Snapperpaul

I would normally use 8-10 at idle for a standard cam and 34 to 36 at 3,600rpm More cam and more compression I would expect a bit more at idle and 32-34 max

If you have a strobe check the actual timings at idle then at 100rpm, 2,000rpm 3,000rpm and find where your max advance is. Should be 3,600 to 3,800 but could be as low as 3,200. I thought acuspark had a screw setting on the dizzy that gave you different curve options You add your static(idle timing to the acuspark timing i.e. 10 degrees static plus 24 degrees maximum which gives 34 degrees at 3,600rpm

The monocoque has 180lb rear springs and truly shocking (sic) shock absorbers called zimmerides basically motor bike shocks with threaded tubes for adjustable spring platforms If the springs are standard 180lb ones and you are honestly 11 stone then the springs are OK I would look at replacing the shocks with something like Gas or ProTec adjustable but set the adjuster to about 3 clicks from the least amount of adjustment and tweak as necessary

There are a selection of posts about how to reinforce the chassis and I have done most of them. You can search this forum using my forum name, Snapperpaul and others such as Big Jim. I have a lot of info about the monocoque chassis but to much to post, u2u with your email and Ill compile all the info and photos I have on the subject. A quick fix for the sender is to use an old oil filter seal. The studs welded to the tank distort it if you over tighten, I drilled out 2 pieces of steel bar and bridged 2 studs using the 2 bars to pull down the sender, this gives a more even pressure

You have to follow the Megajolt worrying diagram exactly only earthing as described i.e. only at one end. Cable from the VR sensor should be shielded and that is earthed at the EDIS

My misfire was a little more random but essentially there is a break in the cable but not a clean break so the 2 ends of the wires are in contact, sometimes there are a few threads of cable still connected. A vibration can happen at a specific harmonic that pulled the wires apart and/or the signal is to weak for the ECU to register. The signal required is a square wave if that is degraded into a confusing signal the ECU may disregard it. I often had a backfire which turned out to be a non ignition event followed by normal ignition that ignited unburned fuel in the exhaust.

So good to hear that youve solved it mate Its what clubs do, provide solutions from hard earned experience. Youll never forget the solution and can pass it on

Crank position sensor, probably the wiring in the plug. I ended up having to replace the plug and support the plug and wire with a short ally bar. With the Crank position sensor bolted to the bracket the plug does not move but the wires which only connect to the plug by the inner 2 wires. You will have removed the outer cover to wire the plug. The wire will flex like hell, took me several goes to figure it out.

Nothing wrong with a 90s tranny with a female thread! Ops sorry wrong forum...

Yes Transit ball joints, a search will give you specific part numbers. If you search my posts you will find the reinforcements I did to the tub/chassis. I have not suffered from tub cracks except for the underboot floor which again is well documented

CCTV is as only as good as the camera lens and then the resolution of the video chip You want high pixel count and 1080p or above or you just wont capture enough detail to recognise a the crim or read a number plate Most domestic CCTV cameras are wide angle so you can cover a lot of area but cant recognise a face, this only makes you even more frustrated. CCTV cameras are however a deterrent, its known as Hardening the target make them look elsewhere. There are lots more tactics you can apply and I would encourage you to consult the local Police for advice and they will give out ultraviolet permanent markers and windo stickers to say that stuff is marked. Its like making your car faster, power, torque, brakes, handling, adding lightness

You can modify for wishbone which is a really good idea. Somewhere I have photos of the way you do it as a mate did this.

I have had a very busy 2 years since the Hood let me down a few days prior to LeMans 24, I will get it running properly & motd by the end of the year. I am also throwing a bit of money at the new (Old) Fisher Fury project

I am thinking about that but also want their case and oil modifications

I use the V6 type 9 with 3.92 diff on 14 wheels now with 195-60 Revs gives me the edge with this setup as I can exceed 7,000rpm with one engine and near 8,000rpm with the other. Peak bhp is an issue as I wanted a street car I still want a low first gear

Value off the scale usually means the sensor isnt earthed to the block properly, did you use ptfe tape or sealant? Also check wiring for continuity I did have a gauge that had wires transposed same reading off the gauge as a bad earth

I run a Telemetrix (Smiths) speedo running of magnets on the rear prop flange. You need to glue the magnets on with 24Hr araldite and make sure the gap to the sensor is correct. Sensor bracket should be firmly mounted to prevent any vibration movement

As Longboarder says 450 ideal Check earths, I have thick cables from starter motor to bell housing bolt and another from engine block all to the same point the battery earths to

Wasted spark just needs a trigger wheel to read from and throttle position or manifold actual pressure. If the dizzy does not drive anything else (such as oil pump on a Pinto) you can bin it

I fully sealed the bulkhead with expanding foam and metallic trunking tape but my feet still got hot where the 4 branch gets close to the footwell. My solution was the cover the inside with heat mat and the outside with similar, I wrapped the manifold and the final light bulb moment was to just prop the rear of the bonnet 5mm. Heat rises and the wide gap lets a lot of heat out. I then hid the washer jets bellow the bonnet

Its quite stark how different a car with no braking and stability aids performs. We are all cosseted by our tin tops. I have noted on several occasions that our light cars are prone to locking up and the only way out of a lockup is to ease off the brakes which is a tough call, or cadence braking which in my humble opinion is pub talk unless your an old school rally driver. So good you only shook up German/British relations

4 in to 1 manifold was supplied by Robin Hood back in the day so it will work fine. Purists will tell you 4-2-1 better for torque and 4-1 better for top end. Exhaust manifold tuning is a black art and uses shock wave reflection from the exhaust valve and is controlled by manifold tube length and diameter using a choice of harmonics. It is very unlikely any exhaust manifold will be correct for your setup and also very unlikely it will cause any noticeable reduction in bhp or torque. If it fits fit it

Dees meet is 09:30 ish for breakfast and a chat last Sunday of the month. The club does many events in the Essex area and some further afield.

You dont have an active club meet in Essex that I am aware of due to very few turning up. I helped to start the Essex Kit Car club which meets last Sunday of the month at Dees Diner Hatfield Peverel unless we have a car related activity planned. You are welcome to turn up a Dees for a chat

Westfield/Caterham T piece in the hose from manifold to water pump, its generally the highest part of the system and as header tanks are Td into the lower coolant pipe to radiator are hard to bleed