lockyer89

These could possibly be the answer! Centrally fixed so no need to think about clipping the one end. Easily fixed the screen frame! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-FIAT-PANDA-SUN-VISORS-X-2-/151650797943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3AFiat&hash=item234f178977

Was out in the hood last night and when the sun is low in the sky, without sun visors i can't see a thing!! Was wondering whether there were any genius ideas for fitting them?

Both the crank case and top end are ventilated well. I don't remember seeing a baffle plate, so that will be the next step! Thanks Nigel!! Don't suppose these are off the shelf items?

Sometimes when driving the car hard, i notice a little oil spillage from the cap and sits around the rocker cover. It's a pretty modified pinto with a 270-280 degree cam, stage 4 head. I put a high pressure oil pump on as well. Anyone come across this before? I'm guessing it's down to the pump pumping hard at high revs. What sort of caps do people use? Catch tank may be the way to go... Thanks!

I can vouch for Aldon Amethyst at Aldon Engineering in Birmingham. They lock the advance mechanism on your existing distributor and the little amethyst box does the rest. Worked wonders for a while, however i've recently changed camshaft so awaiting on a rolling road session.

I have a FR33 ...

The little white vacuum plug that goes in the back of the brake servo. My one broke

As the title reads, my offside rear wheel has rather drastic negative camber, it's worn the inside of the tyre very quickly!! I'm not aware of any camber adjustment on the rear? Sierra based 2B. Can anyone point me in a vague direction... ta! (Moved from Mechanics section)

Pm sent

Thanks chaps! Fingers crossed it passes Saturday, looks like we're in for a bit of sun too!

Nigel, it's a Westfield exhaust manifold, actually fit much nicer than the standard rh one! I will contact the guys I got the head off to see exactly what was done, I got that a little while back. This is the first engine I've actually built up myself so it's been a learning curve!! Just getting my head around compression ratios etc..

Bob I only say low compression as that's what I was told, thinking about it though, having a cam that kicks in at 3000rpm, compression won't rise until I'm within the cam duration...I bought the engine fully rebuilt and refurbished. I've had it apart to inspect so I know it's good. I will get myself a compression tester and let you know what it reads. They also advised not to run a return from the webers...but I'm guessing that's if I go with the pump and reg... Any who, I think I'm going to stick with what I've got for the mean time, I've spent the past 10 months rebuilding this, I need to get out and enjoy it!! MOT booked for Saturday morning!!

The set up I've got is as follows; stage 4 head, 44.5mm inlet and 38.1mm exhaust with valve seats. 4 branch exhaust manifold, twin 45 webers and lightened flywheel. Standard 205 bottom end, fitted some arp conrod bolts to make sure. Standard Sierra ignition. It's running the mechanical fuel pump. I think that's where i'll go next, upgrade the ignition. Would you recommend a facet with filter king reg? Cheers

All of the above i have been recommended by the rolling road company. I'm running a KCFR33, which is a 300 deg camshaft. The guy's at CFM Engineering say i'd get more power from a lesser cam, perhaps a 280 degree as compression is low... Also running a facet solid state fuel pump and filter king regulator... There are a couple of different options: Two different options for the Facet Fuel Pump; Fast Road - Up to 150 bhp, 18 Gallons p/hour and 4 - 5.5 psi Competition - Up to 180 bhp, 25 Gallons p/hour and 6 - 7 psi And finally the Fuel Reg - Filter King 67mm bowl - suitable for up to 150bhp 85mm bowl - suitable for over 150bhp The Rolling Road came out at 140bhp, the guy recons he could get 160bhp with those mods, which would mean i'd have to go with the second choice of each... Anyone have any thoughts? The bottom end is standard, Pinto btw! Cheers

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/lockyer89/library/Kit%20Car%20Rebuild Just some from the rebuild...

At the minute it's got the Kent FR33 installed which is a 300 degree cam, and as I've got the quaife vernier pulley, i was going to stick to Kent. I've actually got an FR21 at home, that's 262 deg inlet and 272 deg exhaust. But i think i'm going to go for the FR22 Cam with 272 deg inlet and 285 deg exhaust. Why no need for a fuel reg? I assumed going for a pump you'd want a reg to go with... i assumed wrong! Not looking to change dizzy for now, will contact in the future though!

You'll all be glad to know the problem was Spark Plugs!! As i said before the engine just seemed to like the well advanced ignition, this caused the spark plugs to burn out - but, we removed the plugs, tested each one and there was a spark on each (guessing they were breaking down under compression). I happened to take some old plugs with me and popped them in and bang we were away! ​Got it on the rolling road, got a relatively pleasing figure of 141 bhp. Few things to alter though, a less lairy cam, want to run a 270 degree cam instead of 300 as i'm loosing compression. Also a facet fuel pump and a filter king regulator. Then I am finished, ready for the winter!!! This rebuild has only taken about 5 months more than expected!!

Sorry Clive, may have misunderstood, they were actually happy with the Webers. With a few adjustments to the chokes and venturi's, they were running much better. But like you say it was breaking down under load. They've actually still got the car and have got an auto electrician to give it a once over tomorrow morning. So hoping i will know more tomorrow! Will update.

Yeah there is a new cam in there and has been run in correctly. The next opportunity I've got to work on the car is Friday, so i'll whip the rocker cover off then and inspect! Thanks Nigel.

Rotar arm has. HT leads were giving to me when I bought the car, sealed in the packet. Will change for peace of mind though...

It idles fine and revs well without any spitting, might be a silly question, but why wouldn't this be effected?

I put the head together myself, valve clearances were set to the cam data sheet. Haven't checked since the engine has been run, definitely worth a check, cheers Grim!

Not great unfortunately! In fact, the car is still there!! So we got there at 8:30, ready for a 9am start. First things first was checking jets, chokes etc for the carbs, as guessed majority of these needed changing. Off to EuroCarb we went to pick up the relevant bits. They had a good look over the carbs and were happy with what they saw. Got the car running, adjusted the ignition timing slightly and then onto the rollers. Remember that problem i was having with the misfiring, popping under load - that came back! Before, to fix that, we over advanced the dizzy by about 30 degree and it ran so much smoother (it shouldn't have, but just liked it) Started to accelerate on the rollers and pop fart bang smoke. So, we're basically back to square one. We tried a new dizzy, new ignition module (motorcraft) new coil. Nothing. Unfortunately we ran out of time and we weren't home till 7 o'clock. Just a process of elimination now. The only original wiring on the car is that from the ignition module, so that's the next step getting that changed. New ht leads for peace of mind. Getting an auto electrician to have a sweep over the loom, make sure earths are good, wires are thick enough etc etc. So not a great weekend! lol So annoying, i'm this close to mot'ing the car - it's just the last push! We are using a company called CFM Engineering in Reading. Would recommend, there's not much they don't know about the webers. Just a shame it had to end up like this!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251667961930?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Desperate need for a dizzy. Not points, elec module.