deano266

i would suggest leaving it running on the drive for a little bit ensure that anything that is unburnt is either burnt or ejected. For my MOT (i have a superspec with Rover engine) to get it through emissions has to run hot so make sure its arrived just in time for the MOT with the engine already at temperature. 

IN other words let it get nice and toasty before it goes in

Yeah my garage is just wide enough to fit the car in with a tight squeeze down the sides. Jacking up looks like the way to go

If it is an out of shape tyre what's the nest course of action as they were only put on before storage which was around September 

Just beenbdriving the kit in this beautiful (cough cough) weather and a very large vibration was coming through the entire car.

First thought was balancing but garage said was all OK but at speeds like that it won't be tyres. 

Upon inspection one of the propshaft bolts attaching the mt75 gearbox to the shaft is missing the nut and looks snapped. Probably happened at the garage when clutch was done and hadn't noticed or bothered to tell me.

What are the bolts that are required and what torque setting should I use

Thanks

@alanricheythe car has come back and I can confirm the 'superspec rattle' is no more. The mechanic said it was the spigot bearing as when he placed it in when determing the fit he could see it moving (as there was no bearing) along with all the scoring on the shaft and the bushing. Once placed in with a bearing there was very little to no movement and span cleanly in the bearing. 

I would definitely recommend doing it but due to the way the engine and gearbox come out I would only do it when gearbox is coming off anyway 

3 hours ago, alanrichey said:

I've seen the pictures, it would need a miracle to recondition that plate.  

Dean: The code I passed you before (Exedy MZK2100) is the one that Chris used to replace his clutch plate.   Have you tried that ?  Euro Car Parts carry it, you should get a discount with the Club membership.

Yeah I tried but they couldn't find it on the system

And the rimmerbros one didn't go over the splines properly.

Fortunately I went to a local clutch place and he had a Ford spline 215mm clutch so got that.

In terms of the release bearing I asked the mechanic and he said it was clipped in as he had to unclip it out. He is going to modify the arm slightly to accommodate the mt75 release bearing from kitspares as we can get them easily

Okay, the pressure plate is from a rover 420 however the clutch material is where I'm struggling now.

The original was a borg and beck 53131 and struggling to find what that came out of. 

Searching for the exedy mzk 2100 I can't determine what that is from either

this is what happened to the clutch

the reason the metallic rattle happens is due to the play in the shaft that goes in to the bushing. The shaft has a bit of slop in the gearbox, so as it is rotating its hitting and making that noise (or thats at least what he thinks it is). When the bearing is in place we will most definitely find out. In terms of release bearing i have got a proper mt75 release bearing so should be clipped in properly now

Well good and bad news. So bad news first. My clutch was smashed to pieces and looked like it had exploded.

Good news is it can be fixed and the mechanic seems sure he can sort the rattle. He said with the mt75 needle roller it's too small for the gap in the brass bushing, however with some epoxy or metal putty he can place the needle roller in secure it with that in the bushing and this should stop the rattle. 

He did note its not advisable but its the best solution in a bad fitting hole.  He did mention that if the resin fails then it will most likely rattle still and go to the back of the bushing causing no damage so its worth a punt

well i spoke to someone at GBS today and good news gentlemen, they still have clutch parts for the rover t series non turbo, they also noted that they still have loads of parts left for superspecs but not just on the website

@alanrichey can you not use the clutch plate from the  URB10009 0215 or does it need to be the EXEDY MZK2100 for the release bearing 

If we was to get this done at a garage how much would we roughly be looking at?

@alanricheyclutch cable is all in one piece but there is absolutely no movement from the top of the clutch pedal, however whilst I'm at it the cable will be changed so that it's not something I ever have to think about.

I'll get on it and have a look. Hopefully a friendly garage will help me out in lifting it up and out to drop the gearbox out. I will update on how things go and if I can get rid of the rattle that would be amazing

Hi all, took the superspec to be a wedding car and it decided that this was a good idea to get stuck in gear. I can change gear when sat still, however once the engine is running fat chance of that happening. The clutch pedal won't even press more than inch even if I put all my weight on it.

Sooooo, the question is what is the clutch from and how much do we reckon its going to cost?

To be fair there are alot of noises when the clutch pedal is out (normal for superspec) so it does become very hard to hear them.

The only noise thst is new is when I'm trying to move and you can hear everything shaking

Coming home today after a nice drive and some spirited driving my superspec was very violently jumping and shaking the car in 1st gear and when reversing into the garage it was jerki g back and forth making it harder to control at slow speed. When driving gently the car goes into gear smoothly but when accelerating to motorway speeds the car takes an absolute age to go in to gear if chooses to go in.

What could be causing this. It's the rover engine mated to a Ford gearbox

I have wired in my lambda sensor as per Andys drawings. I have the shielded wire going from lambda to the main loom. On Andys drawing it is joined shielding to shielding part. Could I not just take the new shielded wire and connect it to earth or does it need to be connected back to the ecu?

Hi guys. Am I right in thinking that if I connect the shielding from the join to the chassis earth that would be the same as connecting to the shielding

Sorry been busy with work. That's exactly what I did. Put a washer either side of the loop to help it swivel if needed

i have a tow loop bolted to a cross member under the steering rack for the front and never had a problem with it even with the AA. In terms of the rear i have used the roll bar and or the spare wheel hoop

im pretty sure my wiper angle is 105 but i wouldnt do what i did and have the wipers sat in front of the driver. I would have them finish the wiper angle on the drivers side so that ou have maximum visibility

i have recently just stripped and painted mine. I have used hammerite spray. At the moment it is holding up very well but not had much rubbing on it

Hi guys what is the size of the centre hub caps as need to buy some new ones as two wheels that i bought second hand dont have them already attached

TIA

if you want to go low profile, why not consider using sikaflex to the bars then clearance is for the bars only