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Alan_builder

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Alan_builder last won the day on March 7 2012

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About Alan_builder

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 02/22/1947

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B/04
  • Full name
    Alan Saunders

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hook, Hampshire, RG27 9DR

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  1. Alan_builder

    Gutted!

    Hello Lewis? Delia how do you know it's Lewis? Any way welcome to the board. So IVA will cost you £450 and £100 for a retest. If you can wait till after Christmas I will contact my local Hoodies and we can come visit, you will have to supply tea and hobnobs. My contacts and I are experienced at looking at RH cars and “finding fault” for IVA. While we can't guarantee a pass we know most of the problems. Can you put up pictures and a list of the items GBS identified. Give me a PM. Alan
  2. 240 BHP? I am sure 225BHP is OK on the stock engine. Please see and read the 6 links (I think) on tuning the Zetec which I link to on my web site. You can read for yourself and make your own judgment. From memory there is a problem in most installations with the sump. These get changed. Ford in there wisdom made a 2 part sump on the Blacktop so they could stiffen the sump walls and reduce vibrations in the block (Ford siad get a better ride). So use the original 2 part sump not the one from a Silvertop or an after market replacement. Get the pistons, conrods, crank shaft flywheel and clutch assembly balanced. I read the issue on power as being vibration not force. Many said don't rebore as you will loose the treatment to the cilinder walls.
  3. Hello again Simon, There are more engine codes in one of the Blue edition of the Haynes Manual 903 for the Sierra than there are in the Green edition which I posted from earlier. The 1.6L has LCS,LCT, LSD AND LSE The 2.0L has NES,NET, NRB, N4A and NAE The 1.8L has REB & RED The 1.3L has JCT All the engines are basically the same. The 205 block is stronger than the 20 block. The NRB and N4A are injection heads and have improved porting and increased valve size. The big difference in the manuals is the wiring. Get the wrong diagram and its hell. No 2B's are the same, I have 2x 2B/04 I have now cut and shut both chassis, one to take a V8 and the other for a Zetec. Prior to starting to modify Kitten for the Zetec the 2B/04 in Basingstoke was different, boot, firewall, leg length for starters. There is a rolling road in Slough and one in Reading I think. Not used either. Some builders fit the Sierra fuel tank, other options were a 20L or 40L in Stainless steel and of coutse there are composit ones as well. Distance between fillups is thus varied as is fuel consumption. My Pinto 2L EFi went further with the 40L SS tank than most others even 1.6L ones. The engine serial number is found between number 2 plug and exhaust fitting nut below the core plug. That makes it just in front of the engine mount and just up a bit. Have fun finding out. Will be home so give me a PM to arrange a visit date.
  4. Please read the Zetec tuning forums You can get to them via my web site. 190 BHP is fine as is from the standard engine internals, Change the cam may be required, dump the inlet and exhaust for top of the range kit with a half decent ecu and you are 185BHP min. You will need a new clutch, so 1.8 flywheel drilled for a pinto clutch and balanced. So save yourself lots of wonga or send it to me.
  5. Hello Simon, Welcome to the Board. I live in Hook so just down the road from you. Send me a PM if you want to pop round. 2L 1.6L engine differences, external none that you can see from the picture. Have a search on the pages here. I have a feeling the engine size is coded into the engine serial number as is the date of manufacture. I don't think there is a casting 2L or 1.6L on the side of the engine. The serial number is below the exhaust to the front on a machined ledge. The internals are different, head, valves, pistons and crank shaft. 1.6L engine code is LCS and 2L engine code is NET & NES. Your car looks like a sliding Pillar 2B. Kit available around the early 2000's.
  6. Hello and welcome, You say "no resistance to speak of in the ccts" Unless you measured that resistance by passing 100 amps you have fooled yourself. With only 12v to push the current the increase in resistance found by a bad connection when 100 amps flow is not found by a meter at 10mA. 0.01 ohms gives 1v drop at 100A which is about your cranking current. That's why Chris Brown said measure volts in several conditions. Making good earth connections to the starter motor body is essential. The starter solenoid connections could be corroded. The change from series to parallel wiring for cranking within the solenoid could be corroded. Some starters have a wire you can get to so you can measure the voltage at the starter windings. Lastly there are many starters with differing torques, obviously you need the high powered one not the one from a 1300. So worth a check on the part number. Good luck
  7. Hello, The rubber is a GBS product. 2" or 50mm wide. Thickness don't know for sure but about 1mm Cut after fitting to frame.
  8. What 2B chassis do you have? See my web for 2b/04
  9. Swirl pot Low pressure fuel pump. High pressure fuel pump if injection. Plumbing. Take a feed from the fuel tank to the low pressure fuel pump towards the top of the swirl pot. Take a feed from the swirl pot to the high pressure pump. Take the out out of the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Take the return from the pressure regulator to the swirl pot again near the top. Take an overflow from the top of the swirl pot to the return on the tank. If you have carbs, substitute High pressure pump tor a 2nd low pressure pump and the injection rail for the carb return and overflow. Just remember the swirl pot needs to be mounted like a sky scraper, small footprint and tall.
  10. Hi Danny Just fit a swirl pot.
  11. Hi GriffGriff, It's DIY. The 2B was made for the 2L pinto or some the DOHC. Some members may have patterns for engine mounts etc but which engine? See my web for the conversion of a 2B/04 from pinto to Zetec. All the new engines will give 150 BHP.
  12. Bob T pushes all the right buttons for me.
  13. PS I think we all have one of these for sale.
  14. When you select your fan for the other side of the radiator make sure you get a push fan not a pull fan. Don't just change the wiring, they only work 30% when wired wrong.
  15. Don't think you can tell diddly squat at the moment. I know what Florin is saying about fuses "sagging" nearly got the wrong word. I would not do that just yet. I gave up with Longborder's post, normally Nigel is on the money. What I would suggest is to do some temporary wiring. Wire a 20A ammeter in series with a 10A fuse in place of the fuse which blows from time to time. Now if the ammeter is the right way round or a center zero meter you can read the current flowing in the fuse. A 10A fuse will blow between 7A and 13A if you are lucky (depends on the type of fuse, the load characteristics and other factors). The way it fails (blows) Florin has described. So you need to see what the current is in each circuit and the total. The indicators will take between 5A and 7A, all depending on bulbs / lamps and the system and the battery voltage. So exercise the indicators last. If your standing current is below 10A just replace the fuse and look for a short. If the current is 9A to 15A then upgrade the fuse as Florin says. If you have bent the needle on your ammeter look for a short. What you most probably have is a short, an intermittent short, The wiring in an indicator light or chaffing on the wire. May be wiring to the speedometer or any other item.
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