Snapperpaul

On first start up I had fuel flowing out of the trumpets, disconcerting but a mate with bikes said its no issue and will clear as you run the car which it did.

I ran 2 L shaped plates under the car and inside the engine bay to stop the flexing. I also ran a 2x1 box section under the car between the 2 plates as a brace

I had an issue similar that turned out to be a broken wire in the plug to the crank position sensor, it was intermittent. I ended up putting a new sensor plug and wire back to the EDIS. I also put a support bar across sensor plug to stop cable flexing at the point it goes into the plug. Sorted it

So glad this worked Thank you to all who responded, I did a bit of behind the scenes on this and got a mixed reception on a few sites, I contacted Adam @ Complete Kitcar a bit late in the day when responses from other forums was less than I had wished for and Adam used his extensive contacts to keep the momentum going and this was the result Excellent.

Because it uses an RS233 com socket you can use either a long RS232 to RS232 extension or an RS232 to USB lead with a USB extension

Just to cut through a bit of the speculation and hopefully add a bit of clarity.... The only easily found Sierra viscous LSD is the 3.62 or 3.64 ratio generally 3.62 is a 7 and 3.64 is a 71/2 The 3.92 was a 7 only found on the 2.0L DOHC 4x4 The viscous diff is a softer street LSD, generally they are sealed for life and as they have silicon fluid you can fit and forget, I personally would not fiddle with it as it has a specific sized air bubble in it. I know that oval racers sometimes pump air in to make the diff stiffer. I run an ATB only because it fitted my push in shaft back end. Most of not all Sierra viscous diffs are bolt on. The reality of an LSD on the road is that it benefits the sporty driver, either viscous or ATB, plate diffs are mostly on or off and you can never set it up for all conditions. An LSD will tend to push you straight (understeer) but you can compensate easily in your driving style and/or change your setup a bit, certainly the drive out of corners is great and confidence in the fast corners is a delight. The Sierra viscous diff is the cheapest, easiest to fit and an excellent upgrade for the road. And of course the bragging rights

I have fitted thick metal plates inside the tunnel to stop the prop breaking through if it did let go. Alternitively you could use square tube. The tunnel is an important part of the chassis integrity so youll need to do some serious work to get it safe. Consider running a central box spine from back to front

I could of retired last January.... at 60 I have a cunning plan though and still (just) enjoy what I do

I sort of bodged it on insitu The big problem is nowhere to fix it securely so you have to extend the front cover bolts

I think that is correct Kent cams website will give all the info you need http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/158/Camshaft/Camshaft/FR32-Fast-Road/

Brake pipe tube fits a treat or strips off aluminium

The catch tank you want if you are going down that route is one that is baffled with 2 or more inlets and a seperate filter to let the tank breath

Yes it wil and you can pack the silt a little to provide even more pull. You can also lengthen the outer cover by packing with washers or steel tube with a washer of the right diameter hole at the pedal box end and some washers at the gearbox end

I used inverted ally rivnuts uncompressed or very lightly compressed, drilled the supports so the rivnuts went through then cut back rivnuts so there was some compression but not a lot as the rivnuts now provides the support. Behind the frame I used some small angle that bolts to the support, the frame rests on this and it further supports the screen. The crews that pull the bottoms of the frames together were replaced with long thin nuts and bolts with the nut reccessed in the lower frame and bolt cut back

Well Im up for it After finding the Fiesta ST clutch does not fit the flywheel Nor does the Pinto AP clutch set Or the Mondeo clutch kit I just bought If we can sort payment, I think bank transfer would be good and delivery/postage we can settle the deal

Im interested in clutch cover and friction plate Have already got a lightweight flywheel that is 270mm across not including teeth, 140mm inner recess. Clutch cover bolt pattern pcd is 250mm If your clutch has same bolt pattern I am definatelly interested

I ran without screen in the early days, now enjoy screen doors and wipers. The S3 has a narrow scuttle so you may have to modify an aero screen to fit or go bespoke The original roll bar was mostly cosmetic and needed a lot of modification to the rear tub to have any real use in a roll. I think the bar was made out of industrial 2½ heating pipe and have looked at fabricating a full cage running under the roof but close behind the screen, through the scuttle picking up on the tub box folds that run either side but have now bought a Fury as well so all further modifications will go in the Furys direction for now

I think thats a fair price considering the extra modifications. I am toying with having BGH do one of my V6 Type 9s as the longer 1st makes a Type 9 so much better

I thought Id have a quick google https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/NEW-Black-Leather-Outfit-Mens-Outfit/656364?id=656364&slug=NEW-Black-Leather-Outfit-Mens-Outfit

Google Type 9 gearbox spacer then go to images youll see a Caterham one near the top and a few pages down my V6 Type9 on a workmate with spacer and RS2000 bellhousing

28 to 30mm V6 box needs cutout for the larger layshaft bearing. I did the job way back may still be in the archives but photobox May have blocked the photos Caterham spacer is the one you want for ease of fitting. I have dimensions somewhere

Now this thread is starting to pi55 me off. Part reading the consultation to find the bit you like and ignoring the rest OR deciding its retrosoective when it clearly is not WHICH starts others off on promulgating the incorrect facts and blurring the discussion No rule change regarding cars has EVER be applied retrospectively Excepting some easily achievable safety issues such as tyres

You emissions are dictated by IVA and put on your V5 in this case the newest requirement On my test emissions were done first, fail that and they dont progress with the test

Thats a good point about registration plate. Also what had not been said is what happens to a Q plate. I get the feeling this is purely an emissions based consultation and the registration plate options are not being considered

YOU NEED TO READ THIS Kit car emissions Taken from www.gov Road Cars Improving air quality and safety Kit cars 4.10 Kit cars and reconstructed classic cars undergoing IVA will not be required to meet WLTP, given that at present they are not required to meet NEDC or the latest EU standards. Instead they are tested to age-appropriate MOT standards, on the basis of the date of manufacture or first use of the engine. 4.11 We are proposing that for kit cars, compliance with the MOT emissions standards current at the date of registration will be required, despite the use of an older engine. In other words the current relaxation for emissions according to the age of the engine will no longer apply. 4.12 Reconstructed (restored) classic cars undergoing IVA will not be required to meet the latest MOT standards, as long as the appearance of the vehicle is broadly unchanged and the engine is of the same capacity as that supplied with the vehicle when it was new. 4.13 When new vehicles were first required to be fitted with catalytic converters around 1992 (Euro 1 emissions standard), kit car makers typically used older engines which were not fitted with catalytic converters, hence the justification for age-appropriate testing of emissions based on date of engine manufacture or first use. The majority of the fleet is now vehicles up to 25 years old whose engines are fitted with catalytic converters, providing plenty of choice to the kit car builder. Question. Are you content with our proposal to require kit cars to meet the latest MOT standards, removing the current rule where vehicles are tested to MOT standards according to the age of their engine? The consultation period begins on Friday 2 February 2018 and runs until Friday 2 March 2018. Please ensure that your response reaches us before the closing date. If you would like further copies of this consultation document, it can be found at https:// www.gov.uk/dft#consultations or you can contact us using the details below if you need alternative formats (Braille, audio CD, etc.). Please send consultation responses to: Robert Lloyd-Smith Zone 1/33, Great Minster House 33 Horseferry Road LONDON SW1P 4DR Email to: ivs.consult@dft.gsi.gov.uk When responding, please state whether you are responding as an individual or representing the views of an organisation. If responding on behalf of a larger organisation, please make it clear who the organisation represents and, where applicable, how the views of members were assembled. A list of the main representative bodies consulted is attached at Annex E. If you have any suggestions of others who may wish to be involved in this process please contact us. Annex E: List of those notified of the consultation Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) National Motor Dealers Association (NMDA) Vehicle Bodybuilders and Repairers Association (VBRA) National Caravan Council (NCC) Wheelchair Accessible Vehicle Converters Association (WAVCA) British Independent Motor Traders Association (BIMTA) American Import Agents Association (AIAA) Niche Vehicle Network (NVN) National Trailer Towing Association (NTTA) Recovery Equipment Manufacturers and Suppliers Association (REMSA) Road Safety Markings Association (RSMA) Freight Transport Association (FTA) Road Haulage Association (RHA) Confederation of Passenger Transport (CPT) Transport for London (TfL) Local Government Association (LGA) Low Carbon Vehicle Partnership (LowCVP)