danielbrookes

Cheers, it’s mostly his posts I’ve been following from here and a few other places . I would probably have taken it to him but with covid I couldn’t. The thing that I don’t understand is if it was bearings then surely it would happen when not connected to plenum. Only thing I can think is vacuum increase.

Hi, I’ve been working on a supercharger project for my Zero. It’s running on a Blacktop and I’ve spent ages researching, learning and now I’m stuck. I made the bracket for the supercharger myself (with inspiration from posts on here so I really can’t take all the credit). I also fabricated the inlet and outlet. I am running an Eaton M62, it has a bypass valve and I have a throttle pre supercharger and the standard throttle in the GBS plenum post supercharger. If I leave the outlet between the intercooler and plenum disconnected I have no issue; but clearly the supercharger isn’t providing boost. I get no belt squeal and it sounds what I would say “normal”. If I connect the supercharger to the plenum I get a very (and I mean very) loud mechanical squeal. First I thought it was the belt or a pulley but I don’t understand how because disconnected from the plenum it works fine. Any ideas? Just to clarify it’s a loud, really loud squeal. Videos attached. I am hoping it’s something daft. I’ve already replaced the oil in the charger. If the charger is broken that’s also fine but I want to be sure before I buy a new one. IMG_3380.MOV IMG_3383.MOV

I also used the Halfords brake cleaner, was the best thing I could find to shift it. I sprayed it on, left it for a few seconds and then rubbed it off with a cloth. Seemed to work better than any other methods I tried but still had to pick bits off with my nails . Think about whether you need to get every bit off. I spent ages on every panel, a lot of them were covered with carpet later on.....

https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=_21&product_id=793&car= One tip the factory gave me was not to cut the strip until the windscreen is fitted. It’s easy to cut it too short and the ends then flap up/don’t sit flat (Will make sense when you do it).

Absolutely brilliant, thanks for the reply (Most importantly I must remember to stop for a biscuit ).

Matt - do you have a blog at all the documents the process? I would be keen to tackle this over the winter months. Blacktop 2.0, I did a little research just need to get a parts list together and got stuck with turbo model and exhaust.

Frustratingly I had to stay in at work, just finished - sorry but I’m not going to be able to make it

Brill, I’ll definitely be there for 7:30

Hi Alan, what time is it please on Wednesday? I am working till 5 in Stockton but I can come straight from work.

I’m not 100% sure but I can’t imagine it being an issue. If you think about it the cap will be sealed upto a certain psi, as long as the pressure stays below that it makes no difference. It may also help with bleeding actually. Might be worth opening it up and topping up at the radiator. If there is an air lock at least your bleeding it at both ends. Not sure if it is safe to do so but if you could run the car with both open it may also help “burp” any airlocks out.

Cheers - drive home absolutely fine. I’ll likely replace the coil pack anyway as they are not expensive.

Thanks both, sounds like nothing will be logged by default. I’ve had a quick look under the bonnet and nothing obviously lose. Will check spark plugs as well as leads, I hope it’s just a one off.

Morning, On the way to work today doing 50mph the car started to lose power with noticeable change to engine noise - louder. Pulled over immediately and let the engine idle and it seemed OK. I was around a mile from work, oil pressure and temperature was fine; after a quick Rev I risked it to work and the remaining mile was uneventful It sounded to me like it was missing one cylinder, but that’s based on little experience. The whole episode lasted around 60 seconds and car is fine now. Any words of wisdom? I’m going to give the electrical side a look over the weekend specifically the injectors and coil pack connection. Any other areas of interest you think are worth investigating? Will the emerald k6 have logged any data of use? The car has done 1,500 fault free miles and it’s a Zetec Blacktop; it’s also been on the rollers and properly mapped around 1,000 miles ago. thanks! Dan

Brilliant thanks both. I was in two minds, cutting it is the way to go

Morning, I was wondering what people’s thoughts are on trimming the bellhousing at the bottom of my gearbox. The bellhousing is the lowest point on the car and there’s about 4cm below the chassis. It’s easy to catch over speed bumps and its a big flat chunk of metal, have other people trimmed it down so it’s flush? Im worried that I will keep catching it over speed bumps - which I have done a couple of times now, slow speed. But I am thinking is it better to catch that than potentially my lowered sump? What have other people done? I can get a pic later today if it helps. thanks Dan

Think I’ll take the coweling off and have a look. It was working perfectly and I recently fitted an immobiliser so guessing I have knocked something. The connector from GBS loom to the motor has always been very lose but I would thing if it was that end then the motor simply wouldn’t work. Same for a bad earth. Easy enough to inspect connectors and clean the switch contacts.

Oh and it’s the standard Sierra stalks from GBS that I have if that helps.

Afternoon, Horrible weather at the moment but I decided to take the car out with my new weather gear. Ive noticed the first wiper speed selection isn’t working, the other speeds are fine. Before I take the coweling off to take a look does it sound like a lose wire? I’ve read it could be a faulty relay but those symptoms seem to be only one speed setting so I guess not that. Hoping it’s an easy fix. thanks, Dan

Good advice, thanks. They do have a little screw in the ring I’ll check it tomorrow.

Spot on thanks, makes sense to me - I'll give it a go. From the side rail its 100mm, still too low but now I know how to adjust should be a doddle as long as I take my time. Hoping I can do it without C spanner as otherwise its another tool I need to buy

Hi, I've never adjusted suspension before, can anyone help? Car is on the road and handles fine. I have it booked in for a rolling road session in two weeks and they will also setup my geometry however at the moment the car is very low at the rear. From what I rear it should be 115 and 125 mm at the front bottom of chassis and 125 and 135mm at the rear, measured just in front of the rear wheel arch. Mine is way too low at the back at the rear its 65mm from the road to the floor pan (its a lowered floor pan). Am I measuring the correct point as per the attachment? What is the best way to adjust the shocks? I have the GAZ ones purchased from GBS and I did not get a C spanner with the kit I assume I need one? Should I adjust with the wheel still on or off? I want to get this done by a pro but I want to have it roughly correct before I take it in and an idea of where it should be as well. Thanks. Dan

V5 is here, car is already taxed so nothing left for me to do. Insurance sorted, Halfords for plates and the weathers looking good for my first drive out tonight

Well I just received a mail to say my registration docs are in the post, awesome news. I had a problem with the way the Invoice for my gearbox returb was worded but managed to work around that. I sent a postal order for 12 months tax and the application fee, I am planning on getting my plates printed as soon as I get the V5. What happens with the tax side? I assume the DVLA register it for tax on my behalf for the first year using the postal order? Thanks! Dan

Thanks, I spotted that earlier actually and for the price I decided to buy a whole new boss and adapter to match my wheel. I’ll replace the existing boss as there wasn’t much in it price wise.

Great idea, looks like I can get one for £40 as well: https://www.msar.co.uk/steering-spacers/bg-racing-steering-wheel-adaptor-momo-nardi-to-mountney-moto-lita.html You are probably right with the quick release it is a nice to have and an expensive one at £120.