peter_m7uk

Interesting reponses from Fred2b and Jim Poole. My question is: How do you know the ECU can't deal with the new camshaft and have either of you done any actual tests to check that the engine is running lean or low on power? I would interested to see your info on the Bosch ECU, Jim, thanks. Otherwise, without test data as proof, I'm inclined to believe the Kent Cams guys. They are the experts and say that the cam was developed for the standard ECU. Cheers, Pete

You're all on carbs of course, so I didn't think I'd get many replies! It's ok, I spoke to Kent Cams directly and their answers (if anyone's interested) were: 1) Yes, the cam was developed around the standard ECU 2) I'll get 15bhp extra 3) Due to the cam's low duration/overlap, emissions aren't a problem Pete

Hey all, My engine is a 2.0i Pinto, but the camshaft has done 100,000 miles and is badly worn. So, I want to stick a new camshaft in and discovered that Kent Cams do a fast road camshaft for the injection engine. My questions are these: 1) Will I be able to reuse the standard Ford ECU 2) How much extra BHp do you reckon I'll get 3) Do you think I'll fail the emissions test on the SVA/MOT?? Cheers, Pete

I just wanted to come back on the question of the usage of the new Lightweight Robin Hood as a track car only, and it's durability. I e-mailed the company and this was their reply: "No that is not true, as with all robin hoods it is intended for the road rather than the track. If customers wish to use it on the track then it could be done and quite successfully we think with the weight of the vehicle. If built carefully and weatherproofed then there is no reason why a Lightweight shouldn't last as long as any other vehicle." Do you think that's legally binding?!

ECAM, what's the difference between pop rivets and avdels? I thought a rivet's a rivet? Pete

"Not for road use"!! Oh hell, it didn't say that in the brochure! I'm going to the Kit Car Show at Detling, Kent on 2nd/3rd April, so I'll have a damn good look at the Lightweight and bring up this question of road use. If that's true, I'll have to rehash all my plans and start looking at a 2B/4 or 2B+. Fortunately, I haven't chucked away the Sierra trailing arms and torque tube, so it's still possible to build an established kit. I'm rather concerned now, but grateful for the warnings. Cheers, Peter

Oy! I'm going to buy a Lightweight! Stop trying to put me off. Where do you get this incredible inside knowledge that there's something wrong with it??

Anyone seen the announcement on the RH website that the new owners "would like to market the new Lightweight project themselves in their own style as they are not happy with our style" ?? I hope this doesn't mean price increases!! Peter

Brilliant idea, chaps! I was down at B&Q last night getting the bar, nuts and washers for about £3. CHEERS, Peter

Hi all, I have an engine stand for my 2.0 Pinto now and I was just looking at the required mounting bolts. It appears that all of the engine-to-gearbox bolts are 17mm M10 1.5mm pitch bolts of strength grade 8.8. To mount the engine I will need four of these, but they're going to have to be several inches long to fit through the engine stand tubes and go right through the engine holes. Are these the sort of thing you can pick up at B&Q, or if not can anyone suggest a good supplier?? Thanks a lot, Peter

Wow, thanks for all the tips, fellas! Can I just pick up on a couple of things, though? I will be using a Robin Hood fuel tank, so is it possible to use the Sierra pump and sender, or will I have to buy those 3rd party? As I will remove the auxiliary warning module, which operates the "low fuel" light, is it straightforward to wire in another fuel warning? I expect the oil warning and maybe some others are operated by that unit, so the same applies? Seems a bit daft to keep the aux warning module, when it tells you stuff about doors left open and so on, which aren't going to be a problem! I assume the lamp failure module is a bit of a complicated luxury which can be bypassed by simply checking your lights regularly... Also, I had two front fog lamps - Are they necessary for the SVA, or just the rear one? Hope you can help, Pete

I've managed to remove the mass of spaghetti that is the loom from a 1989 2.0 Sierra Ghia. I was wondering if anyone else had reused the loom from a Ghia model and, if so, which circuits did you cut out of it? Obviously, stuff like electric windows and mirrors, heated screens and audio equipment can go. But, there is also a lamp failure module and an auxiliary warning system which seem to get involved with various gauges and warning lamps. I'd quite like to discard these as well, but I'm worried that I may remove something important. And I know that you can get a Vicki Green loom for £60 or whatever, but I want to have a go at this unless I'm forced to admit defeat! Cheers, Peter

Not quite, I just got a full top end set from e-bay for £16.25 inc p&p, as opposed to Rally Design's £17.50. £11.20 for the bottom end set looks good value though, so thanks for the tip Bob! Peter

Two of you mentioned BurtonPower. What are their prices like? Any more than your average motor factor?? Peter

Thanks for all the info, chaps. Plus I updated my profile as suggested. Pete

Where on earth do I get a complete set of new gaskets for a 2.0 pinto?? Can't find any advertised on the net.. Pete

Rizla, you're right! I gave the throttle body a damn good clean with lots of rubbing and scraping to get it shiny again. I also cleaned out the wee tunnel between the throttle body and the idle valve, getting a lot of muck out. Lo and behold, the idling problem went away! So Guy, if I was you I'd try an extensive clean up asap. Pete

Hey all, I am waiting for the new Lightweight to be made available, but in the meantime I have a pre-order form. On there, one of the options which has not been finalised in price is "Rose jointed suspension". Can anyone tell me what the difference is between this and any other sort of suspension? Do you reckon it will be an expensive extra, but worth having for improved performance, say?? Cheers, Pete

It was obvious in the end! My Sierra has a wee display showing whether the doors are open, for example, and giving various warnings around the car. The module was just the controller for that. Cheers Guys. Pete

As you suggested, I tried cleaning out the valve with carb cleaner and oiling it, but no improvement in the situation at all, I'm afraid. Really, there didn't seem to be much wrong with it, the action was smooth and so on. Any other suggestions, or do you reckon it's definitely the valve? I may have to pay a scrap yard a visit and try to find a cheap replacement valve. Cheers, Pete

How much are they and where would you get one from? Cheers, Pete

My Sierra donor is a 1989 2.0 EFi Ghia with 100,000 miles on the clock. It runs fine apart from a problem with the idling. If I rev it a little then release the throttle, the revs drop to about 600rpm, close to stalling, then it picks up again and runs fine. I changed the spark plugs just to be on the safe side and cleaned out the airflow meter, but without any real success. Anyone seen this problem before, or got any hints on what to look at? Cheers, Pete

Cheers Gpayne, but there is no alarm and the car is a 1989 Sierra Ghia. It's more like the size of your total hand, rather than the palm.

There are three silver boxes hidden behind the Sierra dashboard. One has code 87BG-10C909AA and seems to be the lamp failure indicator. Another is 85BB-12A650-CA and is the engine management controller. But I can't figure out or find what 87BB-10K910-AB is! It's located low down on the passenger side. Any suggestions? Cheers, Pete

Hi all, Just wondering how long and wide the average complete RH is from one extremity to the other?? Just need to sort out some "storage issues" with my garage! I've read on the net that the Lotus Seven IF was 10'9" long and 4'5" wide. 10'3" for the Series One, 11' long and 4'7" for the Series 3. Has it grown or shrunk in replica form?? Cheers, Peter