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Everything posted by Turboz

  1. Woah that's some serious torque at low revs I'm guessing it's not a centrifugal supercharger then is it a roots or twin scroll. I'm not making that torque till 5500 rpm even with a turbo (obviously designed to hit Max boost at 8500 rpm) Live axles aren't the best for putting power down but there's still a lot to adjust that could help
  2. If your struggling for grip under 300bhp with pilot sport 3 you need to have a serious look at suspension geometry possibly new suspension and your diff if it's an old Sierra lsd it will need a rebuild if it's open diff go for a plated locking diff.
  3. I'm up for that any of those dates work for me.
  4. I was hoping for 10s myself, but I didn't account for the grip of a sticky track and hot slicks (hence the diff exploding) I may try again this summer now I have a 9inch cosworth diff May need a wheelie bar though.
  5. If you do go to the drag strip make sure you have a full cage or you will be banned if you run a sub 12 seconds. Its also very harsh on your drive line I killed my 7.5" lsd shifting from 1st to 2nd and dropped oil on the track, I wasn't the most popular guy there let me tell you. It did wheelie off the line witch was also unexpected.
  6. At 280 you'll be twisting the crank as well as snapping con rods. Hope it does hold up for you there's nothing worse than sending a rod through the block. As for putting the power down you'll be fine with a plated lsd (I can't get on with a torque bias diff like quafe atb) and some sticky tyres like r888's. I've had to swap to Sierra 9" diff with wave track lsd as the 7.5" diff is only good for around 500bhp had to chop the rear end up to fit the thing in though.
  7. How much stronger though 5-10% ? Nothing like the 75% gain they have made, I'd be looking for aftermarket, it's easy to obtain con rods rated at 250 bhp per rod nowadays.
  8. Hi guys some serious numbers there, are you running forged internals, when I was running running a 205 bhp on a new zetec black top (naturally aspirated) I noticed a drop in power over time, did a compression test found it to be down, it turned out to be 2 bent con rods. I think anything over 180 bhp starts to bend them it's only a matter of time on standard internals.
  9. Hi there a few questions. what engine what size injectors what boost are you aiming for
  10. Are you running an aftermarket ecu if so you don't need the maf sensor it only helps get that last 5% fuel economy that's all, tps and air temp alone are fine.
  11. hi all i saw a test a wile back on oil filter flow restriction / pressure drop and all of the budget filters wix, plue print, fram ext... did really bad pressure was way down. k&n were near the top and still affordable.
  12. That looks more like it, thanks mate. Cooling shouldn't be a problem I'm using the same radiator as in my car a custom 5 row aluminum jobbie it keeps my s2000 turbo engine cool.
  13. Oh I didn't mean a DIY job but by a professional prop builder but still it doesn't seem right ?
  14. I've just read that you can weld a front chain ring / sprocket to the front end of the prop shaft but that sounds a bit of a bodge job ?
  15. I've seen chain driven radicals but that's because the engine's in the back next to the rear axel.
  16. Hi guys after just finishing my first zero my brother wants me to build him one and insists on going bike engine as I have lots of spare engine's for my busa drag bike, however how do people connect the bike engine output shaft to the prop shaft. I've looked at lots of engine bay pics but just can't tell ?
  17. They should just give the to you also get the thin ones to so you can can set a little toe in and camber.
  18. Nitrile better chem resistance and loads tougher !
  19. Turboz

    Which Amp Gauge

    Top man for going amperes I have one on my bsa Amps tell you much more than volts what the car is using and what your alternator is doing.... Can be tricky to wire up but loads of diagrams on the webby to help.
  20. I fully intend to trailer to the track as I've just brought a race shuttle and I know that I'll never get back what I've put into it but I was thinking of road registering it then stripping it back to track spec untill I sell it in a couple of years time.
  21. Hi guys I'm on the rolling road tomorrow and can't wait... I was always going to make the car track only but I'm wondering now if it's worth putting on the road for a better re-sale in the future or would I not be worth the potential gain in the future ? I already have a Sunday car so I'm not to bothered about driving it on the road.
  22. There are loads of ultrasonic cleaners on ebay for less money i brought a cheep one just for injectors you'd be supprised at the dirt that comes out of them. Oh yeah works amazing on jewellery too....
  23. Oh no that sounds a *bleep* load of money for a kit guys you could buy an actual Ferrari for half that money and then you haven't got a car build buy some random amateur in his shed (who will no doubt be claiming he's an Aero space engineer)
  24. It will definitely help the cars handling but really fine tuning is mainly for the track as it doesn't last long, springs start the settle/distort after just 100 miles of racing all serious race teams will have a set of scales and do it before every session.
  25. Sound good if weathers good I'll take the zero shame tho I'm not on the rolling road till a few days after this event.
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