danielbrookes

I never managed to fix this and it’s starting to annoy me. The connection to the motor is fine, does anyone know which relay is the intermittent wiper relay?

Anyone selling one? My sump it’s beginning to grind on me - it’s importable to get a decent seal and I’ve tried everything. Think I need to bit the bullet and buy a decent piece of kit.

Hi, Discovered this app today and it seems to work: Easy Tension You put in your belt details like 6PK and then the span length between two pulleys, it then uses the microphone to measure the tension in the belt when you twang it! Might be of use to someone. I’m convinced my belt is way too tight but I will now know for sure :). The gates site also has a decent tool for recommended tension here: Gates Tool. Like I say may be of use to someone :). ta, Dan

Engines been in/out loads, rewired alternator and just finished fitting my supercharger. In my haste one evening I connected battery on wrong way in the dark - never again. Thought I was lucky; I guess I was with only one fuse going pop! Thanks for the help.

Fixed - lesson learned, KISS! It was a blown 15A fuse. Replaced the fuse, job done. Oh well at least its kept me entertained for a few hours and hopefully my indicators are a little less "clunky" after their clean Gotta laugh I always look for the complicated solution when the answer is really simple. I do have one frustration and that is I have no details for the fuse box, even though its a plug and play loom from GBS. I now know what one of the fuses is for at least.

So cleaned the stalk, no joy. I've taken off the stalk and found a sierra wiring diagram, if I check for continuity between the pin for left indicator (L) and the flasher relay (49A) I get continuity when the stalk is switched down. Same when I check the pin for right indicator (R) with stalk up. Wondering if this is an issue with the wiring rather than the switch itself. Will check the earths for the indicators on the rest of the loom. It seems strange how the hazard lights work but I am no expert, I thought they shared the same flasher relay? I'll check my fuse\relay diagram from GBS...oh wait...I don't have one!

Hmm sounds like it’s a pain in the rear. I might try soaking them in contact cleaner, could get lucky.

Morning, My Sierra indicator stalk has been a bit “iffy” over the last year. A couple of times the indicators have stopped working, a quick squirt of wd40 and some usage sorted them out. Now they have stopped completely. Hazards, full beam all work just indicators do nothing at all. My first ides was to buy a replacement stalk, wow they aren’t readily available are they! So my options I think are: 1. Take it apart and give it a proper clean, will I regret that decision or is it fairly simple? 2. Fit alternative stalks. Are there any plug any play ones available say from an escort, focus etc? I don’t want to be messing on too much with wiring as my car is booked in end of this month for a tune. What are people’s thoughts? Cheers.

Sorry for the silence guys - had a bit of an accident in the garage, managed to get a small bit of metal in the eye from angle grinder. Trip to A&E all sorted but lesson learned. I'll be wearing my welding mask in future..... Might have a look at this tomorrow and will post pics up then.

Morning, Hope everyone’s having fun tinkering, I certainly am :). I have a question about changing a throttle cables ratio. I am not sure what to search for/solution to implement and wondered if anyone could help. I have a duel throttle supercharger setup which is now working fine. The problem I have is I am not able to get full throttle travel on the supercharger throttle. This is because the throttle on the inlet is fully open. Both cables are attached to the pedal so move at the same time. I’ve read about leaving slack on the supercharger cable but that’s only when the throttle opens too quickly; I have the opposite problem. Do I need to fit some kind of “ratio” device? I am hoping something clever that sits inline with the cable is available. Thanks, Dan

Richy - you are a star! You mentioned a BOV and it got me thinking about the bypass valve. I went back to basics and it seems so simple now, the fault was no vacuum at bypass valve. The butterfly wasn’t opening at all because there was no vacuum - I assume because I have a throttle at plenum. Hooked up a vacuum hose from plenum and voila, issue fixed! Thank you so much for your help. Now I need to work on my tensioner alignment as it’s 1mm off, easy fix. I am so happy and as usual Rhocar produces the goods :). Have a virtual beer on me.

Thanks, that also explains why I have issues with the plenum connected. I did wonder but wrongly assumed that my bypass valve took care of that. I have an IACV from when I built the car but I could never get it to idle properly with one and the tuner I used didn’t rate them. I think I’ll dust it off once this is sorted. Tomorows job then will be to get it running with outlet disconnected and of course to research blow off valves. Thanks again!

Thanks for taking the time to reply. The bypass is to pass air from supercharger inlet to supercharger outlet via a pipe that bypasses the charger. My understanding is that at idle the bypass valve is open and the supercharger is bypassed, avoiding heat build up. Boost gauge is on the shopping list...maybe I should bump it up! I was planning on getting one after I had got her running.

If I disconnect the outlet it works fine - no squeal and that’s the bit I don’t get. For the boost side, based on my pulley ratio I should be producing 12psi (ish) at max RPM.

No, I only have the bypass valve (from a mini). I didn’t think a blow of valve was required - but that was based on my research and I am by no means an expert! You have my cogs turning now, especially as I don’t have any issues when outlet is disconnected. I have supercharger outlet > intercooler > second throttle > plenum.

Evening Richy, yea it’s got both inlet (including bypass valve) and outlet connected up. I have filter > throttle > bypass valve > inlet > charger > outlet (if that makes sense). The bypass is between the throttle butterfly and the inlet of charger. I tried manually opening the bypass valve, which opened fine, but made no difference to squeal. Im thinking of hooking the charger up to my drill as a test... with no belt attached.

Well a day in the garage and no further forward. Tensioner fitted (belt is now really, really tight). Should the supercharger pulley get too hot to touch within literally 10 seconds of running? All the pulleys seem to be aligned and I don’t see how I can get the belt any tighter. If I spin the supercharger pulley by hand it seems OK but clearly that’s not very fast - is there a way of testing the charger?

That’s really kind and helpful if you Rich, thanks for the offer.

It’s a new bearing it came with my reduced pulley - the guy I bought it off seems to know his stuff and had good reviews on eBay. I just don’t have the skill or tools to make one myself unfortunately. It’s a roller bearing 30mm X 47mm X 22mm.

Tried using an additional idler and getting the belt as tight as possible no joy. I’ve admitted defeat and bought a proper tensioner, the same one linked actually. Ive noticed that the supercharger pulley gets very hot quickly even after 30 seconds or running. I guess that adds to the belt slipping conclusion, makes sense it gets hot. Really hope the tensioner sorts it as I’ve spent months getting to this stage and it feels like I’m so close.

Strange. Liberally squirting the groove side of pulley whilst outlet is disconnected from plenum makes no difference, no slip at all. It behaves itself when disconnected with and without water spray. I’ll crack on with the tensioner anyway as it sounds like that’s a requirement regardless.

Thanks for your help, gives me confidence that it’s belt slip and explains what’s happening.

No, I’m using the alternator and top idler pulley to adjust tension - although that’s on the opposite side of the engine to the charger. Rich from Red Seven messaged me last night and he thinks it could be belt slip so belt tensioner could be a good shout. It just sounds really loud for a belt and I also don’t understand why it’s only doing it when connected to plenum.

Your probably right. The other reason for me was the throttle I have has a TPS, it was easier to leave it where it is for wiring and I know it works with my ECU. Ill see how I get on once I sort this damn noise out.

Hi, before I fitted a supercharger I had difficulty getting a decent idle as did my tuner. He blamed it on the volume of air in the plenum, I couldn’t get an IACV to work either. Fast forward to me fitting a supercharger I opted for duel throttles to help with idle and throttle response, that’s my theory anyway based on the research I have done. If you imagine a single throttle on the cold side of the charger there’s a large amount of air between it and the inlet.