zhap135

Gents

On 4/8/2023 at 12:48 PM, Sparepart said:

Assuming that your engine is not running and you have a brake servo then the hiss is possibly the diaphragm in the servo forcing air somewhere like back to the inlet manifold. Disconnect the vacuum pipe and listen if the hiss changes or disappears. If this is the case then it can be ignored from the point of view of bleeding the brakes.

On 4/8/2023 at 5:15 PM, HAWKNORTH said:

If the seals have gone in either the master or brake cylinders you should see evidence in the form of leaking brake fluid. No resistance in the brake pedal travel and an audible hiss points to the servo as stated by "spare part" above.

Thanks Gents. Does this mean that there is not necessarily a problem? it's worht trying wth the engine running and the issue may not be evident?

Hello , I'm setting up teh brakes on my S7. I have what i believe is a new brake cylinder. Have bled the front brakes (at least managed to push fluid through) and now am having fun with the rear (drums). There is no resistance in the brake pedal and I can hear a hiss of escaping air - hard to identify exactly where from. Was thinking the seals on the cylinder might have gone - before I buy a new cylinder has anyone got any ideas?

Cheers all

Thanks

22 minutes ago, LewisH said:

Thanks! Yes, it was purely to raise the height of the belts. 

The C-channels that I used for the lower mounting points were 3mm gauge by the way. 

Brilliant, thanks! That's cool, I'll probably follow your lead and dispense itht hte complication f the lugs. This has been really useful, thanks so much!

2 hours ago, LewisH said:

I can't remember the gauge to be honest, I'll measure tomorrow and let you know, but yes it was belt and braces for me as this was an area of concern. 

With the shoulder mounts I added a crossbar to my rollbar for the belts to run over. Pic below.

 

Wow, what a spanker!. Glad to see that cross member, was thinking of something like that, although was thinking of welding lugs for the anchor bolts. How is your arrangement working, does it just lift the belts to the right height?

1 hour ago, LewisH said:

I did exactly this on my Exmo and passed in Feb this year with no comments on how I had mounted seat belts.

I used some C-channels with captive nuts on the outside, with additional spreader plates on the inside of chassis. Pics below.

I used top section of the rear tub for shoulder strap mounts, but fitted an extra piece of angle inside the tub to spread the load. 

thanks for that Lewis, that's a pretty substantial solution! Can you let me know what gauge steel you used there? Did you have guidance that that's what is required, or were you taking a belt and braces x1.5 approach?

On the shoulder mounts did you check teh height of the mounting as per Snapper's post above? According to the IVA I'am about 2" too low to mount directly to the interface of the tub/roll over bar (where I marked o with teh blue arrow on my photo), - one thought I had was welding a cross member to the upright stanchions of the ROB, and mount directly to that

Hi Snapper, thanks very much for that detail. as it happens I acquired a 36 from one of the other members a couple of weeks agao. That information woiill be really useful!.

I got the kit as a part complete some time ago, so the original plates are lost to history - don't remember them coming with it, and of course things may have been different at the time of manufacture.

Thanks for the heads up about the shoulder mounts, yes I'd love to see your build diary, thankyou so much. Will send an email now

33 minutes ago, Snapperpaul said:

I bolted spreader plates behind the panel, you don’t need to weld, I also did extensive triangulation of the rear upper belt mount and welded a tube across the roll hoop at the correct height as required for IVA

Aaaah, thanks Paul, that's really encouraging. Were they the typical square ones with a captive nut, about £3 a pop from CBS?

So I'd guess at a bolt in a couple of corners of the spreader, have got some M6 8.8 tensile ones I think. Does that sound about right?

Also would love to know more about the modifications to the roll bar. I didn't spot anything in the IVA manual in section 19 seat belts about that - is it mentioned elsewhere?

I've got an S7 , which has a monocoque chassis. Has anyone else fitted seat belts to this arrangement for IVA? how does it work? The IVA manual says that fit to flat panels is a source of concern, however I can't see what else I can fit to (the 3rd mounting point I believe to acceptable for the roll bar supports to the rear chassis - high;ighted in blue).

I was considering attaching both waste belt anchors to the panel behind the seat where the tunnel and wheel arch box section is bolted too the panel (red in pic), BUT I'm hesitant. I would at the very least need to weld some spreaders to this panel (I believe) but I don't want to start drilling /welding until I know that it's the right thing to do. 

There were original 2 holes that appeared to be for seat belts (yellow in pic), but no spreaders and not easy to access to weld

Any ideas? 

Magic, thanks so much really useful. My bonnet has very little space on teh flange to do this, but I'm sure I can make it work. Have ordered a set of pins

On 6/6/2022 at 10:09 AM, zhap135 said:

Sorry, smig, I only just spotted this (9 months later......) - thanks very much for the tip. I may well follow this advice

Hi Smig, dunno if you'll get this - do you perchance have a photo of how you set this up?

On 9/15/2021 at 4:12 PM, Smig380 said:

Mine has three dowels along one of the long edges, these give enough stability for the four bonnet catches to do the job

Sorry, smig, I only just spotted this (9 months later......) - thanks very much for the tip. I may well follow this advice

3 hours ago, Snapperpaul said:

Just putting a 2.0L carb on a 1.6L is likely to over fuel the smaller engine

Thanks for responding Snapper. Is your opinion that the 36 is oversized?

1 hour ago, Peter Bell said:

I’ll dig it out first and send you a pm. Where abouts are you?

Brilliant, I'm in Letchworth so just up the road from  you.

Sold to the badger in the tree!

How shall we do this? Paypal?

If on the outside chance you are anywhere on the A1M corridor in the near future might be able to meet up....

13 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

Think I’ve got a dgav  32/36? But will it fit your manifold, I think the mounting ctrs  are slightly different. Can you measure yours?

Hi Peter. I'm looking for a manifold too - might have found one I think. How much were you after for the carb?

Hello Trev, might be jsut what I'm looking for. Will this fit a 1600 Pinto?

Do you have any idea about the postage? Am in North Herts

42 minutes ago, IanS said:

32/36 refere to the choke diamters.

The primary is 32mm for good MPG at part throttle

The secondary is 36mm for when you unleash the horses.

I have this carb on a 2l pinto and recently got 38MPG on a 220 mile round trip on mainly secondary roads.

Thanks Ian, am slowly piecing together what all teh nubmers and letters mean!

1 hour ago, tractor said:

Don't forget to disconnect the vac advance when checking timing and block off pipe 

 

 

Thanks Trator! yes disconnected, but didn't block the pipe, will have another look in over teh weekend

2 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

Hi Andy,
the DGAV is a good carb, and will work, although it may be a bit big for a 1.6. so you may need to change some of the jets, but it will be a big improvement over Ford's VV carb. Unfortunately, you will also need a matching manifold. The DGAV carb will not fit on a VV manifold, the bolt spacing is different.
It sounds like the ignition timing is out. it needs to fire about 8-12 degrees BTDC at tickover. The flash will be irregular at tickover, so set it to a fast tickover first, to check your strobe, then reduce it.

There is a deeper mark on the crank pulley for TDC. Turn the engine anti clockwise about 1/2 to 1 inch. You should see 2, 3, or4 smaller grooves. These are the timing marks probably at 8, 10 and 12 degrees BTDC.
A haynes manual describes setting timing very well. You may be able to find one on line if you dont have one.

Thanks Bob!

Yup, got the haynes and identified the grooves and filled them with tipex to highlight them. 

What does the numbers 32/36 refer to?

I have the old Ford VV fitted at the mo - has anyone got a weber or aga lying about?

Probably to late, but is the carb still knocking about?

1 hour ago, IanS said:

Ford venturi carb was not very good and does not age well.

Replace with dgav off a 2l pinto, someone is bound to have one kicking arround after an upgrade.

hanks Ian - can well believe that, although managed to pick up service kit a year or so back, and replaced all the perishable parts.

With teh DGAV, is there anything I should particularly be looking for, or si a DGAV from a 2l a straight swap? I'm seeign 32/36 a lot, which I think is suitable for an engine like mine

Hello all. 

1.6 sierra pinto, PC project, venturi carb.

Engine runs , but barely sustains tick over unless given a bit of throttle, and even then....  Very little torque/power.

HAve had a timing light on the pulley, but get some very odd readings off that - the grades are rarely orientated even close to the marker on flash.

I think the mix is okay (but not even certain about that), and I have never changed/moved the timing/dizzy (although I couldn't guarantee that the previous owner didn't mess/move it)

Any tips on where to start?

5 minutes ago, IanS said:

The air will only go into the top tank of the radiator reliably if the top tank is a bit higher than the thermostat.

Yes, definitely is.That's brilliant, thanks Ian!