FERRINO

Bingo! Cheers guys - that's exactly what I was after. Hearing that somebody failed recently only having the fog available with dip beam is exactly what I was looking for. Wiring diagram now changed accordingly so fog is available with dip and main beam. Thinking about it, it might very well be worth having one of your failsafe kits Simon - I can't see me getting the car to IVA standard until early next year, by which point I'm sure the bureaucrats will have doubled the cost again and also introduced the requirement for the fog to go off lol. Are they ready now and how much are they? Cheers again for all the help and advice everyone!

Very true Simon - most are full of conjecture and interpretation of what the rules might actually mean. Most threads are questioning wether your fogs can be on with sidelights which I already know is not allowed. I was after the hard facts about the dip/main beam query from someone who has recently been through IVA just to make sure I get a pass on this particular point Many thanks to all those who have replied - I'm just gonna wire mine up to work when the dips are on - as someone else said on one of the other TWO threads - you very probably wouldn't have your main beam on in the fog anyway. You gotta take the easy wins Cheers everyone - Mods may now delete this topic

Can somebody who has recently passed IVA (last month or 2) please clarify the situation with regard to dip beam/main beam fog light activation situation please? There is a lot of conjecture on the subject recently as to how the wording in the IVA manual actually reads - but as I'm about to crack on with my wiring it would be nice to follow along the lines of someone who has recently passed. Do you just have the fog available when your dip beam is on? ie Fog light goes off if you flip your main beam on? Seems a bit odd to me - but if it results in a pass ultimately I don't care lol! Cheers Tony

I don't trust chassis earths (especially when it's a flat crimp onto a round tube as on the 2B). Whenever I've had electrical probs on a tin top it's always-always been traced down to a corroded or just generally rubbish chassis earth. So with that in mind (and the fact we use them at work on the panel wiring), I'm using one of these at front of the car and one at the back. All the individual earths will be terminated on these and then a proper connection taken back with wire directly to the battery. The chassis will be still be earthed of course with a proper connection back to the battery - but I won't be relying on the chassis connections for lighting and sensitive ECU earths. Cheers Tony http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutral-Earth-Bar-JEW103A-100amp-Brass-Bar-/181666937270?#ht_300wt_1043

Hi Mark, The problem you will find is that the 2B 'tapers' at the back and the arches are matched to that taper. So when you try and fit normal flat sitting fibreglass arches it doesn't sit right at all. Have a quick look at this thread:- http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=39977&hl= Cheers Tony

Again just a personal opinion, but if I went to view a car and the builder said that the engine had come from a mate/the gearbox had come from a breakers/the diff had come from an Ebayer from Wales and the driveshafts had come from someone in Essex on gumtree etc etc etc - I wouldn't be the slightest bit bothered that it had Q on the plate as long as it was all put together well and drove nicely. If he said it all came from a Sierra he bought whole and stripped, I would still be looking for the exact same things and wouldn't be the slightest bit impressed that it had an age related plate (certainly wouldn't pay more for it just because of that fact). Everybody is different though which is fine and I totally respect everybody elses opinions and points of view - after all it would be a boring old world if we were all the same It's definitely Q all the way for me but hopefully good to hear everybody's opinions for the original poster of the thread?

Not odd at all - I'm exactly the same. Building mine purposely to get a Q. Just can't see the hysteria at all about having an age related plate. Who the hell is impressed that you have the engine and running gear from (example) a 1983 vehicle in your car!?! I can see it if you want to put a private plate on that's personal to you - yes totally fair enough, but trying to impress people with an age related standard type reg - very odd to me and actually suggesting that an equivalent car is worth less because it has a Q on the plate is also very odd to my way of thinking?? I like the mystery of the Q and the emissions at MOT time are just a huge bonus.

Morning all - Thought I would share this in case anyone is interested. Amazon are doing the Hilka 82825011 2 Ton Low Profile Jack (which normally sells for around £60'ish from a quick search) - for £9.38 http://www.amazon.co...ow Profile Jack Dispatch time of 3-4 weeks though, but I've ordered one anyway. Worth a go at less than a tenner even if it turns out to be rubbish Cheers Tony

To all those who've been before - is this genuinely worth a look? It's only1 junction up the motorway from me - but I don't want to waste time (and a tenner) if it's really for those restoring old MG's etc who want loads of chrome and tan leather parts? A quick squizz through the current list of exhibitors would kind of suggest the above?

Somebody sent this link at work just before I left tonight - nearly fell off my chair laughing so thought I'd share it! Cheers Tony Mmmmm - the embedding thing doesn't seem to work for some reason,but here is the link

I was thinking the exact same thing. The louvres are punched all the way up the bonnet - way past the bulkhead and very unhelpfully there are 2 sitting right above where I am planning to put the Fuses/relays etc etc so will need blanking. As an alternative, you could just cut out the bonnet and fit some aftermarket fibreglass type ones on (just an example below) - might be cheaper and easier?:- http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Fantastic news Danny! Brilliant to hear that sliders are still going through with no problems - gives me a little hope lol. Enjoy driving it now! Cheers Tony

Great news Alex! That's fantastic to hear after your bad luck with the fire. Have you got any pics or video of it running that you can post up on here? Cheers Tony

I always think most kinds of supposedly 'carbon effect' type of wrap just looks really cheesy and nothing like genuine CF tbh. Research suggests that if you're going to do it then 3M stuff is the way to go though (price is usually a good indicator of quality/ease of application and longevity). It does look a bit like the genuine cloth - but you would have to lacquer it to make it look anything like genuine CF. Also from research, even the reasonable quality stuff 'creeps' back from the edges over time.

Also remember that most panels are rubbish/don't fit/ill fitting and you will probably end up re-making everything that the Robin hood factory supplied anyway.......

Cheers guys - that's kind of what I was expecting you to say. Oh well - good job I didn't pay too much for them. Need to learn to ask for better pictures next time before buying things. Thought it would be ok buying from a fellow car builder on Locostbuilders though, live and learn eh.

Fantastic work! So how much did you save against an equivalent 'bought' item then is the question (lots I'm guessing)?

Afternoon all, I bought a pair of well used 3 point harnesses last week, (they were extremely cheap) - just in case I decided to change from the 4 point ones that I originally fitted . I was expecting to see a metal buckle plate for the top harness point - instead its just the belt folded over a bit and stitched:- Is this normal ie factory stitching - or is this something that's been modded/added? I can't quite see how it would work. Is it designed to be attached to a vertical bar running through it as I've tried to show with the long bolt in the last pic? I've put the TRS 4 point ones back on for now - but need to know whether to sell these on or if there's a mounting trick I've missed? Cheers Tony

I follow his items on Ebay and this notification popped up the other night - good to see he is still building things in his retirement! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Post-knee-replacement-operation-leg-straightening-device-/351184514908?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276 Cheers Tony

Wow - those look amazing Rob! Are they Brumsters old rear arches that you had off me? If so they are unrecognizable now - they look totally mint. Cheers Tony

Cheers for that - that's great news for me too actually as that's exactly what I went for as a guesstimate. Great to have feedback from someone who actually has theirs on the road. Cheers Tony

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Can I ask what poundage springs you went for out of interest?

Yes the brake fittings are M10x1 - I've been messing around a lot with them recently How come the standard electrical switch isn't working properly?

That's rather concerning for those of us still to go through the horrors of IVA! So is he suggesting you need one something like this at the steering wheel end in addition to the sliding triangular section at the bottom?!? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Simoni-Racing-Steering-Wheel-Collapsible-Boss-Kit-Volvo-C70-2002-524-245-/321282071270?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4acde75ae6 Which test center is this at by the way please? Cheers Tony

Awesome! Many thanks Bob, I did wonder if that was the case but thought it best to just stop and check. Many thanks once again Tony