dandanfireman
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Everything posted by dandanfireman
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S7 Cortina Rear Axle Modification
dandanfireman replied to chris n's topic in Maintenance & Modifications
This appears to have come at the right time, i'm just about to remove and rebuild my rear end on my cortina based S7 and was wondering what the 5 link parts are actually from and where i would go about getting new bushes etc. -
Hiya just found this thread is that of an s7? Thats an awesome job there.
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After all that i found the wiring lying in the transmission tunnel anyway so should be an easy job that would be nice for a change
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Well thats fantastic i shall check that and if removed run a new wire from fuse 5, thanks tractor i've got quite a few splices on switched parts of my loom so just wanted to try it the right way first lol that will help me loads tomorrow cheers
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Ah ok thanks, any idea where the original black wire originated from on the loom? Just trying to figure out where it might be taped off. Thanks though that gives me an idea of whats going on.
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The smith gauges should come with a wiring diagram or at least a link to the car http://www.caigauge.com/ Caerbont Auto should still have all the wiring diagrams thats where i got my details from. +ve feed is from the voltage regulator/stabiliser the other point on the gauge is for daisy chaining one gauge to the other continuing the regulated voltage supply along the chain. They are all earthed via the lightbulb connector which makes a huge surface area for earth. Thats the wiring done, then make sure you have the right senders for the relevant gauges (temp and oil maybe fuel). I'm reiterating some info already said which is spot on just covering some bits i needed to know.
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Check the connections to the indicators nearest the indicators as over time the wires can corrode and or snap depending on age of car. Check connections for lights for the indicators on the dash aswell and then if that doesn't work remove the multi-connectors for the stalks and spray with WD40 or similar and use the indicators back and forth. If that doesn't sort it start checking for poor earths.
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Hi guys, just getting round to fitting a set of reverse lights i've had for 10 years or so lol. I believe the type9 sensor is a switched live affair? running fused from the ignition or somewhere, mine was clearly not destined for that but has anyone got a clue what colour the wire would be that originally fed the sensor? I have an old sensor plug but it may not be the same loom (its black one one wire and black with a blue stripe on the other). Any help would be appreciated, or alternated methods of fitting if its easier Thanks guys
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Thanks guys for the help, things have changed since i first rebuilt the S7 in 2003 there were no upgrades apart from the Princess 4 pot back then. The brakes have always been fine for my driving though so i'll keep them as they are i reckon, just with pistons that actually move lol. Big red pistons it is.
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Hi guys turns out the pistons in my type 16's are all corroded and they are really not fit for refurb. Any ideas where to get decent price replacements?
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Pinto With 1600Gt Rev Counter Wrong Revs
dandanfireman replied to dandanfireman's topic in Electrics
Any ideas? -
Pinto With 1600Gt Rev Counter Wrong Revs
dandanfireman replied to dandanfireman's topic in Electrics
I'll have a look but i'm pretty sure the unit has a +12v feed and an earth. The part i'm talking about is the pulse lead that runs from the coil -ve. I'll check the smith instruments but i think thats ok. Sorry for any confusion. -
Pinto With 1600Gt Rev Counter Wrong Revs
dandanfireman replied to dandanfireman's topic in Electrics
Its an efi pinto running a standard ford motorparts electronic dizzy. The coil -ve is spliced and then runs through the back of the 1600gt tacho and back to the coil again. Unsure if there is anything further back on the loom that could be a suppressor. Its currently reading around 3000 rpm at idle. -
Hi guys any ideas how to lower the revs on a standard pulse tacho thats from a 1600 crossflow to that of a 2000 ohc pinto? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Dan
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Hi guys been a while, i've put a new rad in the Robin Hod which has no header built in. The only thing left is the original air bleed off point which i will now use as the filler . Any idea on a remote header tank for it? Not looking to go pressurised just staying standard.
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Hi guys i'm getting around to rebuilding my airesearch turbo and i've gotten to taking off the main compressor nut and am not sure how i should take this off. My reason for stopping is that i understand that the Garrett t3 has a left hand thread on the compressor nut and i'm not sure if the early airesearch ones are the same as the t3. I don't want to give it a tap and shear the shaft, also the rear end of the turbine shaft at the hot end has a triangluar socket shape on it, how would i go about holding this in place? I've tried mole grips but they still seem to slip. Any advise would be very welcome.
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Thanks Ken, was really just looking for a rebuild kit rather than a complete new cartridge. I know someone on here mentioned one before in a previous thread but can't for the life of me remember it.
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Well i've removed the pcv valve completely and just left the separator on the car and left the oil cap and crankcase to vent to air on tickover. I believe this has enabled the engine to breathe properly as this helped the turbo leak much easier and much quicker. So with oil leaking everywhere from the hot housing i took it apart and found the exhaust downpipe from the turbo soaked in oil inside, however the hot side of the turbine did not appear to have any oil on it? Is that normal? Would it be so hot it would burn off or would i find oil on the hot side turbine? Either way the turbo is now off and ready to go to someone to rebuild it, so does anyone know anyone who does turbo rebuilds in the hertfordshire/bedfordshire/cambridgeshire area as i'd like this fixed this year. If i have the time i may rebuild the turbo myself so does anyone have any advice on who to buy rebuild kits from on ebay as there are a lot of *bleep*ty ones out there lol. Again thanks for your help guys.
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Before I go with a rebuild is there anyone who knows the restrictor size i should be running on a t3 in a pinto please? Should check that before I do the turbo i think.
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Ok thanks i'll leave it in some diesel or some sort for a week or two and then pressure wash it. Anyone got any advise on guys from ebay in uk who have been known to sell decent t3 rebuild kits? Also is there any difference in rebuild kits between oil housings that are oil fed or oil and water fed? Cheers Dan
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Ok guys will poke a length of 6mm pipe through the separator tomorrow and see if it makes it all the way through as it seems free flowing to me, will update on what i find. Still reckon the best route for now is to rebuild the dry t3 I have as they are like hens teeth (unless anyone has one kicking around on here of course?) So does anyone have any advise on where to get a t3 rebuild kit?
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Yes its a strange shape, how do you get the separator apart? Seems to breath ok but would like to know how to stop any blockage in it so its a straight flow. Cheers Guys.
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Yes Peter the SS100 Replica is still around just work and other commitments have meant neither have been on the road for about 5 years. Anyone know a decent place to get dry t3 rebuild kits from ? as its proving difficult to find another dry t3. After reading up on the t3 i've found there is a second drain point from the rear of the journal bearing which can get blocked up and cause this same effect. Also the oil thats leaking out is pitch black not sure if that makes a bit of difference?
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Thanks for the help guys i may have gotten confused between the separator and PCV valve, originally I had a small round Ford Motorparts item with a rubber grommet in the top which then has a smaller item that plugs into it that looks like a filter After realising this filter was just to sort out the crap so it isn't vacuum sucked into the plenum i realised I didn't need this on the turbo. So in short what I have is the lower hole in the crankcase which has a standard ford item with the grommet in (does this make sense) that may be the separator? the pipe then goes from this to the catch tank above the hole in the block. Is that right? That is what the system looks like as of now. The breathing is fine, no oil in catch tank, or from oil filler point. I will clean out both breather items and rebuild turbo me thinks. Let me know if i've missed anything thanks. And Hi Peter been a while but i'm still about.......just
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Right then, thanks Ken. I get the feeling the turbo needs a full rebuild and coke clean. The turbo and engine I have no idea on the age, condition is unknown, winding down and cooling unknown. I have never ran it cold and revved it and as its always had an oil leak issue but i thought that was either oil return issue or breather problems. The breather is breathing through a standard pcv valve which has no vacuum aiding it (I have read about drilling out a hole in the standard round Ford Motorparts PCV valve to help breathing but since i have changed to a catch tank the oil leak around the turbo is much worse. I have read on a T3 rebuild website that the T3 has a second small drain hole behind the journal bearing and that this can often get coked up but either way it all certainly seems to point to you being right Ken and that after all other things being ok it seems the turbo must be the weakest link. Would drilling out a hole in the breather valve aid to breathing i wonder ?