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danielbrookes

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Everything posted by danielbrookes

  1. Brumster the MAP sensor is from Emerald and is calibrated as per their sheet, it states 100KPA with ignition on and engine *NOT* running which I believe is right (if that has any bearing on anything). It’s an odd one, works been hectic so I’ve only managed an hour on and off. Tomorrow I can concentrate on it and hopefully make some progress.
  2. Hey, thanks for the help. It started at Missfire are cruise, went to two cylinders constantly misfiring and tow home. Repeatable after heat cycle and cold start next day, two cylinders down. Checked spark at all 4 plugs (I have one) and now it’s misfiring and stalling at constant throttle (the logs are 7% throttle and no load on drive). I’ve ran out of juice in the battery and it’s on charge now. MAP is getting its vacuum from plenum behind throttle. It’s a strange one, I’ve just replaced Crank sensor which made no difference - but to be fair the battery died.
  3. Thanks, I’ll wait for a full charge before I see what’s happening. Definately 11.7 is too low
  4. Replaced crank sensor (£25) no different, testing old one it looked fine anyway resistance within tolerance and voltage produced when I chucked some metal past it....not exactly a scientific test I know. But for £25 it was worth a go. Anyway I am wondering if this is alternator\battery related. Reason being the battery is now flat after idling for a few minutes. I am getting 3V per injector (should be 12V right?) but the battery is flat, starter no longer turns. So its in the garage charging. I did notice the battery voltage was low even thought engine was running (11.7V) so before I do anything else I am going to fully charge and confirm its up at 14.5V when idling. It certainly was from memory before all this started. Looking at the logs I sent does the battery voltage look OK or seem low? If I dont get anywhere after a full charge and the alternator putting out the correct voltage I may take it to a specialist.
  5. Regarding the map, no fiddling with ignition advance or injector timings. Its almost like whatever has happened has got progressively worse over a short period and now its very noticable\undrivable.
  6. Excellent response, appreciate it. I'll give it some thought and come up with a plan of action, thanks for taking the time out to look and being so quick
  7. file1.lg1file2.lg2file2.lg1file1.lg2 Brumster my brother has just turned up with his wife so apologies if I go quiet. Here are the logs, the engine stalled at the end of the first log and almost stalled end of second. You will see I kept the TPS constant. Any insight or tips would be great. My thoughts are to replace the crank position sensor next, £25 from europarts unless you think that isnt the issue.
  8. Absolutely spot on, answered my questions before I even asked them :). It’s doing it again now on the drive, I’ll see if I can get some logs for you. Thanks for your help. For info at the moment if I holt throttle at 7% it will sit at 1.7k RPM and start to fluctuate, struggle and eventually stall.
  9. Bought a spark plug tester light, the type you put between the plug and ht lead. Checked each plug and each is getting a spark. Now the engine runs on all 4 cylinders without issue. Back to intermittent This is annoying.
  10. Ahh OK that makes sense. With my symptoms then, would it still suggest there is an issue with the side of the coil that fires cylinder 2+3? Considering I have already changed the coil, leads and plug next step would be wiring? If I were to unplug coil and crank engine over, would a multimeter show 12v on each pin as it “fires”?
  11. Hi, are they not sooty because of the misfiring? Induction is supercharger to GBS plenum. From what I have read the firing order is 1-4 and 2-3. The pins on the coil pack, I thought the centre was 12v and then either side is the driver for cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 (as per attached). If that’s correct then surely only 1-4 and 2-3 can fire at the same time? Hope my ramblings make sense.
  12. Thanks, I was logging at the time and one of the things I logged was TPS - unfortunately that looks fine, but will check again. Started the car for first time after I got towed yesterday and same problem. Looking at the positives that’s good, it’s constant. Checked wiring to Crank sensor, seems fine 2v to red and negative is earthed correctly. The actual sensor could be faulty - RPM reads consistsly. Plugs 1+4 look perfect as you would expect for new plugs, after only 10 miles both 3+2 are full of soot. I wonder if it’s one of the coil driver wires. IMG_3644.HEIC
  13. Thanks, coil, plus and leads already replaced before the issue got (progressively) worse and it gave up. I’m going to start with the crank sensor, hope it’s that.
  14. Thanks I’ll take a look. I hadn’t even considered the crank sensor I was concentrating on spark and/or fuel injectors. Hopefully tomorrow I can reproduce the issue (it was idling rough as a dog and misfiring like mad earlier). I am sure I cought the wiring when replacing the alternator bracket because I remember thinking I need to be careful. Fingers crossed it’s an easy fix.
  15. Oh now that’s a good shout, any way to test? I guess if it’s doing it all the time now I can plug the ecu in and see it “jump”. I did replace my alternator mount last week and I could have knocked it.
  16. Eurgh. What an annoying day! I developed an intermittent misfire on my Zetec blacktop early last week. Literally seemed to miss for a second whilst cruising. Then fine for a minute or so, then a second of mis again. Rather than mess on I replaced the coil pack, leads and plugs. Difficult to tell if it resolved it but took the car for a drive and it seemed to be fine. Great. Driving along tonight at 60mph it starts missing and losing power, pull over and limp home. Gradually it lost more and more power (but no change in note) then it finally gave up and is constantly missing - it sounded like a motor bike. Had to get towed home Where would you guys start? I am thinking compression test first, assuming that’s OK what next? Can I test the coil connector easily enough with a multimeter? I hope not too much damage has been done
  17. Thanks again for comments. I can’t remember re fitting the pedals it was a good few years ago. I’m going to spend some time on it and see how I go, everything said applies - the cable angle is wrong (about 45 degrees). I don’t think the cable run is as short as it could be, not sure about the bushes. I’ll give it a good work over and if I can sort a drive out that will help.
  18. Thanks both. It just feels old, clunky and mechanical - I guess it’s because it is mechanical and not drive by wire. My issue may be the pedal box as there is some flex in it. It’s a hard one to explain really and I was wondering if a pedal box was the easy bolt on solution to a more modern feeling drive. The pedals themself are fine I think it’s the throttle cable and the breaks feel “old”. A servo may help. Maybe I need to spend some time going through the whole setup.
  19. Totally get that, but wondered if it could be improved. My wife will not drive it as a result which is a pain as I think she will love it. I’ve spent so much on it it’s the one area I am not 100% happy with so for the sake of a few hindered quid is it worth looking at? Plus it gives me something else to tinker with .
  20. Hi, Strange one but I really don’t like how my pedals feel. Everything works fine but they feel a little “mechano” if that makes sense. I don’t like the way the accelerator cable is fitted to the pedal box and it’s all very notchy/old feeling. When I drive my tin top it drives like a new car because, well it is! The accelerator feels really smooth (probably drive by wire), the brakes are really smooth and it just feels nice to drive. My kit is the opposite even though it’s new. I was thinking is there a way of replicating that smooth/new feeling? Perhaps with a pedal box like this https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/obp-universal-kit-car-pedal-box-252525/ I love my kit but the one thing that lets it down (and also stops the wife driving it) is the pedals and how it “feels”. Hope I am making sense but wondered if anyone else had done anything to improve the drive experience? My Zero is all brand new, done 2.5k miles. The brake cylinder is an old Sierra one and it’s the standard pedal setup. Thanks, Dan
  21. Hi, I used these guys recently for an alternator bracket but they do all sorts, really good quality and the blokes very friendly and helpful. https://m.facebook.com/daperformanceengineering/ Might be useful for someone. thanks, Dan
  22. Hi, are they these from kitspares? https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=43_12&product_id=771&car=43
  23. Went to get the car tuned yesterday and we had a problem with the belt again, at 3.5-4K it slipped. The tuner said it was strange how the power came all in at once, however, he removed my pre charger throttle so I now only have a single throttle on plenum. He tuned the car but said he had to compromise the map slightly because of the belt slip, told me to sort slip, put it in auto tune and see how I go then bring it back to be finished. Well I fixed the belt slip and oh my - the car is transformed! I’ve made other changes, lightened flywheel being one of them, but it’s night and day. I’ve always felt disappointed in the cars acceleration - not anymore. It’s positively frightening when you plant it. I have a small list of things to complete before I return it for it’s final tune. I’m replacing my bypass valve with a brand new one as he suspected it could be faulty. I’ve also got some tidying up to do with vacuum cables and need to fit a barbe/swage to the end of fuel rail. Easy stuff. Anyone who is thinking of fitting a charger - do it! At the moment I’m “only” pushing 200bhp/200ftlbs but I can’t stop smiling!
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