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Alan_builder

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Everything posted by Alan_builder

  1. Hello Lewis? Delia how do you know it's Lewis? Any way welcome to the board. So IVA will cost you £450 and £100 for a retest. If you can wait till after Christmas I will contact my local Hoodies and we can come visit, you will have to supply tea and hobnobs. My contacts and I are experienced at looking at RH cars and “finding fault” for IVA. While we can't guarantee a pass we know most of the problems. Can you put up pictures and a list of the items GBS identified. Give me a PM. Alan
  2. 240 BHP? I am sure 225BHP is OK on the stock engine. Please see and read the 6 links (I think) on tuning the Zetec which I link to on my web site. You can read for yourself and make your own judgment. From memory there is a problem in most installations with the sump. These get changed. Ford in there wisdom made a 2 part sump on the Blacktop so they could stiffen the sump walls and reduce vibrations in the block (Ford siad get a better ride). So use the original 2 part sump not the one from a Silvertop or an after market replacement. Get the pistons, conrods, crank shaft flywheel and clutch assembly balanced. I read the issue on power as being vibration not force. Many said don't rebore as you will loose the treatment to the cilinder walls.
  3. Hello again Simon, There are more engine codes in one of the Blue edition of the Haynes Manual 903 for the Sierra than there are in the Green edition which I posted from earlier. The 1.6L has LCS,LCT, LSD AND LSE The 2.0L has NES,NET, NRB, N4A and NAE The 1.8L has REB & RED The 1.3L has JCT All the engines are basically the same. The 205 block is stronger than the 20 block. The NRB and N4A are injection heads and have improved porting and increased valve size. The big difference in the manuals is the wiring. Get the wrong diagram and its hell. No 2B's are the same, I have 2x 2B/04 I have now cut and shut both chassis, one to take a V8 and the other for a Zetec. Prior to starting to modify Kitten for the Zetec the 2B/04 in Basingstoke was different, boot, firewall, leg length for starters. There is a rolling road in Slough and one in Reading I think. Not used either. Some builders fit the Sierra fuel tank, other options were a 20L or 40L in Stainless steel and of coutse there are composit ones as well. Distance between fillups is thus varied as is fuel consumption. My Pinto 2L EFi went further with the 40L SS tank than most others even 1.6L ones. The engine serial number is found between number 2 plug and exhaust fitting nut below the core plug. That makes it just in front of the engine mount and just up a bit. Have fun finding out. Will be home so give me a PM to arrange a visit date.
  4. Please read the Zetec tuning forums You can get to them via my web site. 190 BHP is fine as is from the standard engine internals, Change the cam may be required, dump the inlet and exhaust for top of the range kit with a half decent ecu and you are 185BHP min. You will need a new clutch, so 1.8 flywheel drilled for a pinto clutch and balanced. So save yourself lots of wonga or send it to me.
  5. Hello Simon, Welcome to the Board. I live in Hook so just down the road from you. Send me a PM if you want to pop round. 2L 1.6L engine differences, external none that you can see from the picture. Have a search on the pages here. I have a feeling the engine size is coded into the engine serial number as is the date of manufacture. I don't think there is a casting 2L or 1.6L on the side of the engine. The serial number is below the exhaust to the front on a machined ledge. The internals are different, head, valves, pistons and crank shaft. 1.6L engine code is LCS and 2L engine code is NET & NES. Your car looks like a sliding Pillar 2B. Kit available around the early 2000's.
  6. Hello and welcome, You say "no resistance to speak of in the ccts" Unless you measured that resistance by passing 100 amps you have fooled yourself. With only 12v to push the current the increase in resistance found by a bad connection when 100 amps flow is not found by a meter at 10mA. 0.01 ohms gives 1v drop at 100A which is about your cranking current. That's why Chris Brown said measure volts in several conditions. Making good earth connections to the starter motor body is essential. The starter solenoid connections could be corroded. The change from series to parallel wiring for cranking within the solenoid could be corroded. Some starters have a wire you can get to so you can measure the voltage at the starter windings. Lastly there are many starters with differing torques, obviously you need the high powered one not the one from a 1300. So worth a check on the part number. Good luck
  7. Hello, The rubber is a GBS product. 2" or 50mm wide. Thickness don't know for sure but about 1mm Cut after fitting to frame.
  8. What 2B chassis do you have? See my web for 2b/04
  9. Swirl pot Low pressure fuel pump. High pressure fuel pump if injection. Plumbing. Take a feed from the fuel tank to the low pressure fuel pump towards the top of the swirl pot. Take a feed from the swirl pot to the high pressure pump. Take the out out of the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Take the return from the pressure regulator to the swirl pot again near the top. Take an overflow from the top of the swirl pot to the return on the tank. If you have carbs, substitute High pressure pump tor a 2nd low pressure pump and the injection rail for the carb return and overflow. Just remember the swirl pot needs to be mounted like a sky scraper, small footprint and tall.
  10. Hi Danny Just fit a swirl pot.
  11. Hi GriffGriff, It's DIY. The 2B was made for the 2L pinto or some the DOHC. Some members may have patterns for engine mounts etc but which engine? See my web for the conversion of a 2B/04 from pinto to Zetec. All the new engines will give 150 BHP.
  12. Bob T pushes all the right buttons for me.
  13. PS I think we all have one of these for sale.
  14. When you select your fan for the other side of the radiator make sure you get a push fan not a pull fan. Don't just change the wiring, they only work 30% when wired wrong.
  15. Don't think you can tell diddly squat at the moment. I know what Florin is saying about fuses "sagging" nearly got the wrong word. I would not do that just yet. I gave up with Longborder's post, normally Nigel is on the money. What I would suggest is to do some temporary wiring. Wire a 20A ammeter in series with a 10A fuse in place of the fuse which blows from time to time. Now if the ammeter is the right way round or a center zero meter you can read the current flowing in the fuse. A 10A fuse will blow between 7A and 13A if you are lucky (depends on the type of fuse, the load characteristics and other factors). The way it fails (blows) Florin has described. So you need to see what the current is in each circuit and the total. The indicators will take between 5A and 7A, all depending on bulbs / lamps and the system and the battery voltage. So exercise the indicators last. If your standing current is below 10A just replace the fuse and look for a short. If the current is 9A to 15A then upgrade the fuse as Florin says. If you have bent the needle on your ammeter look for a short. What you most probably have is a short, an intermittent short, The wiring in an indicator light or chaffing on the wire. May be wiring to the speedometer or any other item.
  16. If you are doing serious video editing you will run raid 0 accross 10 discs with the fastet CPU you can afford. Mac = £££££ Linus or Good old Win if you can't use linux.
  17. First I would say you can't. The emphasis is on you. I say this simply because you are asking. Your problem is an adj. resistors thing as you say won't do what you need. You need to turn for instance 1.2 v into 10.2v and 10.2v into 1.2v and a simple adjustable resistor wont do that. You need an amplifier in fact an inverting amplifier and some offset facility and may be some non linearization. Not that complicated if you are an analogue design engineer. To get the data empty your tank and fill it 1 liter at a time and note the voltage you get on the fuel sender when not connected to the fuel gauge. You will need to construct a graph. There may be a big flat section at the top or bottom of the graph, if so you need to adjust the float arm. Of course you now have to repeat the process. (At one time my float hit the tank!). So now you know how many liters your tank holds so you will need to turn a dummy sender (Adjustable resistor) in that number of increments. But first you need to deduce what voltage is full scale and what voltage is empty, the voltage where the dial first get to the end not when it is banged home by 0v or 12V. You will need to use a beefy low value potentiometer say 100 ohms. With your vernier angle gauge adjust the potentiometer in 50 steps for a 50 liter tank between the 2 voltages you found above. Now you can construct another graph. These 2 graphs determine the transfer function of the amplifier. Now any one of the gents who know more about diodes than myself, as well as myself, can design you your amplifier.
  18. Hello Mokum, I tried to post on your sump query but it failed! Any way I am sure the standard DOHC sump is steel. As you said aluminum it is an aftermarket one. Try Demon Tweeks or Rally design, Burton or Schuller engineering may be others. Things have tightened up a lot. VOSA our test stations won't test LHD cars, they are not proving the IVA service for foreign cars. You may do better to buy a newer used RH or GBS Zero as there has been a name change.
  19. Alan_builder

    Steering

    Hi Blue, Common problem. Now it would be an IVA failure. You will need to strip and re-manufacture some parts to triangulate things a lot better.
  20. Hi obecanobe Yes No Yes So now I have put my foot it, so I better help As said above the item is a variable resistor. One end goes to +12 the other end goes to 0V and the wiper is the signal to the gauge. So changing the 12V and the zero volts over will correct the full when empty. But On the Ford sender the 0v is manufactured to connect to the chassis. So If you change the 12v and 0v over you will connect 12 v to ground and the fuse will not like that. I cut mine up put the sensor over the other reconnected (and repositioned) to get the proper movement. PS you may need some padding resistors as well. So the easiest thing to do as you will be pulling the sensor out of the tank to modify it is to change it for the one supplied with the meter.
  21. Hi Darren, Most of the SS used on our kit cars has a plastic film top coat to protect it. That is why we only wash them with mild washing up liquid or spray window cleaner and don't polish them. Your first task is thus to find out if your SS is plastic coated or not!
  22. Was that going to collect your petrol cap left at Rouen? I seem to remember the + being 25. Now come on lads, give it to him in the face, opps Rod got it in the face, water that is. There are lots of variables with hoods and doors and surreys and mudguards fitted. In general the gull wings tend to give lift to the car and in the wet 60 may be all you will want to do. Again the gull wings tend to feed water up to the cockpit so the outside 1/3 of driver or passenger tend to get - wet - for want of a better word, water is chucked in ones face. I believe Peter and Rod both have gull wings, shame. I have my own design and the water stays outside, it is also easier to get in as the doors are longer. Hood and doors for me. I do remember stopping on the road to Rouen to put the top on and a fleet of 10 lorries came by. As you will know often the continental road has 2 ruts where the lorry wheels run. These tend to fill up with water, when it rains hard these ruts fill up between lorries in a convoy tailgating each other. Net result 10 lorries 10 cold showers, or should I say keel haulings. I came out nearly drowned and the car was full!
  23. Hi Zach, I have just had a look at your build pictures. There may be an optical illusion but it looks like you have 20 yes 20 degrees of toe out. Put 2 2m pieces of wood one on the Center height of each wheel, supported at each end. Have the bits of wood going forward from the back of the front wheels. Push the wood up to the front wheel tires ok but there may be a small gap, just do your best. Now measure the distance between the bits of wood at the end furthest from the car and check that the distance just in front of the car is the same. You can do some maths and work out what toe you have by taking the distance between your measurements and using sin / cos. Do get bits of wood that are not bent! If I am correct at 20 degrees toe out you may get skipping because one wheel gets too crosswise to the direction of travel. PS you can use a spirit level to check the wheels are upright, just mind the bulge in the tires at the bottom.
  24. I think that just knackers one edge of your tires and you have 2 steering wheel settings for st. on. I think you need to adjust the top to bottom position of your wishbone ball joints for the wheel. Top position back and or bottom position forward to increase self centering.
  25. Hi All, Both Hampshire County Council and Hampshire SNT (Police) agree, it's a scam. I sent a copy of the post to both. Hi Alan I have heard of something similar before. I think it is the classic case of the unscrupulous taking advantage of a genuine scheme. Some people will be entitled to free systems, but the qualifying criteria are pretty restrictive, so the majority of people will not qualify as you have rightly identified. Of course, these business take advantage of this to get people in and then try and sell to them. Do you happen to have any details for the business concerned? I imagine Trading Standards may already be aware, but all intelligence is useful. Regards Helen From: Neighbourhood Watch Sent: 30 August 2013 14:06 To: Woods, Helen (PBRS) Subject: New Scam? Hi Helen, I copied this from a social web site: the poster being Location:Merthyr Tydfil Just had a 'phone call and a very persuasive salesman telling me I can have free gas central heating all installed and supplied free, the same deal for double glazing, external wall insulation, (I don't have cavity walls), and lots more energy saving devices all free, all I have to do is pay £399 for a surveyor to come to the property, anyone else had this? Is it a con? All the ads for free boilers etc state you have to be on benefits which I'm not, been on the internet and all I qualify for is free external wall insulation and the survey is free. Chris. This looks like a £400 scam to me. Pay up front and easy to say your property is not suitable, thank you very much, and then it's a legal rip off? -- Regards
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