cb750

If it's the rigid type you may be able to get it off using the fishing line method. Use the fishing line as a flexible saw. Done that with other car badges.

I had something similar when I first bought my car. I found that there was corrosion on the inner cable which moved into the outer as you pushed the pedal down jamming it.

There shouldn't be any signs of the copper backing either. I've also used Plastigage to check the actual bearing clearance.

Look for a non-ferrous fabrication company, clean the sump well and take it with you. Ask nicely and you may get it done. That's what I've done before.

This is the current form on the dvla site, I can't see the wording "or less than 3 years old" https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/707632/v112-declaration-of-exemption-from-mot.pdf

It looks like an mot is required after 1 year. If you look on the back of the V112 form it says: "Categories of vehicles that are exempt:" "Section r (GB only) A vehicle other than a public service vehicle registered or manufactured 40 years ago and which has not been substantially changed in the last 30 years." Then: "The following vehicles (including motorcycles) are to be considered as substantially changed, unless they are taxed as an “historic vehicle” and have not been modified during the previous 30 years: • A vehicle issued with a registration number with a ‘Q’ prefix." Since they are now considering Q reg as substantially changed then you apparently can't now claim exemption and an mot would be required.

Glad you've found out what was happening. What was the endoscope that you bought (I assume it was off eBay)?

Got my arms and blades from Car Builder Solutions. The arms are the adjustable length type.

I would be looking at increasing the bend at the end of the arm to twist the blade anti-clockwise as it looks as if the bottom ends are hitting the windscreen lower rail then repositioning the arms more anti-clockwise to bring the blade down nearer the bottom of the windscreen

It may have been cut and welded to give more side clearance at the gearbox tunnel.

Should have the car back on the road at the weekend after having to have my replacement diff rebuilt as it had gone noisy after only 150 miles. I can highly recommend Bara Motorsport at Bromsgrove. Although they normally only do full rebuilds Bara agreed to check the diff whilst I was there and decide what was needed to be done. It needed new pinion bearings, shim, collapsible spacer, and new castle nut. He also swapped the ring and pinion for a replacement that I had. Left it with him and collected it next day. Good fast service!

I think he's on Facebook as redseven engineering - Richard Marsh Rob

Shaftec won't deal with the general public, only through dealers. They sell the right hand shaft, part number FO129R but the left is not available and they don't know when it will be. I don't have the original Ford shafts, only the J & R ones and they are not rebuildable. A driveshaft company in Willenhall thought they could help with a refurbed unit but couldn't in the end. Ford rebuild parts for the original Ford shafts appear not to be available but appear occasionally on eBay.

Never seen them in our local shops.

Does anyone know where I can get a new or guaranteed remanufactured passenger side rear driveshaft for my Hood? The donor vehicle was a 1985 Sierra 2 litre with drum brakes. 26 spline push in type. Shaftec don't do them, their part number was FO129L. I know about J & R but theirs had wear in them after 1200 miles and you had to dismantle the inner cv joint to get them installed as they are too big in diameter to go through the hole in the swinging arm in the normal way. Sourcing a drivers side shaft is no problem as they are still available

I believe CBS do these "big head" fasteners

As above, there should be no free play in the bearing. Have you jacked the wheel up and checked for play at the wheel rim? I've changed 3 sets of bearings on a Sierra based car and they are straight forward to do. The large nut removal is the difficult bit. As the preload is set by the original machining of the parts, make sure everything is clean on reassembly and all preservative is removed off the bearing outer faces.

I'm pretty sure that mine is QCC1585

I used pieces of perforated stainless steel with welded studs. These are bonded into place using Tigerseal. The studs are used to fasten plastic pipe clips in place to snap over my round section stays, if yours are flat perhaps they could be drilled to take the studs? The clip and stay are drilled to take a small safety bolt.

I use the 2wd cosworth one

Not familiar with R1 carbs but if they've got diaphragms then check that they aren't split. If they are split then that carb won't admit fuel correctly

I believe you have to be a member to start a post in the Wanted section. Non-members can reply to it.

What engine and gearbox setup do you have? On my pinto/type 9 setup it's dead easy and can hook it up just by sticking my head and shoulders under the side without really getting right under the car.

Anyone got a left side rear driveshaft available? Looking for the 26 spline type.

Have you had the cover plate off and looked inside the diff? Is there enough backlash on the ring/pinion teeth?