FERRINO

Thanks Dan! - I should remember where you live as my car is still sporting your old Exmo's nose cone!

Ok Many thanks for clearing that up fully chaps - much appreciated. This is exactly how I read it originally - but a few people have been suggesting that it only applies to MOT not at IVA which is where I got confused (not difficult these days!). @Dan - Thanks for the positive input regarding my particular engine setup. I'm a bit more hopeful now that with a big enough CAT it should get below the limits. I know the engine has been well looked after (it was Dereks full pinto setup before he went to Red top). Once it's up and running again - I think a trip to a garage on the back of a trailer is in order to double check emissions! Cheers Tony

Despite being caught up in this unfortunately timed legislation change - I do fully agree with the principle. The environmental issue is important and If I were starting a build right now it would be a Zero (preferably) or a Haynes but would definitely be using a stock MX5 engine as they are cheap/good and plentiful in scrapyards or on Ebay these days (as the Dft document states) and this emissions change wouldn't be an issue. I'm following the similar thread on LCB closely too - but prefer to ask on here as some people are getting a bit 'shirty' with others who are not fully understanding the meaning/implications (probably due to being concerned of the impact). So am I right in saying if this passes - If you submit a (CAT'less) - jumble of parts no donor info -1989 Pinto efi for IVA, it will still be tested against an 'age related' emissions standard during the IVA test - Correct thus far? Then when you come to register it after IVA - You will still be given a 'Q' plate if you don't have the donor info (I assume they are not planning to change this) and then allowed to drive it on the road. Then - 1 year later when you are due an MOT - The car will then be tested against the 'current' MOT emissions standard of 0.2% and 200ppm at fast idle/0.3 % at idle? Is this correct? Cheers Tony

I'm sure to the first of many-many to ask for peoples opinion on this, But can I ask if anybody thinks I stand a chance of passing the revised emissions at IVA (I've no doubt whatsoever our opinions will be ignored and this will be passed) with the following:- 1989 2.0 efi pinto/factory ECU - If a CAT is added? Cheers Tony

Thanks Magh - That's very kind of you to get a picture. It's nice to finally see somebody elses. I'll be in the garage tonight looking at the options of what can be done as I really would prefer to use the Electronic adapter rather than diff bolts. You must be lucky and have one of the later Type 9 gearboxes that also has the Electronic output on the other side! Thanks again for pic

Thanks for the reply's. I do have the sensor for flange bolts/magnets that came with the Koso RX2n unit. I just was hoping to take the pulse output straight from the gearbox with the convertor - nice and simple. I guess it's my own fault for not checking the car before ordering £40's worth of adaptor/sensor. I'm just really curious how anybody with a 2B has even connected their cable for the standard Sierra clocks! I guess they must have hacked away at the chassis and/or the thick triangulation strengthening plate?? Either that or the speedo cables are pressed up hard against the chassis tube and are rubbing/chaffing away nicely? The gearbox must be positioned correctly as the gearbox mount underneath is fitted in the holes without needing to enlarge/slot etc. Therefore the speedo cable output must be directly opposite the chassis tube for everybody with a 2B right? Would love to see a picture of somebody elses please. I did think about moving the Engine/box forward a bit to give clearance to the tube and just accept that the triangulation member will have to be butchered. It does all seem like such a bodge-job though.

Evening all - Finally got back to doing some work on the car build after 8 month delay. Decided to fit the Cambiare speed sensor from Ebay and type 9 adapter from Burtons. It came as no surprise at all with RH champagne Engineering to find a vertical chassis member directly in the way:- There is also a thick triangulation plate in the way behind the vertical chassis tube. I can't even see how you could connect the bog standard cable without hitting the chassis? My question is - how has everybody else got round this issue? The £100 90 degree adaptor doesn't even look like it would fit? Cheers Tony

Thanks Martin! Great pictures - cheers again for getting them for me. As said in the email, I really like what you've done with the machined parts and adjusters etc! Cheers Tony

Thanks for that chaps - that's really helpful Rich - Your description says you have a Sub-K though, they have a different front suspension setup don't they? As I understand, it's kind of a wishbone type link arm setup on the bottom and then a spring/shock above acting against a fixed arm on top isn't it? Martin - Yes I do actually remember your emails, I never could get the images to enlarge enough to see exactly what you did with those nice machined adjusters though unfortunately. I've just replied to it again from my hotmail account, hopefully you got it ok? I would love to see some pics of how it all currently looks. I will grab some pics of mine this weekend and try to upload them (anyone know of a decent free hosting site now that photobucket are trying to hold us to ransom)? Cheers again for the replies Tony

Nobody driving a sliding pillar car these days that could maybe get a measurement for me please? Cheers Tony

Question to sliding pillar owners - How much clearance have you got between the the stud/nut on the bottom of the fixed strut and the inside of your wheel rim please (and what size rim is it)? I have the ride height set fairly low on mine at the moment. The standard springs have been replaced with shorter/stiffer ones and am using a thick bump stop underneath the hub to move the hub up the pillar and effectively 'drop' the front of the car. With 15" rims I currently only have about 40mm clearance to inside of wheel rim! There is more than 40mm travel available in the spring above the hub - so theoretically the nut could dig in to the inside of the rim and cause a nasty accident once its roadworthy. I can obviously fit a bump stop on top to try and restrict it to 40mm to prevent it contacting. What I'm wondering is though, how much travel do we normally get in 7 type cars front suspension on the road? I've watched youtube onboard videos of 7 type cars where you can see the suspension moving a lot on the country roads - but these have all been wishbone car videos. Obviously the sliding pillar design is just terrible and can't be compared to wishbones of course so its difficult to judge - but am I worrying unnecessarily? Is 40mm plenty assuming the spring is pretty stiff? I'm guessing not and thinking maybe 50-60mm absolute minimum travel required? If there are people running around in sliding pillars with similar clearance possibly using the softer standard springs then hopefully I won't have to worry about it. Would appreciate peoples input though please. Cheers Tony

Ok thanks Rich - that's fair enough. Cheers for the reply Tony

Did the shortened gear lever with quickshift find a new home at Stoneleigh or do you still have it? Cheers Tony

Mmmm - yeah it does seem a little too much to 'train' to shape in your case looking at how it currently sits from your pics , what material is your bonnet? Can you move the dash panel up an inch or so? It would reduce the gap and might allow the bonnet to re-form? Funnily enough I've just recently had to do something very similar. I bought one of those Fibreglass 2B dashes that the guy sells on Ebay. It was also pretty far out from the bonnet shape. Had several 'fun' evenings and weekends bashing and trying to manipulate the bonnet to fit. Ended up having to make a 2 piece profile jig out of mdf and start 'clamping' and re-forming the tube shape from about 3/4's of the way along to bonnet to get the top profile to change at all. It did just about go in the end so it can be done - but it's hard work and has left some dimples/ripples which will have to be disguised. My bonnet is Aluminium as well so if yours is steel will obviously make the job even harder, Dash/bonnet before:- After 'Training':-

Isn't the Zero a fair bit narrower than the 2B cockpit area though? Although the dash you have is definitely Zero 'style' I think it might be right for the 2B? Have a look at this guys 2B build blog - about half way down, his dash looks exactly the same offered up as yours (even the same colour). He made it fit by the looks of it although it does look like his bonnet is not the one supplied with the kit as it has no louvres etc:- http://robinhood2bgulf.blogspot.co.uk/ Cheers Tony

Long shot I know - but I don't suppose anybody on here lives near Ferryhill and happens to be going to the kit car show at all do they please? :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-pinto-Stainless-4-Branch-Exhaust-Manifold-Kit-Car-MK-Indy-Locost-Tiger-/292096941266?hash=item4402559cd2:g:RoEAAOSwtZJY~5VF Cheers Tony

Also - If you didn't want to go to Ford for them I fully suspect there would be a suitable size standard thrust bearing that would do the job:- Simply bearings stock these:- http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bearings/c3/index.html

Hi Joe - Have a look at Maca's post on this thread:- http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=36903&&gopid=292757&&page=3&do=findComment&comment=292757 It gives you the Ford part ref. Cheers Tony

Hi Jonathan, It was only the Haynes Roadster rear tub that I used, the rear arches are off a GBS Zero. I did buy some brand new roadster rear arches but they didn't look right at all for some reason on my weird hybrid setup - so they got sold on. The Zero ones just looked a slightly better fit tbh. The Haynes Roadster is a wide 7 replica anyway but because the 2B is just so silly-over the top wide I still had to cut the rear tub to get it to fit over the massive out-reaching rear frame tubes at the back (something like a further 70mm from memory! ). Picture below with the 2 halves clamped onto the frame tube just after cutting :- The 2 sections are now held together with some aluminium box section riveted on the top and bottom inside. You might just be able to see the silver colour spanning the gap top and btm from this more current pic?:- I still need to make the infill section when it's time to finish off the bodywork - so it's still open for now. hopefully the join lines will be fairly well covered as I'm planning on having a stripe decal run down the middle front to back when its all done. I think it's starting to look alright now, but it's not a trivial 5 min job to get bodywork from other kit makes onto these 2B's by any means. I just really don't like the thin 'tapered' metal type rear arches personally. The GRP Haynes Roadster side panels were so-so close to being a direct fit - but the 2B chassis rails are about 4mm taller so the top and btm return lips of the GRP had to be almost completely removed - making them fit less securely and nicely than I'd like. A future job is going to be to remove them and just make some Aluminium side panels properly when time allows. Cheers Tony

True story! I did loads of research and then watched loads of vids on youtube (where it just seems to 'fall on' to the component) before buying the expensive 3M stuff to do the rear wheel arches. Spent 3 hours on the first one calmly trying to get it to fit around all the compound curves before finally having a massive tantrum/tearing it off/scrunching it into a large ball and stamping on it whilst yelling like a loony! Ended up just spraying them. Then the wife accidentally knocked them onto the concrete whilst they were drying in the sun and now I have to do them all over again.

Nice result What's the full spec of the engine?

Yep - checked all these. Checked both caps back to back and they are identical. Beginning to wish I hadn't bought the transparent cap now - probably wouldn't be worried about any of this with the normal cap on.

Thanks Ken - I think my Dad left our old strobe light in his garage so will look that out when the time comes - but cheers for the offer!. I am definitely going to be replacing the cambelt - just wanted to fire it up first and make sure everything was running properly. That way if it doesn't run properly after I've done the cambelt - I'll know exactly where I've ball'sd up lol. The engine has been in the car for ages anyway tbh so I'll be doing it in situ. No chance of that thankfully - the plugs have been out of the engine for the last 3 years (so I could pop oil down there regularly). Whenever I turned it over I did it by hand on the crank pulley, - so with no compression (due to the plugs being out) it's always been nice and easy. My dizzy looks totally different to that - It's not got the vacuum unit for a start. I guess that's normal though for an EFI dizzy as it's all controlled by the ECU I'd guess? Cheers Tony

Thanks for the replies all. I checked last night and there is no mark on the Distributor body (or the spare one) to show where the rotor arm should be at No1 TDC unfortunately. I think you maybe have just been lucky Chris that somebody has marked yours? :- I went with this diagram showing direction of rotation when engine is running:- When I turn the crank on the engine clockwise as it shows in the diagram, the rotor arm moves clockwise - again as it shows in the diagram, so fairly comfortable with that. As mentioned, I do still have the original cap and will pop that on when the time comes to try and fire it up. I'm sure this doubt has only come along due to the transparent cap?! I bet if I'd just re-used the original cap, I would have seen the rotor arm roughly in the vicinity of the lead and not worried about it too much when the cap was back on? Nigel - The engine was all timed up and running perfectly (see video below) the day it came out and the timing/dizzy position etc haven't been touched since - so I'm struggling to think how the rotor could now be 45 degrees out? Have you got a link to where it shows the rotor arm sitting at 5'o'clock at all please? http://vid68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/FERRINO/2B%20Kit%20Car/Pinto%20engine_zpsmz5csygw.mp4 Cheers Tony

Ahhh, cheers Chris - will check that later!