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alanrichey

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Everything posted by alanrichey

  1. As far as I know it was the one used on the Rover 420 that the engine came from. And Richard Stewart had them internally modified to disable the immobiliser circuit. One problem you will have is that I don't think they have the data port fitted that you would need for the OBD. Certainly my local Rover specialist thought they could not be reprogrammed and we were stuck with what we had. I actually initiated a thread about the ECU at http://rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146043 when I was trying to find a spare, but without success. The problem is that there are different ones for the turbo and the petrol and the diesel and also if the engine uses dizzy or wasted spark (I assume we have the dizzy model) There should be a label on the ECU with a serial number but so far I haven't found a Superspec owner who has the label. I have an awful suspicion the people who modified them removed the labels. I guess yours doesn't have one either ? What would be nice is if we could figure out how to use a different, modern ECU to give us more control and access. But that is beyond my technical ability
  2. The Superspec (fuel injected engine) fuel lines are all flexible pipe throughout and I don't think any of us have had many problems except the pipes degrading over time because they were not of good enough quality.
  3. On my first time I forgot a bottle opener for the beer (thanks Ian) and a mallet for the tent pegs (ground is quite hard at Stoneleigh). And for same reason I would recommend a blowup mattress and a proper pillow
  4. Can you buy cans of 'freeze' spray anywhere. That would be worth trying.
  5. Interesting. I tried adding an extra earth strap some months ago and it made no difference. But I am now thinking I added the earth strap from the inlet manifold/fuel injector to the chassis. Might the manifold gasket be preventing it from acting as a decent earth to the engine block ?
  6. I got the idea from an American PBS program called "Car Talk" (http://www.cartalk.com/), one of the funniest programs I have ever listened to. I think the show has finished now as one of the brothers died, but they are still releasing a weekly podcast. Someone had phoned up asking this identical question and that was their answer. Apparently they had seen it quite a lot on whatever model of car they were talking about. Highly recommended listening if you are in need of cheering up.
  7. Standard problem with the Superspec (see my article in the magazine). Went through the new battery/advance/earth strap solutions with no luck. No help to you though as I reckon it is a design fault where the starter itself is buried deep down with no airflow, so gets cooked and struggles to crank.
  8. Good, glad to hear it's sorted. And not surprised to hear about the pipe, I think they were homemade from a couple of rubber steering gaiters. I have long since replaced mine with a proper fuel-resistant pipe. As for the immobiliser I think you are talking about an after-market one. The Superspec ECUs were internally modified to disable the built in immobiliser before they were issued with the kit, Unfortunately the firm involved, like RH Engineering, are long gone, so I am not sure what we SS owners do if we need a replacement,
  9. Interesting, I thought all these were reprogrammed by RH Engineering before they were issued, How do you deactivate yours ?
  10. Don't quote me. but I have a dim memory of asking Richard Stewart that question and he said a Ford Transit ? Would that make sense ? Funnily enough I mounted a replacement wing on some rubber blocks and the MOT chap complained it wobbled, so I has to revert back to mounting them direct to the supports
  11. until
    Camping available
  12. Just a heads up that this Show is on the weekend of 5/6 Sep (http://www.peterborough.gov.uk/leisure_and_culture/events_and_festivals/classic_and_vintage_vehicles.aspx). You have to pre-register at https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VehicleRegistration Camping is available and also the option of having a Club Stand. Not sure if there will be enough interest to justify a stand though. And it is the weekend just before the end-of-season bash so I guess we will be busy getting ready for that.
  13. I think we also have to assume that the F1 radiator will be enclosed in some sort of tunnel so that 100% of the air is forced to go through the radiator. With the best will in the world, unless a very tight-fitting cowl is fitted, in our case some of the air will flow around the edges and the over the top, and I would think that tilting it backwards (he talks about tilting it forwards), would make it more likely that air would tend to flow up and over the rad and not go through it (path of least resistance?)
  14. And here was me thinking the 70deg tilt of the Superspec radiator was a poor design choice, turns out to be 'bleeding-edge' technology
  15. Have you got a link to this store ? I can't find it.
  16. Are we arranging a pre-run RV at Uppingham before the run so we can park up together? Last year we were all over the place.
  17. I still haven't figured out my Superspec electrics but I think it might have 2 different relays. Certainly when my indicators failed because the relay got soaking wet, my hazards still worked perfectly. Does this mean the hazards must have a separate relay ? Or is there another explanation ? If so the problem might be a failed hazard relay. (And don't bother asking me where the relay is, I have no idea
  18. This map has been uploaded before and I found it invaluable on my first visit. I guess it doesn't do any harm to post it again Just be aware that the road past the Warwick Centre to the campsite (marked in Blue to 'B') is closed during Show hours and you have to go around the top of the map to get to the camp site. Last year the actual Club Stand was in the bottom left of our 'pitch' and the entrance was top left. Not sure if it will be the same this year ?
  19. I need to apologise for that. Realised too late that I am using a bulb as my auxiliary warning light (can't see the one in the dash) which does need a diode and that an LED is already a diode (the clue is in the name ) so adding one is pointless. Bring it to Stoneleigh and I'll buy it off you as a spare.
  20. OK, that makes sense. I think
  21. OK, so in that case you need a resistor in series with the LED to make it look like a bulb and then a resistor in parallel in case the LED fails
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