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LezLezLez

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About LezLezLez

  • Rank
    Builder

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Exmo
  • Full name
    Geoff Lezemore

Profile Information

  • Location
    Biddenden, Kent
  1. LezLezLez

    Vin stamp

    Hi Nick and Neil, I have an Exmo with similar pre-IVA status. I prefer not to spend £50 (quoted) to get my local garage to weld the new VIN characters onto my chassis member so I am down the path of buying steel strip from B&Q for about £5, then using my existing hand engraving tool with new diamond cutters and will do the engraving myself using a plastic stencil panel to raise the quality of my work. Then I have two welders - MIG and electric and will use one to weld the engraved strip along the Exmo chassis top rail. Then if the IVA test fails it, I will hope to argue my case. Fingers crossed for us both. Geoff.
  2. LezLezLez

    Seats

    Hi Jon, I am not an expert, but have skirmished with the DVLA over my own kit car build. I will repeat some stuff you may already know, but if it helps and you don't, have a look at these:-- https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2009/717/contents The Road Vehicles (Approval) Regulations 2009 M1_IVA_inspection_manual Veh Cat M1 as at 20-Jul-14 (may be a later version by now). Annex 3 - Seat Belt Anchorages Strength Assessment I am not aware of anything else that the IVA Test Examiner can use for reference. Hope that helps.
  3. LezLezLez

    V5

    Hi Neilo, Yes - interaction with DVLA is long and complex. I tried to win an argument with them seeking an age-based plate but have finally agreed with them it hs to be a Q plate. I used a website named "Resolva" who maintain they submit all correspondence to the correct target, government or otherwise. What finally convinced me was this website: www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1994/22/contents. Also I note that DVLA appears to handle the registration part, but DSA I understand will handle the IVA Test booking. Sadly I think I am going to be asked to pay £450 for the test. I wasn't expecting it to be so much. Good luck.
  4. LezLezLez

    IVA and Pinto.

    Hi Blue, You may find my experience helpful. I bought a failed-IVA Robin Hood Exmo a few years back with its official failure details. I set about fixing all the identified issues (that's another story!) and then applied to DVLA for a new IVA Test. First, I was told that DVLA deals with registration matters, and DSA handles Test appointments. The main thrust of advice from DVLA to me was that the Ford Sierra Pinto registration for which I hold the V5, is not valid. I tried many arguments with DVLA including application of the points system which one might argue yields excess points to support the carry forward of the 1984 registration number. After much (and polite) correspondence I sadly became convinced that the DVLA decision was correct when I came to inspect actual legislation viz "The registration of vehicles is covered by the Vehicle Excise and Registration Act (VERA) 1994 available at www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1994/22/contents." For me the deciding factor was that I cannot prove the 1984 vintage apart from having possession of the V5. I have no invoices or receipts from the original purchase of either the Sierra or the Exmo (I am at least the 3rd. owner). I only hve receipts from my own recent purchase of the failed IVA kit car. So, I think that's all I can do to answer your question. But if you feel you have other questions where my answers would help you, please say. Currently I am saving up my pennies to pay £450 for a new IVA test appointment, and expect to be issued with a Q-Plate. Good luck, LezLezLez.
  5. Hi Murray, You will be the decider if my comments are helpful:- I own a Robin Hood Exmo based on a Pinto 1.6l engine. I bought it about 3 years back at a low price as (a) it had failed its first and only IVA test with its third owner. (b) It came with the DVLA Reject document listing 21 separate faults requiring attention! I worked through these over the next 2 years and plan to submit for a retest this Spring. My comments are (1) make sure everything looks spick and span. I suspect that my car was of poor quality appearance which could well have caused the Examiner to apply a fine toothcomb approach! (2) notice that the 300pp IVA manual carries a number of "build specifications" such as "should be of reasonable construction ..." and other similar wording based on opinion. If you get the tester on the wrong footing, he/she might well apply a more stringent interpetation. so my suggestion, for you as well as me, is to not try and beat the test process or tester, but be open and upfront about your own interpretations or doubts. Then, if you or I am lucky, we might get away with a small list of provisionals, an easy correction, and a simple retest. I think to try and get through this very woolly document at first attempt might require a very high standard of build indeed. I wish you good luck. Geoff.
  6. LezLezLez

    Iva Prep

    Hi Rikos, You can of course download various IVA test manuals from the gov websites, but my offer to help is this - I too own an Exmo that has not yet passed its IVA test. I bought it about 2 years back after it had failed on about 20 minor points, mainly due in my view, to a poor standard of construction. I have pile of paperwork I acquired at purchase and could scan and forward the failure sheets which from memory list out the various boxes to be ticked i.e. not 300pp of manual but one or two A4 pages of things to check. Just ask if you want this, and perhaps send me your direct email or phone number somehow. I an an impecunious pensioner, and hope to submit my Exmo for IVA test later this year when I have the pennies. So perhaps we should keep in touch anyway. Regards, Geoff.
  7. LezLezLez

    Seats

    Hi Squashy76, I own a Robin Hood Exmo which never passed its IVA (I bought it as an unfinished project). It had failed its IVA on c. 20 specifics, none of which were to do with seat fixing. However the person I bought the car from subsequently said that the Tester had been interested in "proof" that the seat was fixed with appropriately strong bolts and that the flooring was similarly strong. Sadly, on my car only 3 of the bolts (for each seat) can be inspected from both sides. One is fixed into the area of the Sierra rear swing-arm suspension which is hidden. So, I will take this car for its IVA shortly with all 20 points resolved and hope that there is goodwill on the fact that only 3 of the fixing bolts can be proved. If I keep the car (unlikely) I would consider replacing the seat fixings with runners, but the points in this thread by others are very relevant.
  8. I have a Robin Hood Exmo and its windscreen shattered last week. (a) I need a replacement. Also this car has yet to be IVA'ed so compliance is a requirement. ( Does anyone have advice on IVA windscreen compliance? I see in the forums many contacts for glaziers who may be able to help. Also I have yet to contact GBS Spares but will do so next. All comments appreciated.
  9. LezLezLez

    Iva Questions

    Have a look at this - it might suit you. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/boot-for-m10-and-38-male-rod-ends Also I use CT1 as an excellent filler (takes 24 hours to fully set).
  10. Hi Guys, especially Dan Howell - I followed your suggestion, fitted M6 ring bolts top and bottom on each side, and put a limited length strap (polyester towing webbing held by multiple Jubilee Clips) between top/bottom so that (a) springs cannot shift out, and ( drop is limited beyond the point where the straps bite. The MOT tester saw that a formal solution had been adopted and passed the car. Great - and thanks again.
  11. Hi guys, you have asked for photos of my EXMO rear spring problem and these are attached. The upper light frame locating shield is in fact (I now see) made of light steel (not aluminium) and is fixed to the sloping rear "tub" panel by two small bolts for each side (4 in total N/S and O/S). I wonder if there might be some way of infilling the existing light frame shields with additional steel panelling / welding leaving a circular hole that would fit the rubber spring top (guessed at around 150mm ID). It would also be possible I think, to fit a locating strap of some sort down from the top framework shield, through the spring, and out through the 10mm (guessed) hole in the Sierra trailing suspension frame where the bottom of the spring sits. This should convince the Tester that the spring isn't going to drop out or relocate on the road. Also he would see that the positioning of the spring at the top would be much better constrained by the infilled steel panelling. What does anyone think? Is there a best way forward? Overall I suspect that the emotions of the Tester will be well satisfied when (a) he sees that a real effort has been made, and ( I tell him there are others on the road who have passed their MOT with the original low-grade location. I have small spring compressors so it should be possible to insert the compressed springs even when the upper locations are made more constrained. I look forward to your advice. LezLezLez. (PS I can only get 3 of 6 photos to upload, even at very small file sizes!!)
  12. My never-licenced EXMO went for a first MOT today and failed. Both rear springs at their upper ends sit within a very weak location boxing made of aluminium and bolted to the rear floor panel. This is so weak that if I jack up the body letting the rear suspension hang. I can manoeuvre each sping out without difficulty. This was picked up as a design(?) weakness by the Tester. I plan to insert some sort of plywood locating panel to each (probably within the existing alu panel) and bolt that to the floor. This should impress the Tester and persuade him to issue a Pass. But am I missing something? Am I missing upper locating kit from the original Sierra? Is there some better RH approach I don't have? Any confirmation or advice will be much appreciated.
  13. I support your view on the upper locating holes for Exmo front shocks and springs. I have today suffered a "Fail" on a previously un-MOTed Exmo. I will raise a separate note on that failure (rear springs top locating pads) but the kind tester also gave me an "advisory" on the front springs. When the car was raised on a body hoist with suspension x 4 hanging, the tops of the two front suspension points were (a) gapped and ( tending to foul the rear sides of the buttress. I agree - a weakness in design which should be fixed by all Exmo owners. Should someone / I write to GBS to let them know as they may wish to issue an advice note to all original purchasers (I am the 8th. owner of this particular Sierra!!)?
  14. Hi - the only thing I can add to is your suggestion for "glue". Last year I was introduced to a combination adhesive / filler / mastic called CT1 used in the building trade. It is only sold in normal sized cartridges and is sold in West Kent (only by Travis Perkins?). There are a variety of colours including "Clear". The product can be seen at: - . It doesn't run, can be used upon application for limited strength, or cures in about a day and is then really strong. I have used it in several places on my RH Exmo under (re-) construction and I see it as the best adhesive I have found and used personally over some 50 years of pottering on cars. (I still use Evostick for immediate high-strength non-filling low volume adhesive). I know it's from the building trade but it is new and I heartily recommend it. Cartridges cost about £11 and for car application, last a long time. If you want to smear CT1 with your fingers, use some sort of glove otherwise it gets transferred everywhere and is hard to remove. When cured it resembles a very hard rubber compound and can be cut or trimmed with a knife. Good luck.
  15. LezLezLez

    Oil Pressure Light

    I suggest you consider wiring the oil pressure warning function to some light other than Ignition. Leave Ignition for only that if you agree that this is the more likely and critical one to show. You have the gauge for oil pressure as well so the additional warning bulb less critical. I've got mine wired to its own warning light, but would have considered going in parallel with my handbrake warning light which also doubles with brake fluid low warning. I have never had a failure of brake fluid level but often of charge circuits,
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