mondeo ST220 and Jag X type) – the difference is astounding. The full engine fit is documented on the RHocar web site – this site is a great source of info and I would advise any body interested in owning a Kit to join this forum. Since owning the car over the last 4 years I have done many upgrades / alterations. The most significant change being the engine / gearbox change last year from the old pinto to the all alloy Jag V6 3.0l. I purchased a Jag Stype as running car prior to making the change so I could ensure that all was well with the engine and gear box. The 3.0L engine change has all been verified with the DVLA and correctly noted as such on the Log book An Emerald K6 ECU has been custom tuned by Clarkson Autos (a regular in Kit Car Magazine) and further tweaks carried out by Bailey Performance (Telford). I have all of the maps and configuration files for the Emerald backed up, and these will be included. Rolling road charts confirm the engine outputs a very healthy 240BHP (209bhp at the wheels) and 215lbft torque Its stunning change from the 2.0l Pinto – masses of smooth power and lots of top end cruising potential. Approx 125-150miles on a full tank dependent upon driving style. Many kits take a fairly standard Pinto or Duratec and tweak the engine with new cams, carbs, and tuning to try and increase the output. Whilst this works, it often ends up with a slightly lumpy or uneven responding engine. The Jag V6 engine puts out high power (240BHP) with no modifications, and as such the engine is not being stressed and can be driven smooth or hard with no objections or uneven response through the throttle range. And as the Jag V6 is an all alloy block, it weighs pretty much the same as the Pinto block. As part of the engine change the following items have been upgraded / changed over the last twelve months:- Jag V6 Engine completely stripped and serviced New full set of Ignition Coils New clutch, new clutch slave cylinder and stainless hoses fitted. New Cooling system and triple core alloy radiator A custom full stainless exhaust system (Twin silencer) New Front wishbone bushes throughout New facet Lift pump, ODP Fuel swirl pot, fuel lines and injector fuel pump New custom upgraded driveshaft (NW propshafts) Complete new pedal box assembly for hydraulic clutch and brake bias assembly and custom made stainless braided hoses New matched digital speedo and temp gauges (Smiths classic range) New 16” Wiger Alloy wheels and New Avon ZV5 195/55 front 205/55 rear (Less than 500miles) Replacement 3.14 ratio Diff (rare as hens teeth) which is a far better match for the high power and high torque V6 engine. Quick release steering wheel Great looking red and Black interior and matching seats I have had several long road trips abroad in this car (weeks in France, Germany, Belgium etc) and loads of local runs as well and its performed superbly. Always gets lots of interest especially since the Engine change and brings smiles whenever you are out. Its running great, and ready for the summer sunshine, and starts first time everytime – and with the full wet weather gear you can still enjoy the car even if it rains when you are out and about. This is a very good example and very well maintained 2B, and has wanted for nothing over the years I have owned it. MOT June 2016, tax is £126 for 6 months. I have all previous MOT’s and masses of paperwork / receipts to confirm pretty much every bit of work / parts purchased MOT’s confirm mileage at just over 32K – although its a bit like triggers broom...as the only thing that has not been upgraded / replaced over the years is the suspension arms. This car always turns heads when you are out and about – masses of smiles for the driver and I will be very sad to see it go but time has come to move onto something new. Please feel free to call and take a look or email with any questions or offers. I am more than happy to take anybody out for test drive and answer any questions and look over the kit in the comfort and dry of the garage – a brew is almost compulsory. I am of the opinion that this 2B is one of the better examples available and is in a very small group of kits that have successfully had the V6 engine transplant . The car is priced to sell and ready to go. Dave
  12. I now cant make this due to family / work commitments.......
  13. Ordered a proper facet pump. Lots of 'facet style' on evil bay for around £12, but don't want to mess around with cheap fuel pump. Proper facet posi-flow ordered £26 Still not big bucks. Ta
  14. Obviously I can see loads on eBay.....just don't want to buy something that is pants.....
  15. Following on from my failed fuel pump thread....., I need to buy a new one. Bit lost on what to go for as the original was out of a Mitsubishi I think, Inlet and outlet on one end. I have a spare high pressure pump, but would rather use a Low pressure pump as I understand that's the better option for a lift pump No idea what to go for, any ideas or links for a low pressure pump. Ideally a round case rather than the square facet pump, as it will fit in my existing bracket with little modification. Dave
  16. Well.....after many hours in garage today it all looks to be a faulty Lift pump. Just spotted it was not pumping at all...this morning it was....must have been on its way out, and is now not pumping at all. It makes sense.....after being left for a while, gravity would have filled up the swirl pot....and allowed the engine to start up ......Just need to source another lift pump and hopefully all systems go again Cheers chaps
  17. Ecu is in a dry compartment under the scuttle. Bone dry. Did try swapping injector coil relay and no change.
  18. Cheers Mick, tank has a breather and its been running fine like this with large diam pre filter for 6-12 months
  19. Cheers Steve. Yes, pumps are still running. Not checked spark yet. I did wonder if it was electrical at first as it started doing this after being sat on my drive in the heavy rain, and wondered if a sensor contact had moisture in it. But if it was electrcal I dont understand why it would start up ok cold every time and then start to cut out. And its long since dried out now. One thing I did check last week was reinstalling the emerald software from my backup, and no change. Suppose one of the temp sensors could be faulty sending duff info reducing the fuel from the ecu.....
  20. Got an odd situation that has just started on my 2B Jag V6 last weekend The car has been running fine for the last 6-12 months, so something must have failed or starting to go faulty in the pump or fuel line system I think....... Start up from cold is fine, but after a couple of minutes, its starts to miss as though its running out of fuel, and then eventually cough's splutters and cuts out altogether. It then will not start up again, turns over, but wont ignite as though its run out of fuel. If I go back to the car after say an hour. It will start up as normal and then do the same thing as above after a minutes running. Plenty of fuel in the tank The car has been running perfectly for the last 12ish months on the following set-up:- Fuel tank outlet into Fuel filter Fuel filter into low pressure lift pump (sat slightly lower than tank) Low pressure lift pump into ODP Swirl pot Swirl pot large diameter output into high pressure pump High pressure pump into Filter into fuel rail Fuel rail back through pressure regulator Pressure regulator back to swirl pot Swirl pot back into fuel tank return When it first starts up you can blat the throttle in the garage and it picks up just as normal, but after a minute it simple acts as though its run out of fuel Clearly something has just changed to cause this problem just to start......failed/failing component or something else as its worked perfectly well with this set-up So.....I have been trying to work out what the problem is and struggling This morning I cleaned out the fuel filter (some small bits of crud but nothing significant) I can see and feel that both pumps are working, but have no way of checking the pressure I disconnected the fuel filter at the fuel rail end and fuel was present. I can see fuel is passing from the tank through the first filter and can feel fuel passing through the pipes at the regulator return feed back into the pipe - so clearly the high pressure pump is pushing fuel to the rail. Unfortunately I don't have a pressure gauge on the regulator so cant check if pressure is constant or dropping.... What I don't understand is why it starts up from cold, and then starts playing up. If it was a failed pump I would have though it would simply not work at all, unless the pump works until it gets a little warm after a minute of running and then stops pushing fuel at the required pressure ??? Any suggestion from the masses ?? Ta
  21. I'm coming down for the weekend. Hopefully sort out a small convoy down with others from Oop North
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