HAWKNORTH

I,ll nip in the garage and have a look if I can see any ident on mine. back in a mo.

If you haven't got a specific jacking point on your car, ie on your kit car, then always put a piece of wood between the jack and the point of contact. Helps stop the jack slipping.

Removing rounded nuts. Okay, so not the best of opening lines but we've all been there. The nut has rounded off at the corners, spanner just slips, ring spanner not much beter, mole grips etc just making it worse, no burning tackle. If space and access allow then a Cold chisel and a hammer may be the answer. You need to spread the nut and free it from the thread of the bolt. Position the blade of the chisel in line with the bolt which puts it at 90deg down one of the faces of the nut. A few good blows with the hammer will spread the nut and hopefully release it enough for it to unscrew from the bolt. If the nut is very old then it may even split and come off altogether. This technique is really only for bigger dia bolts and very dependant on access but has worked well in the past for me. Watch your thumb with that hammer

Lots of fiddling to got them set up so stick with it and you'll get there!

Went for a quick run. First of the year, large smile, nice feeling. No bit fell off, nothing broke. So far so good.

I wont be able to make it after all. Stuck in London (working)

Does your garage leak ?

I think you need to get this one on some ramps and have a very good look around. If the front wishbone pivot points have been neglected to the extent you describe then how about the rest of the car. I'm not trying to be negative, but would hate to hear about something nasty happening while you were driving on the road. The amount of force needed to cause the damage shown in your picture is frightening. Be safe not sorry.

Should be there. Kit taxed and ready to go!

That cracking looks nasty. My s3 has been on the road for 17 years ( 11 of them in my ownership) . The only cracks I have had so far are the typical tub to front cross member ones. This winter I did the grease nipple in the wishbone mod but was plesantly suprised to find the pin already well lubricated and no signs of hole wear. I dont know what rating the front shocks are or even what make. I have a good look at every weld I can find every few month just to check.

It does when your having fun. LOL.

Looking forward to getting the S3 back on the road next month. I,ve done a few mods and maintenance jobs over the winter period. Replaced leaded head with an unleaded item. New stem seals and cam belt. Replacement cam belt cover. Replaced air filters on webers. Wishbone ball joints replaced. Grease nipples fitted to wishbone pivot points. Shock absorber bushes and bolts replaced. Extra brace fitted to pedal box. Diff and gearbox oil topped up. Prop shaft U/V joints greased. Auxiliary power point fitted in dash. Roll on summer

The hood on my 3A is a very good fit, but as Chris says above go for the awning rail front fixing. Mine has the press fasteners all round and it does leak over the top of the windscreen. I dont bother with the door at all if I can help it!

A bit of silicone cement does the trick too if the covers are a bit too big.

I hope to make this one, not working away at present.

Awesome!

I've towed for a number of years. Horse box, caravan, trailer etc with various vehicles. Currently using a BMW x1 which is very good. But the best towing vehicle I've ever owned was a Landrover.

Look on the bright side, you've had a lucky escape there mate! That would have been a major bum twitcher if it had gone on the road.

There is a rumour that the club also has some sane members too. Let us know if you ever meet any. LOL . Welcome to the club.

Just a few weeks ago i swapped the old leaded head on my 2.1 for a newer unleaded head. On stripping down the old leaded head I was amazed at the good condition of the valves and seats. Very little signs of wear at all. This is after running on unleaded fuel for more than 10 years. I used to pour in the odd drop of addative now and again when I remembered. In other word, don't panic!

It maybe something else altogether. If the head has been skimmed at all this will give you a higher compression and the engine will be harder to turn over.

Will try and make it this month, working away but coming back Wednesday sometime.

The stainless is a Ferritic stainless which means it has a high ferrous content and is therefore magnetic and prone to the rust devils. Elbow grease to remove the rust spots and if youre SORNed for the winter a wipe over with a lightly oiled rag is a good idea. I mean the car not you!

AND THEN THE INSURANCE!! MY DAUGHTER IS LEARNING AT THE MOMENT, WE USE A LOCAL GUY WHO IS GOOD. SO SHOP AROUND AND GET HER TO ASK FRIENDS WHO THEY USED AND IF THEY WERE ANY GOOD ETC. REGARDING THE INSURANCE, MY WIFE HAS GOT THE DAUGHTER INSURED ON A PROVISONAL POLICY WHICH ALLOWS HER TO DRIVE THE WIFES CAR WHILE SHE IS LEARNING. THIS CAN BE TAKEN OUT FOR 1, 2, 3 ETC MONTHS COVER. (CANT REMEMBER WHICH COMPANY OF HAND) BUT WE THOUGHT THIS WAS A GOOD IDEA TO ALLOW MORE DRIVING EXPERIENCE WHILE HAVING PROPER LESSONS AS WELL. TRAWL THE INTERNET.

I like the idea of mounting the bearing on a seperate plate, I'll give that idea some thought.