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2b cruising

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Everything posted by 2b cruising

  1. As above. It looks home made and I wouldn't use it to mount a food blender to a worktop. Re-design by someone who knows what they are doing is required there. Remember:- always safety first.
  2. Erm, not quite. The shape of the scoop in the blades determines which way it is supposed to spin to do its job efficiently. That's why your fan is designed to pull air through the rad, not push as it is shown.
  3. How close to original are your engine and box mounts. If ok a shock absorber from engine top or bottom to chassis could help emmensly.
  4. 2b cruising

    Rally Events

    Did last years Bucket and spoon run. August I think. Our small entry was organised by Al Milton. Thanks again Al. Unknown start at the moment taking a tour through Kent and ending in Ramsgate. 600+ vehicles last year. Proceeds to,charity. Nice Monty Carlo style plaque issued to all attendants. Mine is on the workshop door as a fond memory. Lovely day out.
  5. Pronounced "jimpy". There is possibly a date stamp somewhere, usually around the Wally Duncan stamp area. This could possibly help on finding the type of weapon it was issued with. I would think Lee Enfield or Browning era.
  6. The spoon was for feeding very small amounts of oil into the sliding parts grooves. They helped get the oil where it was needed without over lubricating.
  7. We used to have those in our gun kits filled with oil for our 4x2 wadding. Very early ones brass, newer ones 70s onwards probably earlier than that they changed to black plastic. The arrow is the mod crows foot known as the Wally Duncan stamp. As big as 18mm probably means they were for larger guns, i.e. .50" Browning etc. This is not absolutely 100'/, fact though but an educated guess.
  8. Nice project Jaimo. Should be plenary big enough, especially if you work tidily and clean up after jobs. About the ply board. Yes Florin got it right. However if there is plea to of damp about, use marine ply to stop it blowing. Happy new year mate.
  9. Blooming eco peter, where did you put the bed in the end.
  10. Thanks for your kind words in my other post Terry. Early 1980 something I smashed my right knee in several places. It was my right knee and like yourself I had lots of pins and even some windlassing to keep it all together. A couple of years ago I had to have a complete left knee replacement. I was in the army at the time so recouperation was Mage important. Three month of work, loads of physio put me back on light duties. 4 months all pins taken out 12 months back to four miles a day running after starting of with just a few yards walk and then a very slow and gentle hundred yards jogging get. I ended up back on 15 milers a couple of times a week. On top of taking the rest of the workshops for their pt, I always finished off with a couple of miles at my own pace. My broken knee is still holding out with absolutely no faults or pain. Don't give in Terry and do every bit of physio you are asked to do. I was back on my feet, running and kneeling down within 3 months. I was fortunate enough to know,the importance of the physio whereas the neighbour across the road from me was still hobbling around after 12 months. All the very best young man and I hope your recovery is relatively easy on the pain for you. I have plenary of moresomthing if you want it. Nasty stuff though if you use it to much and for too long. That's why I have lots of it to take back to the doctors. If you can avoid Trammadol, do so as that is what gets me in a mucking fuddle on here sometimes. Regards to yourself and all your family, Ken.
  11. Remove panels, remove current nuts and use stainless type. A good welder should be able to tack outer rim of nuts to chassis without getting weld protruding the original rim depth.
  12. If you cover it you will definitely need it venting. If no air flow from underneath it will definitely get damp and stay that way This also goes for complete car covers. Take them of on some dry days to air your cars soft furnishings.
  13. Good initiative Dan. No leaks with those.
  14. What size battery do you have amps wise. Small amp batteries can recharge very quickly. Check the voltage before you charge. Check your body earth and wiring to lights connections.
  15. 2b cruising

    Rev Counter

    Couple of things to check first. Sneaky gauze filter in the tank on the end of the sender until Horrible small filter fitted before high pressure pump in fuel line. Both can lead to problems, especially the small line filter.
  16. 2b cruising

    Rev Counter

    I had a starting problem with my 2b after working under dash. After spending many many hours trying to trace the fault I found a spare hidden switch. Flicked it over and my car started immediately. I was not told of the home made hidden immobiliser when I naught the car from a guy in Leeds.
  17. Steamer has a v8 in his hood. He has done a build blog so check that out.
  18. Like Bob, I have the flight gauges. No misting problems as yet and I would be disappointed if the do. As far as heating goes, you would be surprised how much heat comes,through the fire wall joints and holes. If you drive faster you might get them to clear faster. You also might also end up with a few heavy fines and some nice co-op dividend point on your licence as well.
  19. An experienced second pair of eyes is never a bad thing. Good luck with your,test,and hope you get through favourably.
  20. You will need much more than 1" of base. Don't use a strong mix or as in metal, the harder it is, the more brittle it will be. This means it will crack the first time you drive over it. All the more so if you are laying it on compacted earth and clippings. Don't use dry mix hoping it will set itself. This is ok if you are planting fence posts, or filling paving slab joints after the foundations have set. In your case it could take days to set and the gravel in the mix would probably all sink to the bottom of your mix. If it rains on it when still dry, it will be a right mess. Don't lay concrete when it is frosty. For a lasting and successful job you will need around a 4" depth, especially at the thin end of the wedge. If possible bury some small plates across the slope so they will come up around half way up the depth of the concrete. This will help to stop the concret sliding before it sets. More importantly it will stop any movement in your ramp in the years to come. Keeping the ramp where it should be and meeting the garage joint. Steel mesh can be used but still make sure some of it is planted bellow the bottom level of the concrete by bending single ends of the mesh down. This will also stop any stress cracking. When mixing the concrete use as little water as you can but mix it very well. This speeds drying time, and stops puddling on the top serfaces which will lead to the top breaking up. MIX VERY WELL AND EVENLY. Hire a mixer if you can as this is going to be a bigger job than you first thought. Tamper the concrete to get it to the level you want and leave a rough surface. Smooth concrete has very little grip when wet. Same as any engineering job, preparation and planning is what will give you a good and lasting finish. Appologise to Steve and Bob for seeming blunt. No insult intended to either and I hope I have not hurt your feelings at all. Good luck with the ramp project, and sooner you than me. It hurts when done by hand. I mean really hurts. On the other hand Nelmo, you could end up like Charles Atlas.
  21. Tried sending photo's several times today time but it appears I have your address wrong. I have checked it several,times and it has been as you wrote it. PM sent to you.
  22. 2b cruising

    Which Donor Car

    If it WAS a 2b DOHC originally, your fibreglass panels would have been purple. If you have a different colour body now, check inside serfaces inside the wings or nose cone. These should show signs of the original colour. If it was not originally a DOHC, sorry but I can't help you finding what the original engine was. If however the chassis number is from the doner car,( highly unlikely but possible) you would be able to trace originality through Fords. If you are running a zetec, I would have thought a zetec engine manual and a Sierra manual of the doner age would suffice. If on date related plate, I think the reg number should be the same age as the doner car. Can't swear to that though.
  23. Empty bottle of scotch having finished emptying on there way to whichever graveyard they end up in. This could of course involve any other innocent parties of course. It used to be terrifying trying to repair hgv's n the hard shoulder of the motorway even on clear days. Any sign of fog I used to chicken out and let the recovery company make a bit more money. Then complete the repair in the nice warm and dry workshop.
  24. GBS themselves repaired my car year before last. Rear panel was salvaged without damage. Both rear wings were replaced Originals were full grip. They do have a radius where they are fitted to the rear panel. The figment to the rear panel is under the wings with Silkoflexed type solution, then riveted through the fold on the rear panel. This also goes wher the wing follows the route of the side upper die. At the bottom of the wing the wing folds outward to meet the lower side panel where silkofix or similar has been used and around 4 pop rivets. Overall the job is a good one and you can order any colour you like so no painting required on top of the gel coat. If you would like some photoes, please pm me with your email address as I have difficulty posting photoes on here using my iPad. Regards Ken.
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