Jump to content

FERRINO

Community user
  • Posts

    292
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by FERRINO

  1. Ah ok - I'm not a paying member anymore so probably can't do messaging anymore. No worries - Just drop me a txt to 07894 151757. Are you sure you want to drive all the way from Bolton to Rugby and back for some incredibly rusty bonnet parts though? Cheers Tony
  2. Hi - Yes you have just caught them in time. Was going to book a tip appt next week Drop me a message. I'm in Rugby, (5mins off Junction 1 M6) by the way. Cheers Tony
  3. Just bumping this back up again as the tip run is looming, so I'll be scrapping them fairly soon. Are either of these any use to anyone on here - or know anybody that might want them before I do? :- Located CV21 1JE.
  4. Hi Neil - What model do you have? If it's a 2B, I have a standard mild steel bonnet (hasn't been fitted but is rusty and needs shot blasting). Also got another one that's been cut at the scuttle and has been sprayed black quickly with rattle cans. Both are taking up space in the loft. Was planning to take them to the tip when the hysteria is over and we can finally doing normal things again. Cheers Tony
  5. FERRINO

    short sump

    I've got one on Ebay at the moment. Was a spare I kept from an unused engine :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shortened-Pinto-Sump-Kit-Car-Westfield-Robin-Hood-Locost-Roadster-Caterham-Sierr/224139051875 Cheers Tony
  6. FERRINO

    2B

    Hi Ed - As mentioned above the much larger size of the 2B makes it impossible to buy GRP side panels/rear tub/bonnet etc off the shelf. I managed to fit GRP all round - except the bonnet - but it wasn't easy. The closest GRP bodied car in terms of size is the Haynes Roadster which plenty of places make bodywork for still. I bought a Roadster rear tub - cut it down the middle - extended it (60-70'ish mm from memory) - reconnected it with small aluminium box section top and bottom and made an infill section to cover the gap. This gives you proper 'flat' sides to which you can mount GRP rear wings - I used GBS Zero rear wings but my wheels were really wide. You can use normal width locost/roadster rear wings though. For the side panels - again Haynes Roadster is very close and almost does fit straight off the shelf. The 2B chassis is a little taller though (5-6mm only!), so I ended up having to cut the top and bottom return flanges almost fully off. You then have to use fixings in from the sides into the chassis tubes as obviously you don't have the top/btm to fix with anymore. You could bond them on though if you didn't want to have fixings showing on the sides - but then it's harder to remove them if you ever needed. For the bonnet - I couldn't get anything even close to fitting and had to resort to aluminium. Even then, there aren't any companies that do one 'off the shelf' and mine was just a lucky Ebay find. If you're handy with fabrication you could always have a go at rolling your own? Hope that helps anyway - and good luck with the rebuild! Cheers Tony
  7. Thanks for the nice comments chaps! Car is now sold and being collected later this afternoon. I had loads of offers through Ebay and txt - all of whom were offering the exact same amount (2k). I ended up getting a bit more than that - but unfortunately the value of things is set by the market. The plus side of not having to spend hours in the garage stripping stuff apart/dealing with postage/having little bits left over outweighs that though - so I'm happy it's going complete. Bit of sadness to see it go - but looking forward to the future hours of trying to get the basket case bike engined Locost sorted properly. At least the car is hopefully going to a good home. A guy from Kent (I think he's a mechanic or owns a garage?) is buying it for his Son as a project to cheer him up as he's had a bit of a rough time by the sounds of it. He appreciates the fact that it's a project car and will require plenty of tinkering and will have some issues to sort - so that is a big plus for me when selling something like this. The last thing you want is someone coming back to you every 5 minutes complaining about things etc. Cheers Tony
  8. Hi Martin - I'm in Rugby (CV21 1JE). I've got someone coming to view tomorrow night and someone else coming Wednesday - but if neither are interested for any reason I'll give you a shout. Cheers Tony
  9. Selling my unregistered sliding pillar build :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223903685166 Cheers Tony
  10. Now on Ebay - I kinda already know I'm going to end up having to break it . Bring forth all the Ebay weirdo's and total timewasters lol! :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223903685166
  11. If I end up breaking it down - then yes definitely wheels/tyres would be one of the items that would be sold as a set.
  12. Evening all, I've finally decided to give up on the Sliding pillar 2B build and have today bought a locost with a bike engine. The car is tatty and needs a fair bit of work to get it properly right - but at least its already road legal and Mot'd for some summer fun. :- I really enjoyed the test drive I was taken on today. Surprised how gentle quiet and pleasant a bike engine can be trundling around - that is until the taps are opened and then all hell breaks loose! Quite a different animal indeed then lol! So despite putting 7 years on and off into the build of my 2B - I'm going to be looking to move it on. I would love it if someone bought it complete and finished it. At a rough calc I reckon it would be worth at least £2500 broken down and sold as parts but that is such a ball ache to have to do so would love to sell complete of course. Do you reckon I could put this up for £2000-2500 as an unfinished project that starts/stops/steers/all electrics work and pretty much all parts to complete provided? Does anybody know anyone who might be looking? It's much more complete than this now - but it's one of the latest 'outside' pics I have:- Cheers Tony
  13. Hi Davo - It's difficult to tell from the pics, but are you sure that's a 2B? Is there a tubular chassis underneath that wide side panel? Cheers Tony
  14. Excellent news Bob! Glad you got it sorted
  15. Thanks Dan - That's my reading (well hoping) of it too. I'm gonna forget it for now and just stick it in for IVA next year and just see what they say. Thanks as always Cheers Tony
  16. Thanks for the replies chaps - it really does help to hear that it wasn't probed in too much depth by people who have been through IVA/SVA. It's Annex 1 of the section in the IVA manual that's worrying me a little as it mentions that an angle less than 10 degrees would have little effect at deflecting the column away from the driver. However - the main page of the protective steering section has 5 conditions that 'must' be met to pass. Number 4 states:- "The vehicle and steering column assembly must be designed such in the event of a frontal impact at 48km/h (30mph) the rearward horizontal displacement and vertical displacement of the top of the steering column and it's shaft do not exceed 127mm. The vehicle should be assessed using the material in Annex 1." My reading of that is that if the column has less than 127mm displacement then the tester should use the info in Annex 1 to determine if it will be acceptable or not? I have more than 127mm of 'collapsible' section - so hopefully the tester wouldn't even need to refer to Annex 1 - Is that how other people read this or have I got it wrapped round my neck lol? Cheers Tony
  17. Hi Rob, Is it possible to get a better picture of that area at all? If that's not a black rubber stop sandwiched with 2 washers sitting on top of the fixed arm, what is that dark area at the bottom of the pillar? People have used all sorts of things to make the bump stop for a sliding pillar. Some suggestions are anti-vibration mounts with a hole drilled through - right up to using an old bit of conveyor belt cut and drilled. See example link below:- https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/38204-sliding-pillar-bump-stops-what-do-you-use/&tab=comments#comment-294262 Would definitely be interested to know what's at the bottom of your strut though. Cheers Tony
  18. Thanks Dan - That's encouraging. I'm guessing my IVA will be at the same test center as you did yours as we are pretty close so that's good to hear. I guess the steering was designed properly on the Zero though and has more of a visible angle? Or maybe I'm worrying about nothing? If it does all have to come out and have multiple sections/bearing blocks and large angles introduced I'd rather now before it gets presented.
  19. Has anybody else had any experience with the steering shaft angle at IVA at all?
  20. That's brilliant - many thanks for that Magh. A few pics would be really-really helpful from someone who's been through it. Many thanks again
  21. Hi Robert - It's difficult to see from the pic but it looks like you have a black rubber bump stop fitted already? It may be that needs renewing if it's making too much of a bang. It's normal for there to be a gap when the weight of the car pushes the hub up the shaft so it's not missing anything in the 'gap' if that's what you mean? Cheers Tony
  22. Hi Magh - Many thanks for the reply. Does your steering have more 'angle' on it than mine? Thanks for the heads up re:the brake pipe. I am planning on wrapping the exhaust and fitting a heat deflector plate also. Also think the picture from above maybe makes it look a little closer than it is? Have you got a piccy at all of the route your pipe takes please? It would be a real pain to have to redo the brake lines at this point so am now very worried about this too . Cheers Tony
  23. Hi all - Can anybody confirm what the IVA man requires for steering shaft angle please (or is it as I suspect one of those very woolly areas that varies from tester to tester)? I'm fairly sure my whole steering arrangement is going to need pulling out and re-doing again . Tried to take a couple of pics tonight to show roughly what it looks like and marked the approx difference in angle between the rack and the shaft (marked as red lines on below pic):- The rack has approx 115mm of travel from the collapsible triangle section - plus the collapsible section of the Sierra upper column. I also have a collapsible steering boss. The shaft is also only about 5mm clear of the exhaust manifold and only approx 1-2mm clear of the chassis rail which is another reason I think it's all got to come out. Any advice gratefully appreciated. Cheers Tony
×
×
  • Create New...