HAWKNORTH

Working away, so not going to make it.

I plan to do mine over the winter along with a few other mods. Car now on SORN. I think if I remove the brake servo and master cylinder I should have enough room. (Famous last words).

Thats the link that shows you how. They are hard to get at, well mine is, its under the pedal box if you attack from the engine bay or down the footwell from inside the car. You need U/Js in your arms and they need to be 6 foot long.

How about "A bag of sparks for the grinder!"

Also, you need to be of careful of the filters in the masks that come with these cheap imports. They are not always up to standard.

The Cam belt Gremlin must be touring our area at the moment chaps. Keep a lookout for the little devil.

Many thanks for the offer Craig thats really good of you but I'm sure I'll be okay now. Thanks again for the offer.

Thanks Steamer for the full set up details. I've copied a disc wheel from the internet and printed it off. I have a DTI and now with all the info should be alright. Auxiliary pulley is nice and free as is the Cam itself with the followers removed. We live and learn Mower man, it must be the Yorkshireman in me! Thanks for the help guys.

Yeah thanks Si, I have a feeling it was perhaps out a tooth or two and maybe over tight as well

My 18 year old daughter says it looks "sick" . She then explained that "sick" is a complement in young speech. Well I never!

I seem to spend half my time trying to keep the webers set up. We,ll see, need to get the engine back together first. see Stripped cam belt post.

I whipped the head off again just to make sure that it had not done any damage. All looks fine. Turned the cam shaft with a spanner to check movement of valves etc, all ok, just the resistance of the springs as you would expect. Stripped out the cam followers to check free rotation of cam shaft, again no problem, shaft turns freely by hand. I marked the cam belt on the first strip down so Im pretty sure it went on the right way. So in other words Im not sure what caused the problem. With the head still off, whats the best way to set up the timing. Kent cam FB32. All my original marks are in place so will use these if I have to and try again at the weekend with fingers crossed.

No, I used the old one which looked ok. I hope that it's only the belt thats gone. I'm worried that I must have got something a bit wrong although I dont think so. I must admit that i,m not that happy with setting up the timing etc. Its got a vernier pulley which i have no idea how to use.

Your thoughts required please. I changed the cylinder head at the weekend, swapping a unleaded head for the old leaded one. This is on a 2.1 Pinto. I marked the position of all the pulleys in relation to the timing belt etc.I used the Kent cam, valve springs and cam followers from the old head. I used the valve that came with the replacement head. The old head had been skimmed the replacement is a standard 2.0 litre. I made sure that nothing moved while I did the swap and set the cam in the same position in the replacement head as it was in the old one. I put everything back together and fired her up. The engine started after a short delay and everything apeared ok. After running for a couple of minutes the engine stopped. I tried to start it again but quickly noticed that while the crank was turning the cam was not. The cam belt had stripped a number of teeth. I cut the belt free and tried all the pulleys in turn to see if anything had siezed. The dizzy drive turned by hand, the crank with a spanner on the pulley nut and the cam with a spanner on the pulley nut with resistance as the valve springs were compressed as you would expect. Any ideas as the best way forward please.

I,ve just finished changing the cylinder head on my pinto. Jacked up front of car and filled rad. Engine then ran for a few mins with rad cap off. topped up as air bled out and water level dropped. No probs.

I'm thinkink of ditching the twin 45 Webers and going down the bike carb route. So, the question to all you knowledgable lot is this. What bike carbs can be fitted to a 2ltr pinto engine. Can someone list the suitable carbs please. I know that an inlet manifold will be required, but what else will I need to change or purchase to make this happen.Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys, and thanks for the loan offer. A workmate has come up trumps with the right socket so all should be well for the head swap. Thanks again.

Not torx bolts. I will be using torxbolts on the replacement but need to get the 12 pointed old ones out first.

Can anyone tell me what size Head bolt socket I need. The bolts are the older type that need the triple square 12 pointed type of socket, but what size do I need ie m10, m12 etc. Thanks in advance.

Thats different!

Thanks Craig, nice to have met you and good doing business too. Cheers. Dave.

I cut about 1" of the bottom of my sump. S3 running 2.1 pinto. No extra capacity was added but I do keep the oil level up towards the top mark on the dipstick. It has run like this for about 8 years with no probs. Also managed to remove and replace sump with the engine in place, bit of a fiddle but possible.

Signed

I,ve got a bit of man flu, is this connected in any way???

Should be able to make it. Tin top though.