gomatthome

Having stripped my 2b i have for sale my stainless steel chassis. it comes complete with the side panels and rear panels fitted and the rear wheel arches all in stainless, oh and of course the floor. I have left the break pipes fitted and the flow and return fuel pipes The pedal box is also fitted but could consider separate sale if no offer for the complete package is received. the front upper and lower wishbones are also fitted and included but again could be sold separately if not sold as a package. This chassis would be ideal for anyone wanting to rebuild their 2b after an accident etc when i can work out how to resize photos on an apple i will post some photos As i have no trailer it will be collection only from Sheffield. Price £650

i will be there in tin top again. the engine is now in the zero but no chance on the road for the GBS open day next target stafford phil

have meetings in Morpeth on friday so may not be joining you till saturday morning, got the Zero onto all four wheels this evening. phil

extended steering rack as supplied by GBS for the 2b. - £40 can deliver to newark show if anyone interested. Phil

photo of exhaust attached will bring to newark so you can have a look phil

doors now sold Phil

will take a photo the bit not sue about is reducing the size to get post it cant do now till monday phil

Nick fuel pump yours will bring along to newark unless you want to collect phil

Hood sold - and came round to my hose this morning and collected. Only doors now available £75 ish phil

Complete injection unit just as taken from my 2l pinto as am converting to bike carbs so no longer needed, nothing removed so comes complete with injectors etc etc any questions please ask. if of interest can bring to newark for inspection . delivery price say £60 also have a used (i think its about 3 years old) high pressure fuel pump for the pinto efi system price say £15. finally have a used but in good condition 4 into 1 stainless exhaust manifold for the 2 l pinto 2b as produced by GBs price say £75 again can bring along to newark phil

No longer needed so have available my 2b wet full wet weather gear ie hood, doors, hoops and brackets and stainless hinges. Hood has not been used much so no tears or cracks. doors have been used but still in fair condition. Can bring along to Newark show for inspection / collection. Price - £195 Phil

if this was not your fault you will be able to recover your costs from the other side. have the other sides insurers been in contact with you ? if they are accepting liability they should talk directly with you and arrange repair / compensation direct provide loan car discuss any treatment you require etc etc. if there is a dispute as to liability you will need to go through your insurers but make sure they are fully aware of the circumstances phil

As suggested by Nick i swapped over the back plates from left to right and visa versa. GBS also suggested this when i spoke with them this lunchtime. Fitted the half shafts and everything now lines up. The slave cylinder still faces towards the front of the car but at least the hand break cable comes into the back plate at the top rear so wont foul on the suspension. Not sure how you got yours to fit with the slave cylinder facing the rear of the car but i guess it does not matter which direction it faces after all on the original sierra set up the slave cylinder is at the top. Any other Zero builders using drum breaks on the rear should note this swapping back plate solution. Next step to finish tightening up the diff and recheck all the suspension bolts are fully tight and then all four wheels can go on and hey will have a rolling chassis. Phil

trying to fit the half shafts. are the hub carriers handed? only orientation i can get the half shafts line up with the holes in the hub carrier puts the drum back plate 180% out ie the slave cylinder is towards the front of the car which seems wrong. suggestions please phil

Boncaster is very cheap and it covers you and your spouse for any vehicle. Only down side is that you have to pay for the recovery up front and then re-claim so you need to remember to have your credit card with you. They recover within the hour just like AA etc. When i had my SVA test i did break down and the recovery was great and my claim was settled in full in less than a week. Anything can go wrong the first time you go out on the road (mine was a fuel pump failure) so i would strongly recommend break down insurance it will be much cheaper than paying for recovery back to your home address. If you haggle with the AA they will reduce their costs a lot. Again its the driver thats covered not the car you can get cover that includes the other half and i think it even covers you if you are in someone else's car and that breaks down (you will need to check this out). Phil

will be there - have to accelerate the Zero build and see if i can get it ready for then - something to aim for. Phil

Have now had chance to check coil - not getting hot and also switched coils this is not the problem. earth looks ok -so don't think this is the prob checked the fuel tank is venting so not this. also checked as far as i can without taking all the wiring to bits and cant see any obvious shorts / loose plugs But still it fires up ok when cold and then after five mins stops and wont start again very frustrating. not sure what to check next has anyone had a similar problem in the past if cant sort out looks like will be missing Stoneley phil

thanks will check both the earthing and the temp of the coil phil

Looking for suggestions. i am currently having a problem with the running of my engine which is a standard 2l pinto on standard injection. The car will start and runs for about five mins at which point it just dies and wont start again for about 15 mins. When cold it will start agin but again only for a short time. Recent circumstances:- On the way back from the last RH open day (very wet on way home) the car ran ok for first 5 to 10 miles and then stopped it then started again but was running at best on 3 cylinders or so it seemed but got me the 30 or so miles back home. i put this down to water in the electrics as it was fine on the way there. Have not had the car out on the road again until wed night this week as am currently building a Zero so this is where i am concentrating my time. However i did have time to take the head off as the oil stem seals needed replacing and at the same time took the opportunity to re grind the valves. i used all new gaskets and bolts etc when replacing the head. Timing is set up ok i am sure that the problem does not lie here but mention it just in case its relevant. I am sure its an electrical problem and before i start stripping everything down to check for shorts / bad connections i just thought i would ask if anyone has any suggestions where to look. The fuel pump is working so i dont think this is where the problem is. oh and yes there is fuel in the tank. any helpful suggestions? phil

will be there with loads of build questions phil

subject for the next sheffield meet then phil

i have recently read the various threads regarding this subject but thought i would ask what to some might seem like a very basic question. I am building a Zero and have taken the decision to take the injection system off my 2l pinto which i will be using as my donor. In the Zero i just want to get rid of the massive injection lump to give me more space and hopefully gain some extra performance. Also the carb solution just looks so much better I know their are other engine options which may be better but i already have a good pinto in my 2b and a spare on the garage floor and intend to use this in the Zero on the grounds of cost. I have already purchased a set of fireblade bike carbs which are currently with GBS for them to attach to their inlet manifold. i have purchased their new plug in loom as part of the Zero kit as this will give me a much tidier and hopefully easier wiring solution in terms of fitting to the fierblade carbs to the car i am told that i will also need a megajolt or similar system as well. Is this the case or are their cheaper / any alternatives. if megajolt is the way to go does anyone have a link to the best value for money supplier and can anyone point me to instructions as to what i need to do. i have searched the site but a lot of the replies seem to anticipate an understanding of how to do the conversion in the first place and therefore concentrate on the merits of different systems. What i need to find is a set of instructions which adopt a step by step approach for someone like myself who is prepared to admit that this will be the first time they have attempted anything like this. Hopefully one kind soul out there will be willing to spend some time setting out some instructions - providing a link to these as i cant be the only member who would find this very useful. Regards Phil

am intending doing the same conversion. mine is currently an injection model. where on the NW site will i find the Dizzy info as cant seem to find it. phil

Andy i changed mine whilst the engine was in bit of a fiddle but you do need to raise the engine a bit to give you some working space. As graham says he has the kit (my engine hoist) if you need to gain that extra bit of room. phil