wowblaauw

Should have put Quaife ATB innards... The unit is now back together - with a large shout and thank you to the author (Rich I think according to Nelmo) of the last three RHOCAR magazine editions covering this particular subject, was a great help - with i think the correct backlash but will have to wait and see as I'm waiting on DRD racing from my half shafts, uprights, hub carrier, new bearings and wheel flange - going for a complete rear end re-build. 

If you’re still after the cowling, I found the set on Sunday and then promptly lost the bottom half after a massive clear up. Happily go on the hunt again...

Can’t believe it, the mc from GBS had a failed reservoir seal! Bought some M10 x 1 female to M10 x 1.25 male adaptors and am going to fit the fiat 124 MC with remote reservoir - sometimes the original thought process should be followed and not allowing one to be persuaded to go back to the original...

Happy days, feels great when you get there. 
For mine, it was closing the terminals in the fuse box so the relays were tight when fitted. It was purely by accident that I discovered the issue. I had wired the relay to earth directly which cleared the misfire but when it was running I accidentally nudged the relay and the fault replicated. Removed the direct to earth and fiddled, voila! Fixed

Hey all, I’m sure this issue has now been sorted but thought it worthwhile to give an over view of my electrical nightmare a couple of years ago. 
having allowed myself to be talked into buying the GBS plug and play loom to give the Zero better electrical reliability, I stripped the car and ran my newly acquired GBS loom to replace my home made jobbie complete with emerald and engine bay loom.

First thing, bad earths, my fault, in my xenophobic attitude to be a beautifully clean job, I’d forgotten to earth properly.

Second thing, I had what Daniel had, a flipping misfire - mine was under load. At first, brilliant but then the misfire started and became worse to the point of refusing to start. Like Daniel, I replaced the entire HT circuit, coil pack, plugs, leads, crank sensor with new. At this stage the car was 3 years old and had covered 1100 miles...

after 7 months!! Yup, 7 months right up to July if that year, I found the issue more by chance than anything. Having gone through pretty much point for point as Daniel, mine was found to be the ignition relay losing connection under load. Cranking the engine, I had spark, fuel, in fact everything was perfect. Plug in the coil pack and it failed. One quick twist of a screw driver and fault fixed - I could not believe it at first as the relief was overwhelming. Just goes to show that when the manufacturer says that these things are fully tested, I believe them that they are right and in this case they were, but under load...

Thirdly, I replaced my fuel lines and changed the fuel filters. And, yup, I started to get a misfire around 30 miles later. Actually it was after a car and coffee meet at GBS a couple of years ago. Got there ok but on way home started running badly and I mean it would just stop, symptom slightly different in so much that the misfire was definitely fuel starvation or so it seemed at the time. Turned out that the fuel filter - new sytec had an incorrect filter and starved the engine of fuel. 

happily, once one gets over the initial Fix and gets some mileage, those woes eventually disappear.

Good luck with it all Daniel, sounds like finally you have a resolve, keep believing.

Cheers and for my next tome... turbo!

Well, I did order a Fiat 124 and then realised that I’d have to change the fittings from 10 x 1 to 1.25! Any how, bought a new Sierra mc from GBS in the mean time while I make some new lines with the correct fiat fittings.

Great stuff and thanks - will have to wait until the weekend now. Thanks to all responders, I’ll update in due course.

New fluid on way for take 4

Thanks again chaps

Craig

Thanks, that’s a great idea, thanks, I’ll give a try next time. 

So, my trusty Sierra MC had corroded and had a score to  the primary end of the MC. So out with the old and in with a new collected from GBS.
Now bleeding with Gunsons ezibleed! 
while I realise that it is best to bleed the MC on the bench, I decided due to space and not wanting brake fluid every where that I install and bleed in the car. Well I’ve now put a litre through, lots of air out and have a peddle which goes all the way to the floor. While I know there is a marmite attitude to these one man bleed systems I don’t have a choice - it has to be a one man job. As such is there a specific way in which this should be approached? I’m bleeding off side rear, near side rear, near side front and lastly offside front. As mentioned I put a litre through it yesterday and had clear fluid no bubbles.L but peddle all the way to the floor.

in light of above, just wondered if there was anything I was doing wrong.

Cheers

Craig

...and it’s off. Now for the interesting bit and that’s building the diff back with new quaife Lsd innards. 

Thanks very much for suggestions. Seems that the map should work, trigger wheel requires the crank sensor alignment tool to properly set up timing. Anyone have access to this or how to obtain one, would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers

Craig

Hello and thank you to all responders. I’ll get back into the garage tonight to see what’s occurring. Thank you so much for your suggestions, gratefully received.

MC was not stripped as only 1028 miles from new. That said, I’m not ruling it out for replacement. 

Im fairly sure I have a return spring on the peddle but can’t quite remember - it’s an age thing...

It’s what the happy people at hispec said about the bottom screws, many thanks for the clarification though - experience tells me that it’s a bit of pot luck with getting the correct information out of them - thanks 

I’ll check and come back with findings.

Cheers

Craig

Interestingly having just spoken with Hispec, they tell me that the standard fitting is a banjo as I have. However, the chap did say that it wouldn't matter if I had a standard 10 x 1mm fitting either so a bit miffed you could say. 

So, when bleeding the brakes I use the Gunson kit and put 20 lbs of pressure through the system to check for leaks. I have no leaks. I bleed all four corners, the fronts from the inside out and the rears tops and then bottoms although the chap from Hispec says only the tops need bleeding.

Any one have any ideas as to why I have no brake pedal despite having new 4 pot fronts and new 2 pot rears with new flexi hoses front and back with no leaks?

Currently I have put 1.5 litres through the system to flush out all of the old fluid. Following each bleed of all four corners I try the peddle which feels good. After several pumps, the brake pedal just sticks all the way and does not return giving me no pedal.

Cheers

Craig

Hi All,

having fitted new rear 2 pot hi spec Iva brakes I have struggled to get a peddle.

My front hi spec 4 pots use banjo type fitment for the flexi hose, I used the same set up for the rears. I had M16 rears and although not great always stopped the car.

I suspect that the rears are a standard hose fitment but can’t for the life of me find a resource from hispec which confirms this.

Any info would be gratefully received - talking to hispec is usually a waste of time...

Thanks again in advance

Craig

Hi Paul, many thanks for the info. Actually, I popped an email over to ME yesterday. My friend was hoping for something this weekend. Anyhow, the Big Bang engine came from moto gp engines back in the day whereby the engine fires all 4 cylinders in quick succession or at the same time as opposed to in regular formation. Gives best of high torq and high power I.e. big 2 cylinder 4 stroke for torq and in-line 4 cylinder for power. Makes the engine vibrate which is a bit word at first... anyhow, the r1 engines iTB’s are being used for this installation.

Cheers

Craig

Hi all,

A friend of mine has a superspec and has dropped in a duratec 2.0l with a ME221 Ecu. Seems he’s been provided with a base map for a Zetec, hmm. 

Any of you out there have a similar setup base map for a duratec? 

He’s also running R1 Big Bang iTB,s

thanks in advance,

Craig

All,

I have a pal who bought these plates in error

He’s looking for £350 ONO

Any questions, please do not hesitate to get in touch.

Cheers

Craig

I have a spare - did 600 miles but has collected some surface rust. Yours for £50 plus ship

I can honestly say that I have pulled my garage apart trying to find this part for you.Am very sorry to have built your hopes up. It will probably turn up now that I'm no longer searching. 

Sierrarus in Manchester are your best bet.

Regards, Craig

Ah, that all makes sense, much like not knowing my right from left...

I'll get the scaffold pole out again and see how we get on.

Thanks guys, very much. I’ll lock the pinion and give it a go. 

Actually I have a spare polo rad £15 collected or plus delivery

Hi All,

Having a bit of a mare stripping down my spare Sierra 7" diff. Having already removed the flange nut and flange from the pinion shaft I am having bother in removing the pinion shaft nut. can anyone tell me whether the nut is a right hand or a left hand thread before I get the big guns on the job? I have managed to move the nut by 1 cm as if it is a right hand threaded nut turning it anti clockwise to move it. I have referred to the Ford maintenance notes which say to remove the pinion nut, the nut must be locked into place with their holding tool which I do not have. Once locked the manual says to turn the pinion anti-clockwise lending it to be a right hand thread. I am a little confused by this but if anyone can shed any light, I would be most grateful.

thanks in advance

Craig

Kitspares.co.uk

Here you go pal, one on ebay

eBay listing number: 124265756054

Cheers

Craig