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About LezLezLez

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    Geoff Lezemore

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    Biddenden, Kent
  1. Hi Murray, You will be the decider if my comments are helpful:- I own a Robin Hood Exmo based on a Pinto 1.6l engine. I bought it about 3 years back at a low price as (a) it had failed its first and only IVA test with its third owner. (b) It came with the DVLA Reject document listing 21 separate faults requiring attention! I worked through these over the next 2 years and plan to submit for a retest this Spring. My comments are (1) make sure everything looks spick and span. I suspect that my car was of poor quality appearance which could well have caused the Examiner to apply a fine toothcomb approach! (2) notice that the 300pp IVA manual carries a number of "build specifications" such as "should be of reasonable construction ..." and other similar wording based on opinion. If you get the tester on the wrong footing, he/she might well apply a more stringent interpetation. so my suggestion, for you as well as me, is to not try and beat the test process or tester, but be open and upfront about your own interpretations or doubts. Then, if you or I am lucky, we might get away with a small list of provisionals, an easy correction, and a simple retest. I think to try and get through this very woolly document at first attempt might require a very high standard of build indeed. I wish you good luck. Geoff.
  2. LezLezLez

    Iva Prep

    Hi Rikos, You can of course download various IVA test manuals from the gov websites, but my offer to help is this - I too own an Exmo that has not yet passed its IVA test. I bought it about 2 years back after it had failed on about 20 minor points, mainly due in my view, to a poor standard of construction. I have pile of paperwork I acquired at purchase and could scan and forward the failure sheets which from memory list out the various boxes to be ticked i.e. not 300pp of manual but one or two A4 pages of things to check. Just ask if you want this, and perhaps send me your direct email or phone number somehow. I an an impecunious pensioner, and hope to submit my Exmo for IVA test later this year when I have the pennies. So perhaps we should keep in touch anyway. Regards, Geoff.
  3. LezLezLez


    Hi Squashy76, I own a Robin Hood Exmo which never passed its IVA (I bought it as an unfinished project). It had failed its IVA on c. 20 specifics, none of which were to do with seat fixing. However the person I bought the car from subsequently said that the Tester had been interested in "proof" that the seat was fixed with appropriately strong bolts and that the flooring was similarly strong. Sadly, on my car only 3 of the bolts (for each seat) can be inspected from both sides. One is fixed into the area of the Sierra rear swing-arm suspension which is hidden. So, I will take this car for its IVA shortly with all 20 points resolved and hope that there is goodwill on the fact that only 3 of the fixing bolts can be proved. If I keep the car (unlikely) I would consider replacing the seat fixings with runners, but the points in this thread by others are very relevant.
  4. I have a Robin Hood Exmo and its windscreen shattered last week. (a) I need a replacement. Also this car has yet to be IVA'ed so compliance is a requirement. ( Does anyone have advice on IVA windscreen compliance? I see in the forums many contacts for glaziers who may be able to help. Also I have yet to contact GBS Spares but will do so next. All comments appreciated.
  5. LezLezLez

    Iva Questions

    Have a look at this - it might suit you. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/boot-for-m10-and-38-male-rod-ends Also I use CT1 as an excellent filler (takes 24 hours to fully set).
  6. Hi Guys, especially Dan Howell - I followed your suggestion, fitted M6 ring bolts top and bottom on each side, and put a limited length strap (polyester towing webbing held by multiple Jubilee Clips) between top/bottom so that (a) springs cannot shift out, and ( drop is limited beyond the point where the straps bite. The MOT tester saw that a formal solution had been adopted and passed the car. Great - and thanks again.
  7. Hi guys, you have asked for photos of my EXMO rear spring problem and these are attached. The upper light frame locating shield is in fact (I now see) made of light steel (not aluminium) and is fixed to the sloping rear "tub" panel by two small bolts for each side (4 in total N/S and O/S). I wonder if there might be some way of infilling the existing light frame shields with additional steel panelling / welding leaving a circular hole that would fit the rubber spring top (guessed at around 150mm ID). It would also be possible I think, to fit a locating strap of some sort down from the top framework shield, through the spring, and out through the 10mm (guessed) hole in the Sierra trailing suspension frame where the bottom of the spring sits. This should convince the Tester that the spring isn't going to drop out or relocate on the road. Also he would see that the positioning of the spring at the top would be much better constrained by the infilled steel panelling. What does anyone think? Is there a best way forward? Overall I suspect that the emotions of the Tester will be well satisfied when (a) he sees that a real effort has been made, and ( I tell him there are others on the road who have passed their MOT with the original low-grade location. I have small spring compressors so it should be possible to insert the compressed springs even when the upper locations are made more constrained. I look forward to your advice. LezLezLez. (PS I can only get 3 of 6 photos to upload, even at very small file sizes!!)
  8. My never-licenced EXMO went for a first MOT today and failed. Both rear springs at their upper ends sit within a very weak location boxing made of aluminium and bolted to the rear floor panel. This is so weak that if I jack up the body letting the rear suspension hang. I can manoeuvre each sping out without difficulty. This was picked up as a design(?) weakness by the Tester. I plan to insert some sort of plywood locating panel to each (probably within the existing alu panel) and bolt that to the floor. This should impress the Tester and persuade him to issue a Pass. But am I missing something? Am I missing upper locating kit from the original Sierra? Is there some better RH approach I don't have? Any confirmation or advice will be much appreciated.
  9. I support your view on the upper locating holes for Exmo front shocks and springs. I have today suffered a "Fail" on a previously un-MOTed Exmo. I will raise a separate note on that failure (rear springs top locating pads) but the kind tester also gave me an "advisory" on the front springs. When the car was raised on a body hoist with suspension x 4 hanging, the tops of the two front suspension points were (a) gapped and ( tending to foul the rear sides of the buttress. I agree - a weakness in design which should be fixed by all Exmo owners. Should someone / I write to GBS to let them know as they may wish to issue an advice note to all original purchasers (I am the 8th. owner of this particular Sierra!!)?
  10. Hi - the only thing I can add to is your suggestion for "glue". Last year I was introduced to a combination adhesive / filler / mastic called CT1 used in the building trade. It is only sold in normal sized cartridges and is sold in West Kent (only by Travis Perkins?). There are a variety of colours including "Clear". The product can be seen at: - . It doesn't run, can be used upon application for limited strength, or cures in about a day and is then really strong. I have used it in several places on my RH Exmo under (re-) construction and I see it as the best adhesive I have found and used personally over some 50 years of pottering on cars. (I still use Evostick for immediate high-strength non-filling low volume adhesive). I know it's from the building trade but it is new and I heartily recommend it. Cartridges cost about £11 and for car application, last a long time. If you want to smear CT1 with your fingers, use some sort of glove otherwise it gets transferred everywhere and is hard to remove. When cured it resembles a very hard rubber compound and can be cut or trimmed with a knife. Good luck.
  11. LezLezLez

    Oil Pressure Light

    I suggest you consider wiring the oil pressure warning function to some light other than Ignition. Leave Ignition for only that if you agree that this is the more likely and critical one to show. You have the gauge for oil pressure as well so the additional warning bulb less critical. I've got mine wired to its own warning light, but would have considered going in parallel with my handbrake warning light which also doubles with brake fluid low warning. I have never had a failure of brake fluid level but often of charge circuits,
  12. Ian, Carole - thanks for input re non two-speed wiper motor. Based on your advice I dismantled the wiper set up and indeed this motor has only two wires to the armature. I will now source a 2-speed motor. Hopefully the re-assemble deep under the scuttle will not be too bad. I will rewire from switch to motor to make sure cabling is correct. Repeated thanks to Longboarder for target circuitry which appears to be 100% correct. I am going off looms. This is my second kit car in 15 years and both had major colour coding circuitry issues, mostly involving wires having different colours at two ends. May be my lack of information on additional components such as fuse box, relays, etc. etc. Perhaps I'll build one from scratch next time!!! Thanks for your info. and contact. LezLezLez
  13. Hi all, can you please offer more advice on how to move forward (my IVA failed Exmo Sierra wiper needs two speeds, not one). I have attached a photo of the motor. My guess is that this a Sierra motor but could someone please confirm? In the photo the wiring inwards at top is wrongly coloured. I have partially traced my loom and found where the wires/colours were changed. Anyway they do not directly match the column switch but your diagram, Longboarder, seems to be my corrrect target. There are only 4 ex 5 motor connector pins used and a voltmeter does not match them all to the column pins! Pin #3 is vacant, empty, #1 is earth, so that leaves only 3 wires which currently deliver park and slow functions. So, my best view of a next question is to match the Longboarder circuit diagram to my actual motor. In the photo there are only 2 internal wires within the motor visible - red and blue. How do these map to motor plug pin numbers 2, 4, 5? Are the internal park wires hidden behind the plastic connector body which appears to be fixed to the motor casing? Or perhaps I wil just have to rewire 3 wires from the column to the motor socket - if it must be 4, then why is the motor pin #3 empty? If I have to do a "dismantle" so be it but the motor and loom are buried well under and back from the scuttle so if this could be avoided it would be best. My guess is that the connection of the wiper linkage to the internal thrust wheel will make the whole dismantle / reassemble a nightmare. Your comments will continue to be much appreciated. LezLezLez
  14. Update from 17-May-15. Wipers and switch wiring sighted. Motor wires do not appear match Haynes or Old Stager. Switch wires are OK. Will need to check individual circuits next. I am now suspicious of looms - one colour in might not be the same colour out, for the same circuit based on past experience!!! Will report later this month.
  15. Hi, I own a RH Exmo which was submitted for an IVA test which it failed. I have the logbook for it - a 1984 Sierra as donor. However when I approached the DVLA (VOSA) some months back the car is not "open" online for SORN etc. It looks as though the authorities must have a marker on the record as "Not Complete / Not recently licensed" or similar. It must have been licensed in 1984 et seq but today appears it must go through the IVA process. I did write but VOSA said informally (?) that the car almost certainly needed an IVA - but they would say that wouldn't they? So my plan is to approach DVLA shortly (right department) to see what I should do. My guess is that it will need an IVA and will have to go through the process before I can licence and then tax the car, hopefully still on its 1984 plate which is on the car. Good luck. Geoff.
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