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Tazza67

Community user
  • Content Count

    49
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About Tazza67

  • Rank
    Builder
  • Birthday 12/03/1990

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Exmo
  • Full name
    S Taylor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Cornwall
  1. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Cheers Dan will get one of those sorted! So hopefully now on to the last stage in the saga... pretty happy so far - everything seems to now be working as it should bar the indicators being a tad fast, but that's on the list to be sorted. Battery feed and Ignition feed are working, starting feed thou... I labelled up what I removed with the old loom so I have compared that to the Haynes manual and come up with two different circuits. Heres what I took off: Black ring off to the left went to the starter then next to the fuel pump and ignition module the black connector... which has: - Black red wire to the starter - Black blue to the ignition switch for starting - Brown white not connected - Brown green not connected - Green yellow not connected - Thin black wire in bottom right goes to a black yellow which was the ignition feed on the switch My question is if I 'simply' plug the: - Black blue to the ignition switch - Black red to the starter - Connector in Will it work? Or am I going to need to crimp the black wire into the ignition feed wire...
  2. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    And we are working! Indicators are going twice the rate but I'm guessing that's down to me using LED's and ignoring/hoping it would work... problem for another day there. Also brake fluid warning tell now sorted by topping up the brake fluid - oops! However pressing the handbrake switch doesn't appear to change the tells state :/ Cheers guys!
  3. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Thanks Ian, I think that's what I have so will give it a go when next out at the car.
  4. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Ah Nigel you may have it... I've connected to pin 56 not 54... obvious next question is do I need the ingnition live feed to both or just pin 54? Thanks!
  5. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    OK so help maybe required... couple of issues now the excitement has worn off. 1) I have a KOSO digi dash RX2N - it lights up as expected with ignition and goes through its initial cycle. Currently I have GND, battery power and iginition power to it along with LH and RH indicators. Once through the initial cycle all the tell lights are staying lit... is there a reset button I haven't found yet? A quick google has shown nothing so far... as I have some of the tells connected up and others currently not I expected a bit of a mix to light up but not all! 2) Hazards work well however I currently don't have indicators working off the stalk... looking at the Haynes manual I am struggling to identify exactly where the power feed comes from for the indicators, Hazards appear to be H(30) pin on the LHS stalk.... 3) Low brake fluid level warning - so fuse to tell tale, other side of tell tale to the brake fluid sender. Brake fluid sender has GND, tell in and handbrake switch in. Then handbrake switch to GND. Issue is in it's current state it's connected straight to GND (handbrake on)... is that right? Something tells me no but I can't figure out why... Thanks in advance for any help!
  6. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    So this is a novelty I am finally able to post about what I have done today! Day 5 Today was interesting... First up was fuse and relay board into the car and started to connect them up. I did the relays to switches and thinner wires first then moved onto the outputs from the relays. Then onto connecting all the leads that were labelled up yesterday to the fuse box. Grounds were fairly simple and luckily a ground point already located under the dash. Finally power from the battery and then onto the ignition etc. I'm aware I currently don't have connections to the fuel pump or starter motor but want to get this part of the circuit correct first then I can hopefully add off it. Worth noting I have left the wires with enough length on them that the fuse/relay board can sit in an accessible place in the footwell incase of trouble solving etc. Which went from this: To this: (some of the eagle eyed may spot the issue already...) All in all I was pretty chuffed with myself and spent a few minutes going through ensuring I hadn't missed anything silly... or so I thought! Not knowing any better I decided that I wanted to try it... so negative terminal on and then onto the positive terminal - that ended in a bang and some smoke so was very quickly disconnected and a hasty look into the footwell revealed an overheated wire and small 'thermal incident'. After the heart rate had calmed damage was inspected... a C shaped indent in the carpet, one very stripped wire which has nicked a couple of the other smaller wires and the stripped insulation has attached itself to the main power feed insulation. - Could of been much worse! Carpet and insulation now removed. Luckily the BF then messaged and after a quick update, he explained other continuity checks that should of been performed before power added... doh! Also I had wired the car up exactly as the wiring diagram had it... we then noticed that one of the wires was from an initial idea for the power feed and actually not needed which happened to be the one that had fried, that was cut out. Checks on the battery feed busbar showed continuity to ground, process of elimination showed it to be the horn/hazard fuse and then the relay... the relay was actually found to be at fault which was surprising considering it's brand new. The same checks continued with the low brake fluid warning circuit also found to have an issue... still to be investigated but unplugged for now. Finally once happy it was time to go back to the battery again... I was nervous so decided to hold a fuse to the battery terminal and then use it to the feed wire... no pop! Another quick check on current draw with the multi-meter showed 0.01A - perfectly reasonable. Then the test of the lights etc - all good! Boundaries were pushed and ignition switch turned... same system with fuse to battery terminal for confidence then the multimeter showed 0.8A - digi dash accountable for this. Finally another lights check - no indicators but otherwise all good and SUPER BRIGHT! (shows it really needed doing) So bit of an interesting day, definitely kept the learning curve going! Apart from the small mishap I'm pretty happy - no way I could of done this a couple of months ago and the car is already in a better place than it was before I started. Thanks go to the tech support even while he's in the alps!
  7. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Thanks guys definitely speeding up through it now Onto Day 4 First up was to sort the fuse and relay 'box', so I meant to make this up before I headed home for the week but work got in the way and I only managed to mock it up and cut the panels... therefore plan is leave a bit of excess wire so I can cut and recrimp through the side walls when finished but for now I'll just be using it as a back board. Start: Card template done: New workshop due to the rain: And the end result: Busbars will be getting some covering to stop any potential rubbing but for now left open again. I then took advantage of the dry workshop, mum wasn't happy that I had apparently taken over the house! Fly leads made up and labelled up from fuse box outwards... Main reason for this was I wanted to spend as little time upside down with my head in the footwell. All of this was then transported to the car and it was largely a case of joining up the dots almost and following colours. End of the day saw the car looking alot more like a rats nest again... but hopefully a relatively tidy rats nest! Next is connect up the fuse/relay board and hopefully put power to it!
  8. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Thanks guys! Day 3 Plan for the day was to connect up the LHS to RHS, I thought I would be struggling for time on the car and also the cornish weather had picked up so although nice and warm it was also very windy, add to that everyone seeming to require the back gate open and working on the floor turned into a dusty mess. First job was to sort out the front and rear chassis grounds, previously I had used the same stud as a fuel line which is an obvious no-no (learning here) and that saw the drill out and new ground found next to the diff at the back and RHS corner of the engine bay, as this is on the cable routing run. Then at the rear to be joined LHS to RHS were: - Sidelights - Brake lights - Reverse Along with those I extended the wiring through to the drivers side of the cockpit for: - Fog lamp - LHS Turn signal - RHS Turn signal Same then repeated for the front end. Which left a bundle of wire in the cockpit: With a bit of spare time I decided to get n with connecting front to back so: - LHS turn signal - RHS turn signal - Sidelights Which left me with: Judging the exact length of wire proved a bit tricky so I went for the cautious side and added approx an extra 200mm on most lengths or just left the rest of the wire bundle in the footwell for later. That was going to be it for the day until a quick message to the other half and I was reminded that I could see if my progress was actually going to work... temptation overtook and all were quickly checked with 12V... ...ALL PASSED!! Also twin air horns are really LOUD - Dad and I were expecting it yet both jumped! All in all a very happy day of progress
  9. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Onto Day 2 The plan was to get everything upto the lamp side of the connectors done. First job star with the rear lights as I had more space and easier layout. Previous wiring in the arches had been another rats nest with tracing wires very difficult and also some exposed wires, knowing they are in a high impact area I decided a bit of extra sleeving couldn't hurt, just more time and I made quite a few mistakes when remembering to add it before connecting both ends. Sorry Nigel I am going to disappoint throughout with the type of crimps I am using I understand the point however we have used them at work on the electric cars and not seen any issues (yet). All connections are given a very firm tug test once done, I'd much rather they fail now than on the car! The boot space makes a nice workbench: The new wire was left strung up around the banister for a few nights to help straighten it out, also work mats from Halfords a very well spend £8. Armed with the laptop showing the new wiring diagram and the A3 card showing the colours of the existing wires work began... Initially I wanted the connectors as close to the diff as possible to protect them from damage but obviously if I ever need to remove a wing the connector would be stuck the wrong side of a panel so they were relocated to the arches - I'll keep an eye on them and probably create a couple of little shields to stop any stones. Having never played with the econoseal connectors in anger before it took a couple of youtube videos and attempts to get them right, it's now super easy! Each of the wires from the rear lamps basically took the same process and once one side had been figured out the second went alot quicker. Most of the time I would: 1) Strip the remaining left overs from the old harness 2) Prep the wires that were remaining 3) Figure out the connector location (shown by blue tape) 4) Figure out GND's 5) Figure out length of wire needed from connector to lamp 6) Strip wires ends 7) Add econoseal crimp Add sleeving as required 9) Add thru crimp or termial Effectively the green wire to the one on the right: Worth noting at this point that all connections are given a very firm tug test once done, I'd much rather they fail now than on the car! Continuity checks are also done, just to be sure - I really don't want to have to work backwards too much! The sleeving can be pulled back a bit to reveal what colour wire it is. This then left the wheel arch wiring looking something like this: I've decided for the thru crimps I will go round everything at the end, once everything is working (I hope!), and use the heat gun to shrink wrap them up. For now I didn't want a hot bit of metal anywhere the dogs or I could touch easily. That's looking 100 times better than what was there and will be covered again with some more protective wrapping but until it's all proven good I will be leaving stuff relatively open incase I need to fiddle further. That was then repeated for the LHS, once all done and the connector housing added another round of continuity checks were done from the bulbs to the econoseal connectors.... pleased to say they all worked! I then moved on and did the: - Side repeaters in the wings - Headlamps including Main, dipped and sidelights - Nose cone indicators Couple of pics: Continuity checks on the headlamps were left , I basically ran out of time, rightly or wrongly I was confident with the rest of the connectors so fingers crossed and time will tell! And that was it for day 2, I was rather pleased with progress for the day. Oh and tug and continuity test stats stood at: Tugs: 2 fails on the thru crimps Continuity: 1 fail as I hadn't plugged the connector in...oops!
  10. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    So the steep learning curve continues... apologies for the lack of updates I've been a tad wrapped up. I'm now home for my week of wiring fun. I think it's worth pointing out that both dad and the BF have said they'll be impressed if it's 100% finished by the time I leave, therefore it's very much CHALLENGE ON! (we are classing finished as all working not all clipped into place and secured nicely) Also a big point to note is the battery was flat when I got to it and therefore didn't start - I may come back to this as a valid excuse by the end of the week Day 1 This week saw a brave pill being taken - Old loom (rats next) removal - Finally after a couple of hours and alot of getting into awkward places it's off! The excitement soon wore off with the realisation the car may not start for a while :/ but that mess wasn't going back in the car time to press on... So I figured it was well worth comparing the old loom to what I was expecting to replace it with... I had already noted that the fuel pump and another connector were on the main run around the engine bay that aren't on my list so will have to be figured out... It took about another 2 hours but I managed to strip a large part of the old loom tape and shielding off to see exactly where everything went. Also managed to get rather covered in black sticky stuff from the old tape - lesson learnt the new loom isn't having electrical tape anywhere near it once finished! And that was day 1 finished.
  11. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Thanks for all the comments and help guys! My first attempt at my fuse / relay box layout looks like it may be a little big... currently approx 320mm x 140mm (height not yet decided as less of a restriction). Here's the roughly drawn out layout... the components to go in it are slowly turning up so it can be refined a bit. Location wise only issue with the engine bay is water ingress that I can see... I'll do some more paint drawings or a sketch of my current plan for it so we can have some opinions. Snowy2, The tell tales I am planning on using are bulbs apart from the digi dash which I have lit up before and I'm assuming (I know you never should) it's made for the job with appropriate resistors in the unit... time will tell! Give me just over a week and I may well be eating my words on that one! Thanks, Suzanne
  12. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    CB750, Can I ask how big your fuse/relay box is? I've spent the evening mocking up how mine will look, admittedly only powerpoint for now, and it's rather big compared to my expectations.... Also where does everyone recommend for fuse/relay box location? Plan was under the dash / passenger footwell but I am wondering about the space in the engine bay in between the battery and brake/steering column boxing. Largely to make getting to the box easier. Thanks, Suzanne
  13. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Hi Florin, Fingers crossed then but thanks for the heads up - I'll report back when they arrive. Hi Nigel, Thanks for the thoughts. KOSO I need to double check but good point, I remember having a play a few months ago and think I'm safe but we shall see... hopefully a fairly easy swap if not. As far as the tells go: Hazard - in the switch as you say Sidelights - separate tell Main beam - digi dash Turn signals - digi dash Rear fog - separate switch with built in tell LBF- is a separate tell Lights on tell tale... I thought I read somewhere that if you can change the dash illumination to on or off in the settings it wasn't allowed? Therefore I was planning to go with a separate tell but would happily get rid of that if possible... Think that's all. Thanks, Suzanne
  14. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    Forgot to add I've spec'd the fuse ratings... open to thoughts! Horn + hazard 25A Sidelights 15A Dipped beam 20A Main beam 20A Headlamp switch + fog 10A Reverse + brake 10A Handbrake + digi dash 10A LHS stalk power 15A Thanks
  15. Tazza67

    Exmo Re-Wire

    So I am now happy enough with the wiring diagram that I think it's ready to have a go on the car with. Final diagram here: Wires and relays have been ordered, I found CBS was the cheapest for wire - especially the 12 colours x 10m bundle. I've also ordered a bulk buy of fuses as I am guaranteed to blow some while playing around with this chassis. (previous experience, determined to get better at it) Fuse/Relay box: Still to be finalised - I like some of the ideas on here but want to go for attempting to make my own similar to cb750 (cheers for the idea). More to come on this when the parts arrive... I'll likely put a large part of this together while in the Midlands. Busbars, fuse box and relay holders all on order. Total cost so far: Wire approx £40 2 x tell tales £7 2 x Bus bar £16 5 x relay + holders £8 5x 6pin through to 1pin super seal connectors £20 (includes expedited postage) Crimp through connectors £5.50 36piece fuse kit £2 Grand total of £98.50 I have a bulk buy of crimp connectors already at home so a few quid for that, but basically on target of £100! Don't know how £100 stacks up against anyone else? Thanks, Suzanne
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