FERRINO

Thanks Bob - I did put the 2 caps together (end to end and then looked through the transparent one) just to be certain that it was an exact replacement and it seems to be spot on. I guess most peoples are probably like this but the transparent cap just highlights it. I've still got the fuel line to connect onto the rail and a couple of other little jobs before fire-up, but as you suggest -will probably try it with the original cap first and then if it runs nicely just swap back and see if the transparent one is fine too.

Afternoon all - I'm getting dangerously close to being able to fire up the 2.0 EFI pinto in my build for the first time and am just wanting to do a quick sanity check that the firing order is correct please. The engine was running fine (video to prove) just before it came out of the car it was in - and neither the Dizzy or cam belt have been touched since it last ran (I believe late 2012 early 2013). I have been putting oil down the bores and turning it over every few months since. I have just replaced the dizzy cap with one of those transparent ones and bought new accuspark leads and new plugs for it. Set piston 1 (nearest rad) to TDC and removed the rocker cover to make absolutely sure neither valves were open. Checked the timing marks on crank and cam, both look right:- So the rotor arm should be pointing at the lead for plug No.1 as I understand it. When I look through the (now) transparent dizzy cap - it looks like this:- It strikes me that the rotor arm (which spins clockwise as I understand it?) has gone a fair way past the terminal it's closet too? Is this right? I know the ignition fires before TDC, but turning the crank backwards until the rotor arm actually lines up with terminal post moves the cam pulley pointer waaaaaaay past the little dot on the head. I suspect it must be right though and the connection at the top of the pic is plug 1 - it just seems a little odd? So continuing around clockwise it would be this for the leads as it's 1-3-4-2?:- Cheers Tony

That's a very kind offer Paul - thank you. However, it looks like it's sold now anyway and also it's too close to our holiday to be spending that kind of money lol. Cheers though! Tony

Evening all - long shot I know, but does anybody have an old sierra boss lying around that a Mountney wheel with 70mm pcd would fit please? I currently have the standard boss which only fits the standard 101mm pcd mountey wheel (supplied with the kit I believe). Cheers Tony

Don't know if I'm just a nerd or if this description is actually hilarious - but the last part of it made me laugh! :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-Mig-Welder-151-TE-Turbo-/291805619741?hash=item43f0f8661d:g:0KYAAOSw-KFXcrgF Having said that - It's a fantastic machine for the money! Shame Portsmouth is so far away from me.

Clip arrived today and now fitted:- Many thanks once again Nigel - you are indeed a legend Sir!

Sorry about the delay - been childminding all day and have only just opened the laptop. That's fantastic Nigel! Really-really appreciated Message sent with my address. Thanks once again Cheers Tony

True story Ian! Ridiculous Isn't it. I can't seem to find the exact same item on Ebay though for a 10th of the price because it hasn't got the magic words lol

Cheers for the info Ken, If I can't get a proper one I'll give that a try

As in title - I've stupidly managed to go and misplace the clip that retains the servo rod to the brake pedal Does anybody have a spare one I could relieve them off in exchange for a beer token at all please? I've been on Ebay and all the thieving toerags want £10 for a small clip !:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281609624048?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Cheers Tony

Congrats John!

Whipped the wheels off last night to check for you. I'm still messing about with mine at the moment with regards to ride height/steering rack height positioning and spring lengths/rates etc - but currently at rest there is only about 8mm clearance between disc and strut. Obviously as the hub moves up the shaft at the inclined angle that gap will come down a bit more. Didn't have time get the spring compressors out last night so I couldn't move the hub up to see what the gap is in the worse case position - but I'd estimate only a couple of mm at best. Looks like I'll be shaving a little off the strut like you have done to get a touch more clearance too as that's not really enough for my liking. Still not entirely sure why yours is hitting though even with the 'shaving' already carried out? Cheers Tony

One silly question - but is the pinch bolt in and done up tight? I can't quite see from the photo's? It does seem like the hub/disc section is drooping down a touch with respect to the bushed tube section?

I'm sure Tazzman will probably be along later with some much clearer better quality pics of the setup he had, but here a few I took of mine a little while back:- The disc does look close to the lower arm - but nowhere near as close as yours? I'll measure the gap later for you when I get home.

Hi Drew - I'm in exactly the same position as you regarding persevering with the sliding pillar front suspension. I assume you're working towards IVA too? I have fitted longer studs (dead easy to knock out the old ones and pop longer ones in) and also small spacers as the wheels were far too close to the springs. As mentioned earlier - please post up some pics and I''l do the same tomorrow if it helps. Cheers Tony

Would love to Ken! Got 3 young kids and a demanding (aren't they all) wife

Thanks everybody - Don't let the out side appearance fool you though. Still llllooooaaadddddssss of work to do before its anywhere near ready for IVA. This is just a small list of remaining jobs from Whiteboard No1 in the garage!:-

The wheels are XXR 527 15" x 8.25j et0 They are very wide but very light weight - and surprisingly cheap:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/261975730070?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1007033&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=13585920426&rlsatarget=aud-133395220626%3Apla-131843273826&adtype=pla&crdt=0 I've used Haynes Roadster Fibreglass side panels (modded to suit) and a roadster rear panel (cut and widened). The rear arches are off a Zero and the bonnet is Aluminium and was a lucky find on Ebay. Almost finished the wiring now too. All lights/indicators etc working correctly - just need to finish mating up the EFI loom into it. Got a Koso rx2n 10krpm to finish wiring in yet - once I've finished the carbon fibre dash. Will post a couple more pics of other bits in the morning. Cheers Tony

Evening all - I've been building my sliding pillar 2B for the last 3 years now. Not done a build thread so far as I didn't really want to bore anyone lol. Managed to get a few minutes to myself though (for once) this evening so managed to wheel the car out of the garage to see it in the daylight. It's starting to look a little more like a car it seems - still lots of work to do to finish it ready for IVA though. Cheers Tony

Hi Jord - I was never happy with the flimsy metal bracket over the tube idea either. Think I went ott with the solution though and welded in some angle iron across the tubes with droppers down to the column mount. One thing's for sure though - it's def not going anywhere and couldn't feel anymore solid! Cheers Tony

Sorry - meant to type Sub k not sub 2k. If you click the link I posted it shows the various different 'model types' that Robin Hood did over the years. It's almost exactly the same chassis as the 2B from what I can gather - but has different front suspension and seems to always have the twin rollover hoops. The sub-k part I think meant that the kit was less than a grand to buy new at the time.

The car looks pretty nicely built from the pic (was it on Ebay last year?). Small point, but I'm fairly sure this is a Sub 2k model rather than a 2B looking at the front suspension? (somebody correct me if I'm talking **** though please) http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

Wow - That looks fantastic! Great job

There is a long M8 bolt 'nutted off' through the throttle pedal on mine - works a treat and is adjustable. This is the only pic I have unfortunately:-

Sounds like a better plan I reckon. Just dug around and found the link on Colin Ushers website for 2D Autocad dwgs for all the body panels:- http://www.colinusher.info/Robin%20Hood/autocad.html Cheers Tony